tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7263896563340734902024-03-27T17:52:05.907-07:00Nomad's TravelsA chronicle of Nomad's exploration of our planet under sail Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger48125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-11922274568865070222023-03-29T19:30:00.005-07:002023-03-29T19:30:59.779-07:00A decidedly un-nomadic few years is over with<p> </p><!--StartFragment-->
<p class="MsoNormal">The last blog post is dated at the end of 2019 so I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>am more than a little<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>overdue for an update. There were no
traveling<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>stories to tell for the pandemic<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>times, then I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>got too busy to write when the traveling<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>life resumed.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI3Ej9dES-oM9hmry5fnfcXuw9moM30VdoesGmIrNv5YqSS-gxGCtltojwvBKkJrw-jMWJVoF9mhxw5e7iOcT1wo7nKYSWtA8hnbi8qUJ-ALPNzsRDbZEvj4QnakNmsBx7NgjlC1VV3FDk5lk31B87l_ub0VdRrtSNdH-Hrkwh1zCUDuH2jtp9h8W2zA/s4160/IMG_20200301_142936860_050034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI3Ej9dES-oM9hmry5fnfcXuw9moM30VdoesGmIrNv5YqSS-gxGCtltojwvBKkJrw-jMWJVoF9mhxw5e7iOcT1wo7nKYSWtA8hnbi8qUJ-ALPNzsRDbZEvj4QnakNmsBx7NgjlC1VV3FDk5lk31B87l_ub0VdRrtSNdH-Hrkwh1zCUDuH2jtp9h8W2zA/s320/IMG_20200301_142936860_050034.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad departing Suriname.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6y854Xt3daJLJXrLxfP4el6f3drGgTX42by8pLdUiUR5dybINTqhxqLuVrqf8ZGaKbpKhd6akAxbQ2WJxHVHH3f_nSmKqd9lHzX0iwIs9oBGL9QOC91v7rFK0-EsRQ3XzGi3s_E6jMIkICrr8LslKQOsDIltkd5PmjQYi2UAXuF_w27ECv1BhYm1Rw/s4160/IMG_20200205_123651782_050734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6y854Xt3daJLJXrLxfP4el6f3drGgTX42by8pLdUiUR5dybINTqhxqLuVrqf8ZGaKbpKhd6akAxbQ2WJxHVHH3f_nSmKqd9lHzX0iwIs9oBGL9QOC91v7rFK0-EsRQ3XzGi3s_E6jMIkICrr8LslKQOsDIltkd5PmjQYi2UAXuF_w27ECv1BhYm1Rw/s320/IMG_20200205_123651782_050734.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch break while biking near Domburg.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">With Nomad safely<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>moored in Domburg I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>went to the
USA<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to do some jobs and catch up with
family and friends, returning<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>on the
first day of 2020. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few months were
spent doing maintenance, meeting up with friends and touring the Suriname river.
With my three month tourist visa expiring at the end of March it was time to
move on. I decided on Martinique<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>as the
next port of call to meet up with my friends on Fai Tira and find a boatyard<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to haul out for a bottom painting before
heading north in the springtime. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
an uneventful<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>six hundred miles to the
anchorage<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>at St Anne's. Little did I
know that this would be Nomad's last sail for nearly two years!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxqmm115TAb5MUhERomrGGcn6bECh1YUEl1ZowJg9mHz4mglHsSuBlygDjxXkrKuNGGUIpVCtjbVNzSHBQAVA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Enroute to Martinique.</div><br /><o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I was searching<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>for a
suitable<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>place to leave Nomad so I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>could position<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>myself<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>to be ready for an upcoming<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>delivery job when the call came in that it was being postponed<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>indefinitely<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>due to the burgeoning<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>pandemic. It
was a very fortunate<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>bit of timing as
the world locked down on travel a few days later. Had I departed I would<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>have been trapped<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in the USA with no way to return home!<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Martinique<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>turned out to be a very fortuitous<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>choice for an unplanned<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>extended stay. With the reasonable<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>cost of living and laid back culture those of
us who spent the pandemic in Martinique on our boats<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were far better off than cruisers in many other
countries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">So what does one do for 21 months in a harbor on an island when
going ashore becomes a high risk activity? Weekly bottom<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>scrubbing<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>as I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was overdue for fresh bottom<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>paint. Making new friends and helping them
fix and build things. Make a junk rig sail for the dinghy. Dinners with a small
close group of friends. Late night urban foraging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Trying to keep Nomad from rusting<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>away in the endless<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>tropical rains. And so much more. Some of
these activities are interesting<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>enough
to warrant their own story on the blog and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>will be the subject<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>of upcoming
posts.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH_rg6SONotsSnLLpI1RTsEHZ2cuEYcrRUEN0xCOayC7piV9LXCKJqkLY-zhAfi9eW0HQbr6lUxp91uVllx9fK3qlXWrNQHLjjZ2l0BJv1-PKAhY3e-rD2bMEUTjiFpq6g6f1fCvQuVN3yH0F8BjeLsjRReVG5g-CkEhMfYRP25mJNYJcRBbxpGn5h7Q/s4160/IMG_20200901_181318425_050233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH_rg6SONotsSnLLpI1RTsEHZ2cuEYcrRUEN0xCOayC7piV9LXCKJqkLY-zhAfi9eW0HQbr6lUxp91uVllx9fK3qlXWrNQHLjjZ2l0BJv1-PKAhY3e-rD2bMEUTjiFpq6g6f1fCvQuVN3yH0F8BjeLsjRReVG5g-CkEhMfYRP25mJNYJcRBbxpGn5h7Q/s320/IMG_20200901_181318425_050233.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over Diamond Rock.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7KEHDMtNPuAHyUM0oGTCCACcuYmergFz4EMH4xxqAgiEny51Hc_vzqQZK2J5BNzDH1l4GQtXq5XNyEfLXnKz5AG8AJxWanDX_K2w8xzBkJq50OgBMzAM-eDsytA8UITZM9taLmGOgaN9PBr6_hIuXY4O2PNoMJFgXAh1-X0HFhEfuMoK-n6uc-CAlnw/s4608/DSCN3560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7KEHDMtNPuAHyUM0oGTCCACcuYmergFz4EMH4xxqAgiEny51Hc_vzqQZK2J5BNzDH1l4GQtXq5XNyEfLXnKz5AG8AJxWanDX_K2w8xzBkJq50OgBMzAM-eDsytA8UITZM9taLmGOgaN9PBr6_hIuXY4O2PNoMJFgXAh1-X0HFhEfuMoK-n6uc-CAlnw/s320/DSCN3560.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local racing boat.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDFAQjlTBYMUPN9k_URTFytWtiQPJkgcNB9q7dNoNgLER5_WEfHwws28msWjSZK8gi7TqW6lFunvI6myN7TPWobMBXAT-v3hQjVzKuhKija959iZyNPtwuflFc3_i3hOrUG4huUcPjcjsq5fIDzJb8Mpj7-Jn3KMMP-4BdP47MBks_kYeVcMIrB6A9sg/s4608/DSCN3540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDFAQjlTBYMUPN9k_URTFytWtiQPJkgcNB9q7dNoNgLER5_WEfHwws28msWjSZK8gi7TqW6lFunvI6myN7TPWobMBXAT-v3hQjVzKuhKija959iZyNPtwuflFc3_i3hOrUG4huUcPjcjsq5fIDzJb8Mpj7-Jn3KMMP-4BdP47MBks_kYeVcMIrB6A9sg/s320/DSCN3540.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not much bottom paint left!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gJsIpxZ3E2nix6vzPW9_SF6ZOvocE2ZaTpMBx664nKzaGk8NcKEHVgUh5ph9weAHW5cA4UMey9QOd4zDmRJmoSsbreyZzIriO1lSV4kL7Py6El9IbSW15LckVoQ5lJ5Mkvdk_oKP6386sLWf93dIBOA1xmC7bZdMHwsC2NOSlAWWOLmcWwcvDXJCqA/s4608/DSCN3534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gJsIpxZ3E2nix6vzPW9_SF6ZOvocE2ZaTpMBx664nKzaGk8NcKEHVgUh5ph9weAHW5cA4UMey9QOd4zDmRJmoSsbreyZzIriO1lSV4kL7Py6El9IbSW15LckVoQ5lJ5Mkvdk_oKP6386sLWf93dIBOA1xmC7bZdMHwsC2NOSlAWWOLmcWwcvDXJCqA/s320/DSCN3534.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red land crab .</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjyubZCj0iCjgJ1_YfbRL1f_M_4vuy_EsFp7As08AFlLHvNh6-aGwyWr-RzWRlHxW6bZHC_tHzYhIosK02wRqlEou0bWtbN4aA5zlNulOU5CBQsXsLSjlmuKf4Epb-isKAN8z_h14gt-hmk1_BItO1MD8g9nfGO-lHHsCWX-4T-VISU2CVg20pbRbPBQ/s4608/DSCN3533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjyubZCj0iCjgJ1_YfbRL1f_M_4vuy_EsFp7As08AFlLHvNh6-aGwyWr-RzWRlHxW6bZHC_tHzYhIosK02wRqlEou0bWtbN4aA5zlNulOU5CBQsXsLSjlmuKf4Epb-isKAN8z_h14gt-hmk1_BItO1MD8g9nfGO-lHHsCWX-4T-VISU2CVg20pbRbPBQ/s320/DSCN3533.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach hiking near St Anne's. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />
<p class="MsoNormal">Late November of 2021 travel restrictions<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>began to moderate and I was able to gain
entry to Carriacou <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with additional<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>paperwork<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>and testing<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>requirements . It was
an all too brief but uneventful sail from Martinique <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with only a broken batten to repair on
arrival. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Immediately<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>after being processed<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>through the quarantine anchorage and clearing
in I <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>got quotes from both boatyards and
began to source materials for the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>haulout. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Within<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>couple weeks of arrival Nomad was on dry land
for her much needed bottom<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>job. As boat
projects frequently<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>do <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it grew from a quick bottom<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>painting job to a 137 day marathon of boat
projects which will<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>be the topic of the
next blog post.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwKmOcH3llFQn4eV3-EzAPdlur52nLb7N3CXTdOvTfHG95AcpPpbedZwVmV8OawKTsIhO4Nc3jonPAn_5uC85OyJdUcpmLLGIC_FZ_XlX1bLd9aRHAE54aYWZc0B2mJjBpNC4Ssotj8ZJZPG6M3jlsBFH4yD3-SasvHD7OVMGuwqIu_9uEFn-_ooumw/s4608/DSCN3769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwKmOcH3llFQn4eV3-EzAPdlur52nLb7N3CXTdOvTfHG95AcpPpbedZwVmV8OawKTsIhO4Nc3jonPAn_5uC85OyJdUcpmLLGIC_FZ_XlX1bLd9aRHAE54aYWZc0B2mJjBpNC4Ssotj8ZJZPG6M3jlsBFH4yD3-SasvHD7OVMGuwqIu_9uEFn-_ooumw/s320/DSCN3769.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hauling out in Carriacou </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><o:p></o:p></p>
<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-67666478672835772422019-12-28T22:30:00.000-08:002019-12-29T08:37:52.639-08:00The Gambia and Transatlantic to Suriname <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Nomad sailed with the tide from Dakar arriving at Banjul the following day. This being familiar territory, I anchored carefully between the wrecks as close as I could get to the fishing boat wharf and went ashore quickly hoping to finish formalities the same afternoon. But it was just too late in the day to get it all done even with the head of port security driving me around in his car, so I had to make a second trip ashore the next morning to finish up with immigration. This was challenging as the floating docks had been damaged and the only way to get in was to tie the dinghy to one of the fishing boats and climb over it to get up on the dock. The last bit of paperwork was done before the tide turned so there was time for a trip to the market and to the beach on the other side of Banjul to pick up some fresh smoked catfish.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBau5ZICiO6HH1Aijl2pQ79UMTfqwdFCaMxbnaOxvK4lYBSFOJ31teAvHukwoJCmwwm6oUKIOFWhXbQsel-FOpfbTrAD1fJ07lb60HeTBMm7xDkcIz0e8c6nZinGUppEmQ67VDkC2beFNV/s1600/DSCN3242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBau5ZICiO6HH1Aijl2pQ79UMTfqwdFCaMxbnaOxvK4lYBSFOJ31teAvHukwoJCmwwm6oUKIOFWhXbQsel-FOpfbTrAD1fJ07lb60HeTBMm7xDkcIz0e8c6nZinGUppEmQ67VDkC2beFNV/s640/DSCN3242.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The north shore of Banjul.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Picking up the anchor with fair tide behind me made short work of the last few miles to my preferred anchorage near Lamin Lodge. I set anchor near friends on Fai Tira and while finishing that task a boat approached Nomad. “You have been here before?” It was G(Gibril) who I knew casually from my previous visit a few years ago. I asked about my friend Alex as I was not making connections online and he said he would let him know that I was here . It was like a family reunion when he arrived a short time later. Catching up with friends is truly one of the highlights of the nomadic lifestyle!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUptnFPFeMgz18-dlizYqWuqP1d_4h0TF-ZeXeYV2J8Re58LIS0xSLpPL7yXvmb_U-7keynE4luUtqaELUObd-T1fxD_-Qyw2rpY0VAIN2o0Uhy07Cja8qQwgYgstVM3DrGM2czRB3SbLr/s1600/IMG_20190411_173616799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUptnFPFeMgz18-dlizYqWuqP1d_4h0TF-ZeXeYV2J8Re58LIS0xSLpPL7yXvmb_U-7keynE4luUtqaELUObd-T1fxD_-Qyw2rpY0VAIN2o0Uhy07Cja8qQwgYgstVM3DrGM2czRB3SbLr/s640/IMG_20190411_173616799.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex stopping by for a visit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhayuCAIb76HDG5B6wcg2lZWfKxABkueoBMaRAez5uDONqsljA049B15unzqil144G9I-EaHXTjLTxH9JdYn0yA9TtHJYPE30rh10717JDSVPb2CCD4-h2PX4T7JoSK3tfOeWmg9Ukbq4VV/s1600/IMG_20190525_193236851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhayuCAIb76HDG5B6wcg2lZWfKxABkueoBMaRAez5uDONqsljA049B15unzqil144G9I-EaHXTjLTxH9JdYn0yA9TtHJYPE30rh10717JDSVPb2CCD4-h2PX4T7JoSK3tfOeWmg9Ukbq4VV/s640/IMG_20190525_193236851.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road to Lamin </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-qP5y3cm1ZLdfdhDfhZSlSluxz8Eko7SrQEc7uOJPU0x7fr1UvkF1mtVzfvOTltRdELXisFwD5dWzfEREGtoWp6vrDMCKmeevGUI__pMjXclmmbhF85ulPasoVSlNC81v4rnrLfFB0_l/s1600/IMG_20190525_193958912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-qP5y3cm1ZLdfdhDfhZSlSluxz8Eko7SrQEc7uOJPU0x7fr1UvkF1mtVzfvOTltRdELXisFwD5dWzfEREGtoWp6vrDMCKmeevGUI__pMjXclmmbhF85ulPasoVSlNC81v4rnrLfFB0_l/s640/IMG_20190525_193958912.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lamin Lodge from the land side.</td></tr>
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Soon after Fai Tira set off across the Atlantic, Nomad went to to Mandori Creek to begin a much needed paint job.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDewYJXlUSszqTT_HOHcMavTPV47qBJ5QzJK8KSeqZk7C4SHn80vqaBELLkPnFcpkg0YLZr4KB3Y64V0eEc1hv6VOhZcoQ-sYJMUQFCAvWHfTEqJdqdCkZxWoqRGbKNqW2e5UnmJ537jM/s1600/DSCN3192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDewYJXlUSszqTT_HOHcMavTPV47qBJ5QzJK8KSeqZk7C4SHn80vqaBELLkPnFcpkg0YLZr4KB3Y64V0eEc1hv6VOhZcoQ-sYJMUQFCAvWHfTEqJdqdCkZxWoqRGbKNqW2e5UnmJ537jM/s640/DSCN3192.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset on Mandori creek. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCF46kIjgHvHNBmO-czFVfbn0mThu_eA63bPefkX0o2jOCiS36sUGrenWzBNyBtgFYNkvrxncZLtjDUPE1865EBHhCoHroPvoQL1eyo-UXeWDsvVhqugq7HRNeuxwLZANJa-MOYcAAAgx7/s1600/DSCN3181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCF46kIjgHvHNBmO-czFVfbn0mThu_eA63bPefkX0o2jOCiS36sUGrenWzBNyBtgFYNkvrxncZLtjDUPE1865EBHhCoHroPvoQL1eyo-UXeWDsvVhqugq7HRNeuxwLZANJa-MOYcAAAgx7/s640/DSCN3181.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad anchored at Mandori creek.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLxLGU8DFEDbmZKoZJzc9vJJbRm141UgkCqRBHJqug-EYDpkcbc6guK7aAEvEE6UaYMKhoqp29zGetbsn4dCrsqXbUvZP-AgZmarZcTlOHyIx4zQElmlhnor_0httWEjFltaVwhhnm7n7/s1600/DSCN3205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLxLGU8DFEDbmZKoZJzc9vJJbRm141UgkCqRBHJqug-EYDpkcbc6guK7aAEvEE6UaYMKhoqp29zGetbsn4dCrsqXbUvZP-AgZmarZcTlOHyIx4zQElmlhnor_0httWEjFltaVwhhnm7n7/s640/DSCN3205.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underway on Mandori Creek</td></tr>
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With the prep work done it was time to move upriver to the fresh water for a good wash before re the new paint was applied. The new bridge at the Farafenni (Yerritenda) ferry crossing was completed and recently opened. The reported clearance is 15 to 18 meters depending on the tide.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpry0-JDmUgeMXVTLxU5SF3PzgsZRyCOiJjEjavVV6Q-q6AXMl8t_HISaig62Kl5N1LtQI4l3EOeVF41NctQWziHS4HT7e8GBkExHxltYHjkYUz7a4ehDSEjtrQrWe9aqN2a2z2kupZwwd/s1600/IMG_20190517_174630958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpry0-JDmUgeMXVTLxU5SF3PzgsZRyCOiJjEjavVV6Q-q6AXMl8t_HISaig62Kl5N1LtQI4l3EOeVF41NctQWziHS4HT7e8GBkExHxltYHjkYUz7a4ehDSEjtrQrWe9aqN2a2z2kupZwwd/s640/IMG_20190517_174630958.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new bridge across the Gambia river at the Yerritenda ferry crossing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWNfCPuNSI1CwhcyhV6MXqu-8WYol1NGZv66YRV9s5BCE9gSEJX_UFRUujDydTEQxKyKZcOakDalx3Pw6ZIeRDRE8d_2E56JiMxrerfS39Wy4c5EoKm1pbiLIhxymg9kHpB9Y87rdo5OF/s1600/DSCN3208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWNfCPuNSI1CwhcyhV6MXqu-8WYol1NGZv66YRV9s5BCE9gSEJX_UFRUujDydTEQxKyKZcOakDalx3Pw6ZIeRDRE8d_2E56JiMxrerfS39Wy4c5EoKm1pbiLIhxymg9kHpB9Y87rdo5OF/s640/DSCN3208.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near Farafenni.</td></tr>
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Nomad anchored on the shoals one mile upstream of the bridge. I went ashore to Farafenni to get my monthly immigration stamp in the passport before resuming my upriver journey. A few days later I was anchored near Sea Horse Island and spent a hot(43C), pleasant week painting Nomad’s topsides. I had chosen this location not only for the nearly fresh water, but because it was near Sambang where there were friends from the last visit to The Gambia. Communication is intermittent at best upriver and I was unable to make contact. Being unwilling to hike several kilometers inland to reach the village to find out if they were still there I began the slow process of working the tides back downriver.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKfKzY5bWshMG1DHaDBRfcGdxt3X09SQe8QtqhTx6QKH8hva52ryUor-6dA8CsDz30LyFKU-ycoBCa4Iw0AXH9wGckaLXs-BYLz48Ytw-syKsMfpsk46bLgL_LuyceKbycri2NysWapG8q/s1600/IMG_20190509_185159075_BURST000_COVER.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKfKzY5bWshMG1DHaDBRfcGdxt3X09SQe8QtqhTx6QKH8hva52ryUor-6dA8CsDz30LyFKU-ycoBCa4Iw0AXH9wGckaLXs-BYLz48Ytw-syKsMfpsk46bLgL_LuyceKbycri2NysWapG8q/s640/IMG_20190509_185159075_BURST000_COVER.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another beautiful sunset on the Gambia river at Sea Horse Island.</td></tr>
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At this time of the tide cycle the ebb tide was in the morning and evening hours leaving me with about five to six hours at anchor midday waiting for the flood tide to end. It was during one of these mid afternoon breaks anchored upriver from the Yerritenda ferry crossing that there was a knock on the hull. There were some fishermen in a dugout who had a net drifting down on Nomad in the current. I hurriedly raised the anchor just off the bottom and dragged it into deeper water just getting clear of the drift net by a few meters. The fishermen stopped by again after the anchor was reset and gave me a couple of fish for dinner. It was otherwise an uneventful trip downriver until I reached James island. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje4bOXP_j96fS3S-zll3fHrebAgPpcoHCOUV0Ka0kaESYnFinpR3puNVLXRXulUkenqRNhRaE8pilqnEu9jESPJuSpjjOfMUYYxA1UdC109yQ6T-hyJRF5kU6V1XnqfXMVamHv9NfOlbji/s1600/DSCN3216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje4bOXP_j96fS3S-zll3fHrebAgPpcoHCOUV0Ka0kaESYnFinpR3puNVLXRXulUkenqRNhRaE8pilqnEu9jESPJuSpjjOfMUYYxA1UdC109yQ6T-hyJRF5kU6V1XnqfXMVamHv9NfOlbji/s640/DSCN3216.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gambian fisherman at work.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEucIvFMpM8J2Fi5SbEvRtWuC-XnUjLkrX3Iv2TQKeogKEGsXpYHZCj2oan2nbx6W6dZpVT7l0sd3Jk1SCAZMTevYqY8aomedoG1z3CQHOWVLa4uvCDCi_WzUMxvcObQeT0YaFX1lI10z-/s1600/DSCN3220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEucIvFMpM8J2Fi5SbEvRtWuC-XnUjLkrX3Iv2TQKeogKEGsXpYHZCj2oan2nbx6W6dZpVT7l0sd3Jk1SCAZMTevYqY8aomedoG1z3CQHOWVLa4uvCDCi_WzUMxvcObQeT0YaFX1lI10z-/s640/DSCN3220.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored near Salikenni point. One of the few places in the North Bank Region without mangroves and easy shore access.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFXkXAOWdN1tPU1wICK_Ms-f0HWnI2K6ymcAMKq0G2YlJv6xTDv7TyWAhYfPY77Kza-4FS45_yEYwvEdjrzmoKVKrkGJWme28YmxFbZAjrWpNez53bRu3MueWzXTHVY-Yne0t_vYGpH26/s1600/DSCN3217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFXkXAOWdN1tPU1wICK_Ms-f0HWnI2K6ymcAMKq0G2YlJv6xTDv7TyWAhYfPY77Kza-4FS45_yEYwvEdjrzmoKVKrkGJWme28YmxFbZAjrWpNez53bRu3MueWzXTHVY-Yne0t_vYGpH26/s640/DSCN3217.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tour boat from Lamin Lodge on the river.</td></tr>
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The afternoon breeze blowing upriver against the ebbing tide was creating large waves, some of them washing over the bow as Nomad plunged into them. This was a bit much bouncing around as the boat was not prepared for offshore conditions in the river. I worked my way into the lee of Dog Island Point and anchored to await the morning calm. At sunrise the next morning the anchor was raised and the last few miles to Lamin Bolong were easily done in nearly windless conditions. At anchor once again at Lamin Lodge the deck painting was finished and I began preparations for Nomads next Atlantic crossing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xRut0DRXgdOJJIW8WhOsHUKopjwuzF3CbVyD6hw0QjJJNi8nePvdR4V4DBPuTxr0Lms5QsIXEk3UrRCdjWFb51dtBEz0JfEeLv_okbtgsiiejZrJMkzJa6y_ot3AJQV_4LzgoanV41gv/s1600/DSCN3229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xRut0DRXgdOJJIW8WhOsHUKopjwuzF3CbVyD6hw0QjJJNi8nePvdR4V4DBPuTxr0Lms5QsIXEk3UrRCdjWFb51dtBEz0JfEeLv_okbtgsiiejZrJMkzJa6y_ot3AJQV_4LzgoanV41gv/s640/DSCN3229.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad looking great with all new paint.</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg37kWrYhC3Txfzn4GXa2eryn_A1UzLnLTgpj0kw1yZ1TBlnLv1K2Yv04MUc2FDcayXpgm3lUVvWO4AQr3werWX7_ez5ZkO5NmZEba4Iyzc9N2ilVpuX5WtlfoRP9utwIRrc2bfJ6T2eYtU/s1600/DSCN3227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1440" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg37kWrYhC3Txfzn4GXa2eryn_A1UzLnLTgpj0kw1yZ1TBlnLv1K2Yv04MUc2FDcayXpgm3lUVvWO4AQr3werWX7_ez5ZkO5NmZEba4Iyzc9N2ilVpuX5WtlfoRP9utwIRrc2bfJ6T2eYtU/s640/DSCN3227.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXdm3HClnNDjBBRkVv7WrrOi3dYW3CzXUShxIYX4rQfnmV9am-jhOKENReIDXV4uez69am1fHCd9t_YVqgMa-nHJRp3n3ltJ_3t29JsZfCEUIkXWya3u2L3wu3DjCEc5ttaKuqrsW_U5F5/s1600/IMG_20190606_135438216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXdm3HClnNDjBBRkVv7WrrOi3dYW3CzXUShxIYX4rQfnmV9am-jhOKENReIDXV4uez69am1fHCd9t_YVqgMa-nHJRp3n3ltJ_3t29JsZfCEUIkXWya3u2L3wu3DjCEc5ttaKuqrsW_U5F5/s640/IMG_20190606_135438216.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lamin delivering a load of water. With the watermaker in need of new membranes, drinking water had to be carried to the boat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyLA258_zMErZgUAQ6rdbbIqFyKBQe018AFykZmD4OtTYR-jCzr68lxPsltkLEP2ShSFN12Ka8eh6SzU8xzw08Wdk5v0jIzA_mhdV_u5BmBWbaXoZ1IoiF4IWLbWkmTwsa8UVsPgRc9wHY/s1600/IMG_20190605_182616821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyLA258_zMErZgUAQ6rdbbIqFyKBQe018AFykZmD4OtTYR-jCzr68lxPsltkLEP2ShSFN12Ka8eh6SzU8xzw08Wdk5v0jIzA_mhdV_u5BmBWbaXoZ1IoiF4IWLbWkmTwsa8UVsPgRc9wHY/s640/IMG_20190605_182616821.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkeys on the dock at Lamin Lodge.</td></tr>
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One afternoon I got a note on Messenger from a friend I had been trying to contact while upriver. It was Samba who had welcomed me and my friends into his compound during my last visit to The Gambia. He was nearby so we quickly arranged a meeting place at Lamin Lodge. Samba accompanied me and Lamin looking for bamboo to replace some broken battens and took some ( rare) pictures of me. All too soon it was time to clear out of The Gambia and begin the voyage to Suriname before the hurricanes start forming up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHsrD-2R1m5a_yxEwCvEVx0otDYqokqAuItOEkL_K-GWbPrmLkyJM2Klx2bDVcQMbb7ffrcUSFuABXC-5EeDu6P93UJaDEJb0uMx8YY83QjLmHl8cRPPjE7iBo41aPyZAXBpGa08kikv7/s1600/IMG_20190603_145619754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHsrD-2R1m5a_yxEwCvEVx0otDYqokqAuItOEkL_K-GWbPrmLkyJM2Klx2bDVcQMbb7ffrcUSFuABXC-5EeDu6P93UJaDEJb0uMx8YY83QjLmHl8cRPPjE7iBo41aPyZAXBpGa08kikv7/s640/IMG_20190603_145619754.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Samba visiting on Nomad.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQASAVXDV7ADWUorNMO42_I1t7-F8uiZriTPbkgP4x8b7LpemNwFEVh_Rwyry0TnVK_pVYiNlzhehHs_8VXlWatgtHFeijoXQxepNGFLvaW5pis2fQHRWPQ2RXDtcCePJveR4EOFyodzS-/s1600/received_2357031007845898.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1224" data-original-width="918" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQASAVXDV7ADWUorNMO42_I1t7-F8uiZriTPbkgP4x8b7LpemNwFEVh_Rwyry0TnVK_pVYiNlzhehHs_8VXlWatgtHFeijoXQxepNGFLvaW5pis2fQHRWPQ2RXDtcCePJveR4EOFyodzS-/s640/received_2357031007845898.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carrying some fresh six meter bamboo poles back to the dinghy.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOEOCRaDqkwoC_A33HuoyeBUk1ZtBwgRSHKsFcYiYXnZkJIfao7L1-QeNOXcia7ExAhaolojOUHRndBoPlIzG1BqkG-ZGPbTQDp9b7GLXXP_c_MzkVmLnPK9Kidy6X7SD-B7e9ErG7Beu/s1600/DSCN3243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOEOCRaDqkwoC_A33HuoyeBUk1ZtBwgRSHKsFcYiYXnZkJIfao7L1-QeNOXcia7ExAhaolojOUHRndBoPlIzG1BqkG-ZGPbTQDp9b7GLXXP_c_MzkVmLnPK9Kidy6X7SD-B7e9ErG7Beu/s640/DSCN3243.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Powerplant ships providing electricity to Banjul.</td></tr>
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Once Nomad was a few hundred miles offshore and into the tradewinds life settled into an easy routine that continued for several weeks. It was rainy season in South America. Unlike the last trip where the rains didn't start until I reached the sea bouy off Paramaribo, on this trip I ran into the ITCZ north of the Brazilian coast making the last week of the voyage very wet and squally. The rain at times was so heavy that I could not see the jib from the aft cabin. It was during this time that the wind generator stopped working necessitating a daily generator runs since there was no sunshine for the solar panels. As I closed the coast the wind died out completely so the last few miles were completed under engine power.<br />
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Ten miles northeast of the sea buoy the engine was shut down to enjoy the silence of the calm ocean while awaiting a fair tide to enter the Suriname river. With the flood current behind her, Nomad made short work of the long ride upriver to the anchorage at Domburg. With formalities completed and my body clock accustomed to staying awake all day again it was time to get some maintenance and repairs done. Suriname is at five degrees north putting it well South of the hurricane zone. This makes it an excellent safe place to spend the summer and leave the boat unattended while I return to the USA to find some jobs.<br />
<a href="http://marinasuriname.com/en/home.html" target="_blank">http://marinasuriname.com/en/home.html</a><br />
This was Nomads second trip to Suriname so I decided to visit someplace new. The end of navigation for sailboats on the Suriname river is a few miles above Paranam where a short bridge closes the river to tall vessels. This was a quiet anchorage where I spent a week doing repairs and watching the abundant wildlife . From here it was a few short hours downriver to Domburg where Nomad was placed on a mooring and laid up for the season to await my return.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the road for sailboats on Suriname river. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suriname river sand barge.</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-36134810186999129462019-11-08T18:42:00.001-08:002019-11-08T18:42:48.323-08:00Southbound to Africa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It was easy sailing to Gran Canaria from Porto Santo. Nomad anchored and cleared in at the ever popular harbor at Las Palmas. This is a great place for connecting with friends and stocking up the boat before moving on to Africa. With marine supplies readily available it is also a good place to do some boat projects. I carried on with the interminable task of recaulking Nomad’s seventeen portholes and purchased enough caulk to finish the job. The dinghy hasn’t had a sailing rig on it since it was on my last boat. I fiber glassed in waterproof seats for flotation. It is now unsinkable even without the fenders under the center seat, so I began building the sailing rig for it. There is a charge for staying at the Las Palmas anchorage, so I moved around the island to the free and very rolly anchorage at Puerto Cementero. I finished building the sailing rig for the dinghy and tested it out. It was great fun to sail it again but the rig is really too tall making it very unstable. It needs to be shortened quite a bit or more likely replaced with a smaller junk rig sail. I once again met up with friends on Fai Tira. They sailed directly for The Gambia the day before I departed, arriving a week before Nomad.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TThe anchorage in Las Palmas is used by big and little sailboats.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad's sailing dinghy with an oversized rig.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brisk sailing down the east coast of Gran Canaria</td></tr>
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Sailing south from Gran Canaria one can stay in the lee of the island and out out of the acceleration zone for some distance but eventually that ends and you get the big winds with no warning. In retrospect this was not the best course as the wave trains wrap around the sides of Gran Canaria and meet south of it causing very steep waves running into each other and breaking vertically. This made for some uncomfortable sailing into the next day until I was well south of the Canary islands. It’s also one of the few times Nomad has had waves breaking over her stern.<br />
Arriving off the coast of Dakhla Morocco in a near calm the wind became a brisk southerly as I was crossing the shoals into the bay. This south wind also brought with it a nice one meter swell into the fishing boat harbour which is open to the south. Another sailboat rafted off to Nomad using non stretchy halyards to tie up with. This cracked a weld on Nomad’s starboard bulwark. I told him to get his boat off immediately, but he had to get a diver to cut a line off his propeller. The officials agreed that it was too dangerous to stay on the wharf in those conditions so I went to anchor behind the port until the south wind stopped. While waiting for my neighbor to get his prop cleared the tide was coming in and lifting Nomad’s rub rails over the top of the ship sized fenders allowing them to put a few dents in the hull. It’s really good to have a tough steel boat!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgknRJb_6Mf8f1R79uWzFqgxYp5Sww0B0NTuSAY0TDbocj3aZzDI4PDwZTkVZebmWHmYkc0YTVLGu17F0DnhyphenhyphenYRVhRIaJPp__hTrh80khPkTnXLIjoDa6J3lSyw7eeG7V8Zz2AqYwGbOMPU/s1600/DSCN3156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgknRJb_6Mf8f1R79uWzFqgxYp5Sww0B0NTuSAY0TDbocj3aZzDI4PDwZTkVZebmWHmYkc0YTVLGu17F0DnhyphenhyphenYRVhRIaJPp__hTrh80khPkTnXLIjoDa6J3lSyw7eeG7V8Zz2AqYwGbOMPU/s640/DSCN3156.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored in the lee of the Dakhla fishing boat harbour.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rafted up in calmer conditions at Dakhla.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moroccan fishing boat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhub_Ts4b0VfvI70NpRi59w__L065F1nicr7C8XXhYEDp5jijCuFduEpmxl3ypSxvmJZfO7YSsJFs9dI1NW7H4BvKg7y7DfDKxed9-CT-t6WbFfvJHWkbScH75ko2UNI1JoTxJtmkLnAPs8/s1600/IMG_20190328_135948551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhub_Ts4b0VfvI70NpRi59w__L065F1nicr7C8XXhYEDp5jijCuFduEpmxl3ypSxvmJZfO7YSsJFs9dI1NW7H4BvKg7y7DfDKxed9-CT-t6WbFfvJHWkbScH75ko2UNI1JoTxJtmkLnAPs8/s640/IMG_20190328_135948551.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's space for everyone in Dakhla.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dakhla</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQjd-xREFScEJa4Q2AUzmhRifO2Nv72ebgw53VZd6sptEtEyGzB5upRlbIymD-nsa5zPhnQvGwFSlQFSgUxTuixelp0sPr8Dbf3S9CyNUhnFK-Y5Ph0wU_-pdoz1fYZpLpA-l6l4AZ8YvW/s1600/IMG_20190328_114534495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQjd-xREFScEJa4Q2AUzmhRifO2Nv72ebgw53VZd6sptEtEyGzB5upRlbIymD-nsa5zPhnQvGwFSlQFSgUxTuixelp0sPr8Dbf3S9CyNUhnFK-Y5Ph0wU_-pdoz1fYZpLpA-l6l4AZ8YvW/s640/IMG_20190328_114534495.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dakhla mosque.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdVJGIsOpKZbLqC29dgOyRcNlql-sS2D0Zz9wiVCg-V7a0mlrdSYeQ5jexj14nzFbclQPiZhDCGacM-4KxA5Rh0IHfDvmOy7FP7KaxyzK9zyi6eqIG2dsthLjjttXy7mq1IU1jPkZddw_/s1600/IMG_20190328_125633157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdVJGIsOpKZbLqC29dgOyRcNlql-sS2D0Zz9wiVCg-V7a0mlrdSYeQ5jexj14nzFbclQPiZhDCGacM-4KxA5Rh0IHfDvmOy7FP7KaxyzK9zyi6eqIG2dsthLjjttXy7mq1IU1jPkZddw_/s640/IMG_20190328_125633157.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fisherman's ddwharf doubles captionas a boatyard.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea going hitchhiker.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh sardines </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out the local motorcycle shop.</td></tr>
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When the weather settled I put Nomad back in the fishing harbour rafted off to the same tug that I tied to on my last visit and finished the clearing in process. I enjoyed a few days walking around Dakhla sampling a few restaurants and stocking Nomad’s galley with fresh olive oil and a few kilos on Moroccan olives.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh Moroccan supplies for the galley.</td></tr>
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The weather forecast showed the prevailing notherlies had returned so I cleared out for Dakar. Nomad’s departure was as challenging as her arrival. The officials gave me the ok to get underway, then another arrived and wanted to take some paperwork back to his office. By the time he returned the afternoon winds had filled in and I was pinned firmly to the tugboat. Every possible maneuver was tried but Nomad’s little 30hp motor just couldn’t pull her out. The tug need to get out, so he got underway with Nomad still firmly pinned to his side then made a sharp turn to throw my stern clear of the boats behind us. Free of the harbour at last I noticed that the engine cooling water was a mere trickle. The engine had sucked up one of the thousands of pieces plastic garbage floating in the harbour. It was really good to get the sails up and reach the safety of the ocean!<br />
Nomad anchored in Dakar Senegal off the Cercle de la Voile yacht club for a brief rest from the non-stop fishing boat traffic coming down the coast.Clearing into Senegal has become slightly easier since my last visit, only a stamp in the passport instead of a full page visa.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wind is so consistent that only one stand is needed on the upwind side on the beach in Dakar.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dakar bus stop.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The distinctive hotel behind the yacht club.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh fish going to the market.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinghy dock at Cercle de la Voile.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beach at Plage de Hann<br /></td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-4709830468602181222019-07-27T16:18:00.001-07:002019-07-27T16:18:21.535-07:00Nomad's First Voyage To Mainland Portugal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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By the time Nomad worked her way around Punta Robaleira Spain the forecast gale force northerlies were beginning to build as the sun set. I carefully approached the unlit beach in complete darkness with a close watch on the depthsounder. It was a relief to get anchored as there had been little respite from the heavy traffic all the way from England. When the sun came up the next morning I found that the the only other boat in Enseada Barra was a small junk. The forecast called for a day of brisk southerlies after the gale so we sailed in company across to Bayona Spain. This was an excellent opportunity for some good photos of each others boats under sail. Sailing with another junk was a rare chance to compare different rigs and see other methods of working our unique boats.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">China Blue coming up fast</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad, as seen from China Blue</td></tr>
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Nomad departed Bayona when the winds changed back to the prevailing northerlies. But the winds were light offshore and there was a big swell left over from the recent winds. Nomad was unable to maintain steerage in the troughs where there was no wind so it was time to play motorboat for twenty four hours until the wind and sea state allowed sailing. After that it was easy sailing, having moved slightly further offshore to get out of the steady stream of traffic moving along the coast. Rounding Cabo Sao Vincente brought Nomad into a different world. The wind became light before stopping altogether, the big Atlantic swell disappeared and the temperature became noticeably warmer. I put the anchor down inside the breakwater in Portimao Portugal five days after departing Bayona.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in Portimao Portugal.</td></tr>
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Portimao was a good city to restock the boat in and visit. Seeking a quieter, less rolly anchorage I moved east to Culatra. The sea state in the entrance was a bit rough with the wind and tide opposed as I could not go quite fast enough to arrive at slack water. Here was a pleasant anchorage near a small fishing village that could only be reached by boat. The larger town of Olhao was just a dinghy ride across the drying sandbanks. Timing the tides is all important rowing across the sandbanks. One afternoon I lingered a little too long at a waterfront pub and had to get out and walk the dinghy across the sandbanks in not quite enough water to fully float it. Another fifteen minutes and I would have had several miles of rowing to get home!<br />
This looked like it was a good place to work on the boat, so I dismounted the windvane and got it on deck. I had noticed that the Delrin bearings were falling out of the bottom and decided that it was time to rebuild it. <br />
This overhaul was way overdue, I had done nothing except replace the plastic bits that got sun rotted and the control lines since I purchased it for my last boat. In1998!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for a complete rebuild.</td></tr>
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Some time ago I was told to check out the Rio Guadiana by another sailor. This was just a short sail to the Spain-Portugal border so I had no trouble timing arrival for high water. As the tide began to ebb it was time to anchor. I found a comfortable shoal out of the main channel before the bridge across from Ayamonte. Riding the tide the next afternoon I went upriver to anchor off the twin towns of Alcoutim Portugal and Sanlucar Spain. Two countries, two time zones and two languages split by the Rio Guadiana. This river is a sailors paradise with no commercial traffic and sailboats anchored everywhere. Village life or wilderness all nearby. There are quite a number of ex sailors living ashore here who arrived on their boats and never left. I thought I would explore the river for a few days before moving on. But the good living and active social life along the riverfront kept me here for well over a month including the Christmas and New Years celebrations.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sanlucar de Guadiana as seen from Alcoutim</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailboats everywhere on the Guadiana</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvFhLCEeMsH01x84hVSJqepNTs5_bpur4gpo_ANkAppmFgsQrER1SRjjkCyc1rfXGPfXWeviwazP2d8fdv5eSxbL4nFwqp9ygZRgsaTTdemjzaYRDXfuD4OplsBYt2B71iiccseDOZIuaI/s1600/IMG_20181206_160708242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most days started like this.</td></tr>
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Talking with people here I learned that it was possible to go with your boat as far upriver as Mertola which is much further than the chart goes. I set off with a copy of a very old guidebook and some notes to explore the upper river. I moved slowly going hiking at every anchorage . Eventually I got to a bend in the river and could not locate the channel at high tide. When the tide dropped I could see what I thought was deep water channel was completely blocked by boulders. The next morning was spent exploring with the dinghy and lead line, finding the deep channel less than two meters from the bank. Getting around this bend at high tide was easy with a quick sketch chart of turning points I made in the dinghy. Nomad anchored further upriver a half mile below the ruins of an old Roman dam near Vau da Vaquiera. Reportedly one can pass over it at high tide. After an investigation with lead line found that it is deep enough at high tide but there were a few random boulders scattered about without a straight path through, I decided not to risk scraping up my bottom paint and go the last two miles to Mertola by dinghy. I had to wait for a few days for the tide times to be right to ride the tide up and back during daylight. Two days later a cold front came through with brisk shifting winds and Nomad began to slowly drag her anchor upriver. After several failed attempts to reset the anchor on a bottom that was apparently solid rock I hitched it up and headed downriver to Penha de Aguia to anchor in a nice mud bottom.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1yvTXZ6FTnc5ZWRLMQXIaVjogZQEqZ_wuzl5kwV2UzlpfLlsMH8dq2qkJlUrqcqG2ktZ9IQOSSq8bCiJNSp1LdhbSrPDdVAAhGjr0_0wZxdtSkgc1VwAoKNR29lTXX_QiXIC-sCLIrYva/s1600/DSCN2971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1yvTXZ6FTnc5ZWRLMQXIaVjogZQEqZ_wuzl5kwV2UzlpfLlsMH8dq2qkJlUrqcqG2ktZ9IQOSSq8bCiJNSp1LdhbSrPDdVAAhGjr0_0wZxdtSkgc1VwAoKNR29lTXX_QiXIC-sCLIrYva/s640/DSCN2971.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Downriver from Penha de Aguia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjY76pPR7xhG5wTtg-Lhi7RdaYsxP0PFa__gE81YXKCeo3uTvVstQTtaLoNL7ZF9Zn_TE5m-ov1Fcx_dtZwrSnbNXGuEBJshv0tHP5n8LerfoFl2HpRbhmpwv1VUDd7PfPa7CCt0gEf4Px/s1600/DSCN2983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjY76pPR7xhG5wTtg-Lhi7RdaYsxP0PFa__gE81YXKCeo3uTvVstQTtaLoNL7ZF9Zn_TE5m-ov1Fcx_dtZwrSnbNXGuEBJshv0tHP5n8LerfoFl2HpRbhmpwv1VUDd7PfPa7CCt0gEf4Px/s640/DSCN2983.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The remains of an old Roman era dam at Vau da Vaquiera . End of the road for Nomad</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisX5wR607xfby1Y-UUmGV4bvMD-7T-qCjcjRQVCt1b2TQQyKPWyqtOoe0qSn1nquqQ5t5dTh3bqdyhfns2SMytNPjtQL8xm8SDGmJ-tmgZQbxb7T3LKuYS5q_J3fKml_0Bmrx4yyGXzYXk/s1600/DSCN2987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisX5wR607xfby1Y-UUmGV4bvMD-7T-qCjcjRQVCt1b2TQQyKPWyqtOoe0qSn1nquqQ5t5dTh3bqdyhfns2SMytNPjtQL8xm8SDGmJ-tmgZQbxb7T3LKuYS5q_J3fKml_0Bmrx4yyGXzYXk/s640/DSCN2987.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time to start using two anchors in the narrow areas. The wind vane was bumping on the rocks as the tide turned.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipzBVkOS0xJ7QQC0E34tOYII6p1DS4yAffBTA5IGbtuyZVJFbECK9YOIyBucT22LpJu3UkOSy_xZ9Q8uq9-J7QJ3yKFHfLZ9a_74FyVLRdKlSHW4vnolhbQzZTW8F3l23gChcCVXCIky2B/s1600/DSCN3003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipzBVkOS0xJ7QQC0E34tOYII6p1DS4yAffBTA5IGbtuyZVJFbECK9YOIyBucT22LpJu3UkOSy_xZ9Q8uq9-J7QJ3yKFHfLZ9a_74FyVLRdKlSHW4vnolhbQzZTW8F3l23gChcCVXCIky2B/s640/DSCN3003.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad's last anchorage before turning downriver. Three miles from Mertola.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKmPidqn1MXb6RCOE2VTmSLmeniuSa7bvHJeCzhdC7BYXZdvcM83lWeSXXn_jd1BCa0K2G4ISd80m2O7XDm8V1aXIMVUzFRl4aNJ94HYUvAR5LL-zt1z9HWNkR2h0uriz-rv66gVMWlhKw/s1600/DSCN3004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKmPidqn1MXb6RCOE2VTmSLmeniuSa7bvHJeCzhdC7BYXZdvcM83lWeSXXn_jd1BCa0K2G4ISd80m2O7XDm8V1aXIMVUzFRl4aNJ94HYUvAR5LL-zt1z9HWNkR2h0uriz-rv66gVMWlhKw/s640/DSCN3004.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another spectacular Guadiana anchorage.</td></tr>
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Pomerao is a very small village with two restaurants and a riverside parking are popular with caravans. The big attraction here is the hiking into the countryside along many kilometers of old railways. After the mine closed, the tracks and bridges were dismantled and anything of value was removed. But the tunnels and bridge foundations remain. I spent a few days hiking extensively in the mountains behind Pomerao.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VYP2FnWvsaV9tX4-GOnBtMdGnAVOpwNSLaUjSZ1g47UNGytZyr4OenqhJqdI5QudYoov-WBFTJ_vQieQivrwEOORv_55g9W2dNRNtu5hg0MmTeD_2wILUAv4fi8vkXz0yq1T4YvO0sTj/s1600/DSCN3026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VYP2FnWvsaV9tX4-GOnBtMdGnAVOpwNSLaUjSZ1g47UNGytZyr4OenqhJqdI5QudYoov-WBFTJ_vQieQivrwEOORv_55g9W2dNRNtu5hg0MmTeD_2wILUAv4fi8vkXz0yq1T4YvO0sTj/s640/DSCN3026.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored by Pomerao. Notice the wing dams upriver showing at low tide.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhbfu_360UdMW9i2-fSTm_oGCm1SpeZjb4sK9xBoohjXCA70UIjQmZv4qwPAW3QXqbwOHQwWxv-2nPpFbkiuIgUv6-st4YaIK08M4pEVvYqIEQ_NcmaikK-e4KH5XAJtsry34rXu6UQ93/s1600/DSCN3040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhbfu_360UdMW9i2-fSTm_oGCm1SpeZjb4sK9xBoohjXCA70UIjQmZv4qwPAW3QXqbwOHQwWxv-2nPpFbkiuIgUv6-st4YaIK08M4pEVvYqIEQ_NcmaikK-e4KH5XAJtsry34rXu6UQ93/s640/DSCN3040.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pomerao</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLiThVVt0CflpvFkdiM6lyhYwT2P89uEkrsnlG8cAspPCw0fIqeLoFzHPZygdn3tdt6ElwTl8PO0u9c5-y8PK_UowZInAtTyWQ9mKecONYeb_ykU-VyrW7Hu8MtQSe3_6GUXfoUoi_jY9/s1600/DSCN3041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLiThVVt0CflpvFkdiM6lyhYwT2P89uEkrsnlG8cAspPCw0fIqeLoFzHPZygdn3tdt6ElwTl8PO0u9c5-y8PK_UowZInAtTyWQ9mKecONYeb_ykU-VyrW7Hu8MtQSe3_6GUXfoUoi_jY9/s640/DSCN3041.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored fore and aft in Pomerao. The boas on the docks were all long term storage with only a few sailors onboard.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKVzPvJ09T1sVubmS0Mg1BS_vHEUbOYex-1r0clBtIyAS3_-A8YVB3c0tXhLETuid9rhaQaWMPfSvIZ2uEuvEpjVbApOyvf5r59Jmk0x4_Z5YdS9wVGXlqINLnNU1rdwnmkR22fB7gKg7/s1600/IMG_20181216_160655258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKVzPvJ09T1sVubmS0Mg1BS_vHEUbOYex-1r0clBtIyAS3_-A8YVB3c0tXhLETuid9rhaQaWMPfSvIZ2uEuvEpjVbApOyvf5r59Jmk0x4_Z5YdS9wVGXlqINLnNU1rdwnmkR22fB7gKg7/s640/IMG_20181216_160655258.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring the old railway tunnels.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8mGKhORiOnynkOwbd8TEfkor6KjXAPyeMuzMWutlwArm3VkhkiI3wraLOVo0pzoXU-HC46c6d6Dhb2FgdSzOACVABQ-z8nj33ZDMZ4JzLzoOTzpRFOqGaNscCs5b1BzSUQyd3GqGyAe5J/s1600/IMG_20181218_125511962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8mGKhORiOnynkOwbd8TEfkor6KjXAPyeMuzMWutlwArm3VkhkiI3wraLOVo0pzoXU-HC46c6d6Dhb2FgdSzOACVABQ-z8nj33ZDMZ4JzLzoOTzpRFOqGaNscCs5b1BzSUQyd3GqGyAe5J/s640/IMG_20181218_125511962.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pomerao as seen from the highway above town.</td></tr>
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Learning of a bamboo grove on the river, I located it and cut some fresh bamboo to replace some damaged battens. Nomad anchored again downstream of Alcoutim to install the new bamboo and work on the never ending fixit list.<br />
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With the ninety days allowed in the Schengen agreement countries fast running out and wanting to save a little bit for the Canary islands I reluctantly sailed back to Portimao to get a little fuel and clear out for Morocco. Before losing the phone signal off shore I got an email from some friends who said they were still in the boatyard in Porto Santo. After a quick check of the weather forecast I changed course for Porto Santo and sent them a note saying that I will see you in a few days. Five days later Nomad was anchored inside the breakwater at Porto Santo. It was a great opportunity to catch up with old friends and do a lot of hiking around the island. Hiking also provides spectacular views along the forbidding north side of the island which is a dangerous lee shore for boats.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnBGZ88qwac2B7auNpH0su1t3T-8Uc6k0cSXqGVL7hNV5EQ2LRkc0_25bfm3gQwWX9f1WVJbkGag2Fv2LNUqDqTH7ncgd_blUVV5E8NFTIBZTDzozXxm6ClYmJYgEeGyJtGd2GFAvj4hS/s1600/IMG_20190122_154732083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnBGZ88qwac2B7auNpH0su1t3T-8Uc6k0cSXqGVL7hNV5EQ2LRkc0_25bfm3gQwWX9f1WVJbkGag2Fv2LNUqDqTH7ncgd_blUVV5E8NFTIBZTDzozXxm6ClYmJYgEeGyJtGd2GFAvj4hS/s640/IMG_20190122_154732083.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The harbour at Porto Santo. In the background, Madeira on the right and Ilhas Desertas on the left.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdoBB20q7BFZAkkfNdUyPjustJr6dGRJLUoZSXOiBvcWGrYzVqRbsxWUPY6u_Jlnp68_TdwY_tLnULURB5iCCowF9-IgVvQQDHDf33S8LlTMlxAGdCrsBAZ1B5G5SbmWh-w9hyphenhyphenpz0WE0Vj/s1600/IMG_20190125_131243268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdoBB20q7BFZAkkfNdUyPjustJr6dGRJLUoZSXOiBvcWGrYzVqRbsxWUPY6u_Jlnp68_TdwY_tLnULURB5iCCowF9-IgVvQQDHDf33S8LlTMlxAGdCrsBAZ1B5G5SbmWh-w9hyphenhyphenpz0WE0Vj/s640/IMG_20190125_131243268.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ocean is nearly always in sight on Porto Santo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkMfkL5zTv2VFygroeVS32ncaX_hh606nYiAXWrxBCguVxgXUtgcSYvcPCq0pGuWOD9Kp_RlsfSschKqO54Tq23XHVAQTtgHGMi2NTj6XLkZ1jgIxkffzQpK6qTOrFE2K6020y4hn629D/s1600/IMG_20190202_170847060_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkMfkL5zTv2VFygroeVS32ncaX_hh606nYiAXWrxBCguVxgXUtgcSYvcPCq0pGuWOD9Kp_RlsfSschKqO54Tq23XHVAQTtgHGMi2NTj6XLkZ1jgIxkffzQpK6qTOrFE2K6020y4hn629D/s640/IMG_20190202_170847060_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porto Santo's rugged north shore.</td></tr>
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All to soon it was time to head for Gran Canaria and points south. There were still a few ports I wanted to visit enroute to The Gambia. But the more time I spent enroute meant that the was less time available for visiting The Gambia as I wanted to sail from there before the rainy season began.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-45615612168609984262019-01-20T02:35:00.001-08:002019-01-20T02:35:27.006-08:00Ireland and UK<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sailing in the higher latitudes is never easy with frequent weather systems changing the winds every few days.<br />
A few days out of Iceland the wind changed to south. Rather than drifting about and losing distance to the north, I kept Nomad as close hauled to the wind as possible, sailing east, then west. I tacked 75 miles from the Faroe islands resisting the urge to stop and visit, eventually arriving at a point only 10 miles north of where the wind turned against me. After 100 miles of sailing and as planned the wind worked it way around to a usable direction.<br />
The weather fax was now showing a gale force eight west winds arriving a day before I could make any port in Ireland. Deciding that it would be too risky to sail down the west coast in a westerly gale it was time for a change of plans, settling on Lough Swilley. With it's two mile wide entrance, entry should be possible in any conditions.<br />
While in the process of reefing the main as the winds increased, I was quite startled to look forward and see that the jib was missing! It was all on deck and blowing about the bowsprit. Going forward to secure the jib the problem was apparent. The masthead block for the jib halyard had broken leaving me with no way to hoist the jib without a trip up the mast to replace it. Nomad sailed well enough with the wind on the quarter to make the coast, but when it was time to turn south and head down to enter Lough Swilley she lost all speed and I had had to resort to motorsailing to lay my course. This worked out well enough for as Nomad closed the shore the seas built up to a very steep five meters on the beam. Without the sails to steady her it would have been impossible to hold that course.<br />
As in any mountainous area as I got behind the headlands the sea decreased and the wind began to align with the channel, resulting in a very strong headwind. It took Nomad over a hour to cover the last two miles to the beach in Ballymastocker Bay .<br />
Safely at anchor, it was time for a much needed rest. Two days later the wind settled to a more manageable pace and I went to find a place to go ashore and clear in. Seeing a few sailboats in the distance, I headed for Rathmullen and found a pontoon to tie to.<br />
Safely at anchor, it was time for a much needed rest. Two days later the wind settled to a more manageable pace and I went to find a place to go ashore and clear in.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ireland is very green after being in the stark rugged scenery of the north</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad approaching Rathmullen</td></tr>
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The local Garda station was closed, so I went to the first pub right at the end of the dock, ordered a pint of Guinness and asked the owner if she could call the Garda to report my arrival. They arranged for me to get a ride and meet with immigration in a nearby town in two days to get checked in.<br />
My arrival was noted by the locals and was photographed for the local Facebook page. It was a bit odd that the first person I talked with on the dock asked "How was my trip from Iceland?" He had seen Nomad anchored in Ballymastocker on the AIS and had checked me out on MarineTraffic .<br />
The weather had settled so it was time to leave Rathmullen and start working my way around Ireland. This requires meticulous planning due to the frequent weather systems and the fierce tidal currents around the north and east coasts of Ireland. A late night departure to catch the tide put Nomad into Ballycastle to ride out an overnight gale and wait for the morning tide.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fair Head, the entrance to the Irish Sea</td></tr>
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Nomad rounded Fair Head with the following current, reaching speeds a little over eight knots. However the fun only lasts for six hours, then the next six saw speeds down to two knots as we pushed against the tide. I pushed Nomad hard through the night to get into the lee of the shore for an approaching weather system. Unfortunately this put me at the Drogheda jetties right at low tide, so I had to heave to and wait for the tide to refill the river so I could enter. Navigation in Ireland is all about timing you travels with the tide. By late afternoon Nomad was at the Fiddle Case Pier in central Drogheda. With a thousand years of history to explore, every place in Ireland has many stories to tell.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad's berth in Drogheda</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Laurence gate in Drogheda, remnants of the ancient city walls.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Peter's Church in Drogheda. The churches in Ireland are among the most spectacular buildings in the country.</td></tr>
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Drogheda was the beginning of a very special three weeks on Nomad. My Mom flew to Ireland to meet up with me and stay on the boat. This was her first ever overseas trip and the first time she had ever seen Nomad since I purchased her in 2003. With due care to pick flat water for traveling on the water she enjoyed traveling to Arklow and Waterford on Nomad.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscv6DtaUd8jJgwwL1bETJmkiE62WgD9WF3sre-EWgdKholLa1-krd86KgZ-o9C0N65dKJ8GbE2dIqfCiOXUW-W1du-bftVtHCIIqhXqqlOvjy5XMnTBxsGHqO7qNAx0oXnMSpsuhAJTZV/s1600/IMG_20180929_161444731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscv6DtaUd8jJgwwL1bETJmkiE62WgD9WF3sre-EWgdKholLa1-krd86KgZ-o9C0N65dKJ8GbE2dIqfCiOXUW-W1du-bftVtHCIIqhXqqlOvjy5XMnTBxsGHqO7qNAx0oXnMSpsuhAJTZV/s400/IMG_20180929_161444731.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Custom made Waterford crystal artwork.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mount Congreve gardens, Kilmeaden</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterford at night.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18viglxPB7MH2Qm05e48dx7IMc_5iUZgco6_8ZqaeaJIduEEGUWna-1507i45MJ8a_hPgO9_9xkVqPgZUQP6xIQmNcb-JPwnOJdnSfPAr1rBFy6dk6Y9sJKGHQJ_WL7Ao2RwfRzrIu3MI/s1600/IMG_20180930_173106058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18viglxPB7MH2Qm05e48dx7IMc_5iUZgco6_8ZqaeaJIduEEGUWna-1507i45MJ8a_hPgO9_9xkVqPgZUQP6xIQmNcb-JPwnOJdnSfPAr1rBFy6dk6Y9sJKGHQJ_WL7Ao2RwfRzrIu3MI/s400/IMG_20180930_173106058.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tight parking on the pontoon, but it's a great location</td></tr>
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Waterford is quite a ways up the river so it is completely protected from the ocean. There is quite a tidal current in the River Suir and with my usual luck arrived at the half flood with a few knots of current adding to the challenge of parallel parking on the pontoon. The Waterford pontoon was ideal for access for my Mom as it was level with my deck. It’s central location in Waterford was perfect for shopping and a short walk to the bus and train stations. We explored the local history of Waterford and toured the Waterford Crystal factory with it’s impossibly high priced glass artwork. The bus brought us to Cahir and Cashel to explore their castles. We rode the train to Kilkenny and spent the day walking around town and touring the Smithwicks brewery.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The castle at Cashel Rock.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNSO3DhmGDwhpMTTa_7mC_QQro8GmVvMo47IZSgC0JGMDNnBFliFFuWijWlHm3arn3lw5C5KU6ouAOCER_L6JMPpY6qEwVN_QCiqTp0xSE1IV-3GbpEGPIqi5WRK_HpN-ztE50CXn3yuNb/s1600/DSCN2835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNSO3DhmGDwhpMTTa_7mC_QQro8GmVvMo47IZSgC0JGMDNnBFliFFuWijWlHm3arn3lw5C5KU6ouAOCER_L6JMPpY6qEwVN_QCiqTp0xSE1IV-3GbpEGPIqi5WRK_HpN-ztE50CXn3yuNb/s400/DSCN2835.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The castle at Cahir</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hore Abbey seen from Cashel Rock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPDR8_lETPEtSxTmh5fJTcmAzwQ5yuUJpiDeR3tdWakoMPCATKeLB71dTRGwqPf_YoGF8wcB1piYwYYqG7pMYnGhxeS3skj08oFW2TY68ldn3KniwPPlFnu3J6liIjllshKMcK6A9pdi-I/s1600/IMG_20181005_154752602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPDR8_lETPEtSxTmh5fJTcmAzwQ5yuUJpiDeR3tdWakoMPCATKeLB71dTRGwqPf_YoGF8wcB1piYwYYqG7pMYnGhxeS3skj08oFW2TY68ldn3KniwPPlFnu3J6liIjllshKMcK6A9pdi-I/s640/IMG_20181005_154752602.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another exquisitely designed church in Waterford, including Waterford crystal chandeliers.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6R8qkNr5KhgHJa-aa5t_qgINbV4P5vzW0fK5XlQDGP8gZeoh6LznILgwQAkim_LMTDAIwL4laJocOJjNITQ0n2kd0EWKqJMOIBvrDGde9GTHzeyiXewMfBgusaEJUKg9Jg-MhicUxVDOB/s1600/IMG_20181004_152852265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6R8qkNr5KhgHJa-aa5t_qgINbV4P5vzW0fK5XlQDGP8gZeoh6LznILgwQAkim_LMTDAIwL4laJocOJjNITQ0n2kd0EWKqJMOIBvrDGde9GTHzeyiXewMfBgusaEJUKg9Jg-MhicUxVDOB/s640/IMG_20181004_152852265.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bishops palace in Waterford, with Waterford crystal here,too.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj93ixTbF40p63hotLYybGhhYhB541XXkdNgmRHpnS9Nt8X-FVAGlg1q2JTFUxXuFkWgXJDI88LYX06HkZzmVUI6nMDUoTebUsGS1HS1wzXbH1Ww1ga4X_I3CbaykoF3YgCGPT133brg_FE/s1600/IMG_20180930_133445898_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj93ixTbF40p63hotLYybGhhYhB541XXkdNgmRHpnS9Nt8X-FVAGlg1q2JTFUxXuFkWgXJDI88LYX06HkZzmVUI6nMDUoTebUsGS1HS1wzXbH1Ww1ga4X_I3CbaykoF3YgCGPT133brg_FE/s640/IMG_20180930_133445898_HDR.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suir river narrow gauge railway</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMwq_wap3xFzl9ULGI75GJq2dx6zOOGbgybcBR_0pEhQew99U6-BTWvDlwnKa85gyACBx8yKrqQTvQPSo9vGWOPdf1c9JS6ID4DIX5drYd1uNYKhML3619-JSDPFZZwJDclWltuzvdmnN2/s1600/IMG_20181003_171520535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMwq_wap3xFzl9ULGI75GJq2dx6zOOGbgybcBR_0pEhQew99U6-BTWvDlwnKa85gyACBx8yKrqQTvQPSo9vGWOPdf1c9JS6ID4DIX5drYd1uNYKhML3619-JSDPFZZwJDclWltuzvdmnN2/s640/IMG_20181003_171520535.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mom enjoying Cahir castle</td></tr>
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When Mom decided it was time to head home, I focused on the weather, intent on getting across the Bay of Biscay quickly as it was getting late in the year. It seemed stable as far as I and the forecasters could tell so I took a chance to sail to Falmouth UK to meet up with some other junk sailors. Arriving late in the day I made my way up the River Fal and tied to the second pontoon with only one other boat on it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhaWohQv8pU-J_BEeCYsGg1km-JVgqW0ni2ryRes2n4LfFaeOxJCRQnPPSWv6H9AsHW_IpB9ynL23eXB3sh-AMSxXoebl3nZ0jB4uaPZW9CRLzMUuQ_-XhCxiAnmI7PVYTo3zpOYK-qB_/s1600/DSCN2863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhaWohQv8pU-J_BEeCYsGg1km-JVgqW0ni2ryRes2n4LfFaeOxJCRQnPPSWv6H9AsHW_IpB9ynL23eXB3sh-AMSxXoebl3nZ0jB4uaPZW9CRLzMUuQ_-XhCxiAnmI7PVYTo3zpOYK-qB_/s400/DSCN2863.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The entrance to historic Falmouth harbor, UK</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPF0X_Zc9wMudb9CvXTI5JKc3ahhznc5sK84Qm_rKJc2BKlErzP0n4i1N_r6a_XnB93C-hahJfY5E0gTGzuN2Xqlvcb1evu9nFC_vUaz7R3ofFwEe_UgCgwfsBbWbqYfkV26N1v7mgPBD/s1600/IMG_20181019_173136642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPF0X_Zc9wMudb9CvXTI5JKc3ahhznc5sK84Qm_rKJc2BKlErzP0n4i1N_r6a_XnB93C-hahJfY5E0gTGzuN2Xqlvcb1evu9nFC_vUaz7R3ofFwEe_UgCgwfsBbWbqYfkV26N1v7mgPBD/s400/IMG_20181019_173136642.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad on the pontoon, River Fal. These pontoons are not connected to shore, so it's nearly as nice as being at anchor.</td></tr>
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Lynda and David from the Junk Rig Association sailed their boat up to the pontoon to meet me. Later I moved back downriver to a more convenient location anchored in front of Trelissick House. My time in the River Fal was all too brief, I never even got to visit the town of Falmouth. Three days after arriving, the forecast showed a five day period with northerly winds and no gales to Cape Finisterre. I forgot all ideas of checking out the neighborhood and got underway quickly to get across Biscay non-stop. For a change, the forecast was accurate, the gale began building right on schedule as I turned into a protected anchorage to wait out the weather.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-10055741785382818202018-11-20T14:03:00.000-08:002018-11-20T14:03:02.708-08:00Iceland, Nomad's visit to the land of fire and ice.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Nomad departed her winter berth in Conception Bay South Newfoundland on 04 July to head North once again. Destination : Iceland, with a possible stop in South Greenland conditions permitting. In light winds, I motorsailed for two and a half days to get clear of the Grand Banks before an approaching weather system caught up with me. Nomad cleared the Banks just north of the Flemish Cap with a little time to spare. The wind built to near gale strength as forecast from the south which put the wind on the quarter, Nomad’s fastest point of sail. It was a wet and uncomfortable ride but the wind was steady so I was able to carry a good amount of sail without worries of being over canvassed in gusts. By noon the following day conditions were easing and Nomad had logged her best ever twenty four hour run of 186 miles.<br />
Wind and current kept me to the west of the rhumb line to Iceland and about and I got within 250 miles from Prins Christian Sund in Greenland . The wind became light and I was motorsailing again when I noticed that Nomad was only making 2.5 knots. Checking the gearbox temperature and finding it was getting warm, I shut it down . This evoked a healthy bit of impolite language from me. After the troubles in Greenland last year, the gear was still not working right, so I paid a highly regarded transmission shop in Newfoundland to rebuild it for me since I could not find the problem with it. When it was cool, experimentation showed that it could be run at 1110 rpm before it started warming up due to slippage. I decided not to motorsail and save it for making the harbor in Iceland. This was a frustrating moment as I turned away from Prins Christian Sund for the second time in as many years. Being familiar with the conditions in Greenland’s fjords and not wanting to attempt to sail in them without reliable auxiliary power the course was changed to Reykjavik. Once behind the peninsula approaching Reykjavik the wind quit completely and Nomad tediously made her way into the harbor under power at two to three knots.<br />
After two unsuccessful attempts at repairing the gear box it became apparent that the only solution left was replacement. Shipping to Iceland from Europe is surprisingly expensive. I could fly one way to the USA for the same cost as shipping a new gear from Europe. So six days after arriving in Iceland I flew to the USA and did a couple short jobs, flying back to Reykjavik with a new gear as a “personal item” carry on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbFDdQtA5qu8BZFzKBLWKn7aLFSvRtXRCrU7nIpwBO8uWYslfXfip3xteylIGvUwr97nTW_O-UsS3XagHM32PuB6CAO5WQeb2MkDEDfTT_00wPHMWos0O_3YlcvJVXUQ1Bt2GFYx1N_J8/s1600/IMG_20180726_215449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbFDdQtA5qu8BZFzKBLWKn7aLFSvRtXRCrU7nIpwBO8uWYslfXfip3xteylIGvUwr97nTW_O-UsS3XagHM32PuB6CAO5WQeb2MkDEDfTT_00wPHMWos0O_3YlcvJVXUQ1Bt2GFYx1N_J8/s400/IMG_20180726_215449.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nimad at the Brokey Sailing Club docks in Reykjavik.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPd9ZoP5dRlM7fC7jwfRV3vLu4qzf-vJX4r9Oh1JtsCnxwl_tz-wHt037i70rNecOlHtjGWAw57wFFIuq8sT13hR8jA2zgBsqYpoAU7KCIKz_UVbBT4mJ_N4hLjnbcKlUUdnqLlusAP8bC/s1600/IMG_20180819_001322523_LL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPd9ZoP5dRlM7fC7jwfRV3vLu4qzf-vJX4r9Oh1JtsCnxwl_tz-wHt037i70rNecOlHtjGWAw57wFFIuq8sT13hR8jA2zgBsqYpoAU7KCIKz_UVbBT4mJ_N4hLjnbcKlUUdnqLlusAP8bC/s400/IMG_20180819_001322523_LL.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Harpa concert hall at night. The Brokey Sailing Club is conveiconven located right in the heart of Reykjavik.</td></tr>
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It was now the middle of August and darkness was returning at night. It was time to start working my way around the island and head south to avoid repeating last year’s weather challenges from staying in the north too late in the season. I took a short bus trip to catch a glimpse of the interior and reluctantly set sail out of Reykjavik only seven days after returning to Nomad. As long as I kept moving in the right direction, there was time for a little exploring on the way.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKUyDO2s6PvYyvkVeACjRwVC6z2ih6dSksi7ft4a-Egq9U6uHapmOyRd9oU1HbV3427FP5yU3Q_m2A_NHBkZAxIqZLhkkViKzcqxMzVH8xrJnjDEi-i5X9_5b8U7M-5f8WHIABpC5Bf1zt/s1600/DSCN2600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKUyDO2s6PvYyvkVeACjRwVC6z2ih6dSksi7ft4a-Egq9U6uHapmOyRd9oU1HbV3427FP5yU3Q_m2A_NHBkZAxIqZLhkkViKzcqxMzVH8xrJnjDEi-i5X9_5b8U7M-5f8WHIABpC5Bf1zt/s400/DSCN2600.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reykjanes Aukaviti</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizTglI1kE-UdO7PHghf1rdxv6Uccl5_jqGjuMbXfv9M4oUQQSOPWRY42zkgFtTzRCV1Pysjc5ZpxuuMZQRqA3ZjS2N-s96_VlGDQF8dbNYKe3hGQa9ROBr0IOSOIMzlNniUX0yt4AYdaPA/s1600/DSCN2572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizTglI1kE-UdO7PHghf1rdxv6Uccl5_jqGjuMbXfv9M4oUQQSOPWRY42zkgFtTzRCV1Pysjc5ZpxuuMZQRqA3ZjS2N-s96_VlGDQF8dbNYKe3hGQa9ROBr0IOSOIMzlNniUX0yt4AYdaPA/s400/DSCN2572.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iceland' s geography is quite interesting. Hot springs...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidnYchFGFa8OGsDred5cwILAZWen2YL9W8yzV7e0hAjAo1-TtYqKfG6H4ukyX68B0OMdRRdbHC9ioD-vcR4jNwQfyEdCKiiiKhSzmSc0hk_RK5lGOIg14NcpzoVSspm19Egje4zqanRgc8/s1600/DSCN2581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidnYchFGFa8OGsDred5cwILAZWen2YL9W8yzV7e0hAjAo1-TtYqKfG6H4ukyX68B0OMdRRdbHC9ioD-vcR4jNwQfyEdCKiiiKhSzmSc0hk_RK5lGOIg14NcpzoVSspm19Egje4zqanRgc8/s400/DSCN2581.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geysers...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0BbfCzLHepxzTPd7I9e45PjYbgUvTAfLbpAqlC1IJdOeDRh84hiaEoKujeS-9CFywQ8gnpQfQu_phgiMB6We_XrjAQ6Wrry8AegM7SaQRn1TCsq1WRTHUyAJb7GDozPi0k1_j6wqq6LV/s1600/DSCN2589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0BbfCzLHepxzTPd7I9e45PjYbgUvTAfLbpAqlC1IJdOeDRh84hiaEoKujeS-9CFywQ8gnpQfQu_phgiMB6We_XrjAQ6Wrry8AegM7SaQRn1TCsq1WRTHUyAJb7GDozPi0k1_j6wqq6LV/s400/DSCN2589.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even the ditches along the road have hot water in them.</td></tr>
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Twenty six hours out of Reykjavik, Nomad was rafted up to the F/V Maggy in the very secure harbor in Vestmannaeyjar island. A volcanic eruption had made the island larger and nearly closed off the harbor entrance a few years back. The resulting narrowing of the entrance provides a nearly surge free harbor even when a storm is blowing directly in. There are a number of walking trails and some good climbing around the island. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBpx5uaT2_Hgr70Ov8TQP-VOlbRBGILvJlHQII8Kg4HldWL0MzOg9NWGI9_mXMD5OtajTue3jhfAFAmByHcwc2RPe_aPZsDyynwbR2ju2ctaheOK4sVT1lniSISkIVp1FTCVgbbYAvO50Q/s1600/DSCN2632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBpx5uaT2_Hgr70Ov8TQP-VOlbRBGILvJlHQII8Kg4HldWL0MzOg9NWGI9_mXMD5OtajTue3jhfAFAmByHcwc2RPe_aPZsDyynwbR2ju2ctaheOK4sVT1lniSISkIVp1FTCVgbbYAvO50Q/s400/DSCN2632.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad's berth in Vestmannaeyjer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-mFHxwuBjZyzyVmb6gQDQMP6aP-5vGUwMuUfAtS7E77TxvtEBf4owq_xqCWchS3tzZzbCpX6cQlZrbAa7mUo_S1lxdx45a9o3zbu8KAbRFjUF1NgJJHukWmjQ1qs0F4gk0qp_G96Etq_/s1600/DSCN2643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-mFHxwuBjZyzyVmb6gQDQMP6aP-5vGUwMuUfAtS7E77TxvtEBf4owq_xqCWchS3tzZzbCpX6cQlZrbAa7mUo_S1lxdx45a9o3zbu8KAbRFjUF1NgJJHukWmjQ1qs0F4gk0qp_G96Etq_/s400/DSCN2643.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vestmannaeyjer town from the 290 meter Heimaklettur.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcFq3vd4FFDxVfpa24Fx_Yxf4gfdZySO_9Z-BlUTyCMqCy55eULhY61K4i1XA5zPIGsOy_k9EOKChuTEypRzo9m0k4SCmBUOzcikKILnW4gGINXt5NWxy72FkMXdkHiFUIUjy8rb5vmwij/s1600/IMG_20180827_191409363_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcFq3vd4FFDxVfpa24Fx_Yxf4gfdZySO_9Z-BlUTyCMqCy55eULhY61K4i1XA5zPIGsOy_k9EOKChuTEypRzo9m0k4SCmBUOzcikKILnW4gGINXt5NWxy72FkMXdkHiFUIUjy8rb5vmwij/s400/IMG_20180827_191409363_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entry to the snug Vestmannaeyjer harbor.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vestmannaeyjer dead ahead after a long day and night</td></tr>
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Like all Icelandic towns, there’s the usual public pool. Thanks to abundant geothermal energy there is no shortage of hot water. Public pools all have warm swimming pools, hot tubs and steam rooms. No reason to shower on the boat when one can shower at the pool and then spend half a day playing in warm water.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vatnajokull glacier close to the ocean.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The haborh in Hofn, up the Hornafjordur</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vatnajokull icecap and glacier.</td></tr>
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A day and a half sail from Vestmannaeyjar islands brought Nomad to the town of Hofn in Hornafjordur. Sailing along the coast provided great views of the nearby ice cap and mountains. Despite my best efforts at keeping Nomad moving briskly I missed slack water at the Hornafjordur jetties by two hours. The seas were beginning to break partway across the entrance as the outgoing tide met the swell. The new gearbox worked without complaint as I powered against the ebb current, occasionally slowed to 1.5 knots. Slowly Nomad made her way through the harbor and found a dock to lay on in the inner basin at 2130. Hornafjordur is on the SE corner if Iceland making it the logical place to head south from. I spent a pleasant but all to brief visit checking out the area including several visits to the local pool. Ever mindful of the lateness of the season and increasing storm frequency I sailed for Ireland after only four days here. Iceland makes clearing out simple. Once I saw the weather forecast was in my favor, I called Iceland Coast Guard radio on the VHF for clearance. They instructed me to scan and email them the documents and by the next morning clearance papers arrived via email and I was able to leave promptly at high tide. Iceland is another place that I would like to visit again and spend more time exploring their fascinating culture and geography.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-69585267958385124762017-11-25T17:18:00.000-08:002017-11-25T17:18:22.741-08:00West Coast of Greenland in Pictures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Greenland emerging from the fog</div>
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Nuuk and the surrounding mountains<br />
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Sisimiut<br />
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Disko Bay and Illulissat<br />
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Northe entrance to Smallesund and Torsukkatak<br />
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Ritenbank<br />
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Disko Island<br />
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Refueling Aasiaat<br />
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Faeringehavn<br />
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Nordafar fish Plant<br />
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Paamiut<br />
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Greenlandic fishing boat<br />
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Aurora Borealis<br />
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Quaqortoq<br />
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Russian sailboat<br />
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Hvalsey<br />
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Tunullit<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-50447062481164624732017-11-21T11:29:00.001-08:002017-11-21T11:29:32.173-08:00Nomad's Summer in Greenland Part 3: Aasiaat to Newfoundland<style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }</style>
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<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhryOyOOQwizmZI8NCNIlAUMWWxRVIXxIbbqbO29CakzCySHhW9ZsFNpuONAy0o-5ZqnVtvMsZS9cBni_kmp2ZKnAsKkWTMknIQPGe8VQOSjMcTtq6PwKvCYEIjdOLsjJbuzAOZsfR3V67J/s1600/DSCN1690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhryOyOOQwizmZI8NCNIlAUMWWxRVIXxIbbqbO29CakzCySHhW9ZsFNpuONAy0o-5ZqnVtvMsZS9cBni_kmp2ZKnAsKkWTMknIQPGe8VQOSjMcTtq6PwKvCYEIjdOLsjJbuzAOZsfR3V67J/s640/DSCN1690.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calm before the storm.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Repairing the gear
was an unwanted five days lost of the very short Arctic sailing
season. Although the Greenland coast can easily be cruised well into
December the periods of reasonable sailing conditions between storms
for sailing away from Greenland begins to diminish rapidly in
September. It was with some urgency that I sailed from Aasiaat to
begin the long journey south. In the last week of August, darkness
was returning to the night sky, and Nomad was more than six hundred
miles north of the southern tip of Greenland. Sailing with a good
forecast is no guarantee of a smooth passage. The forecasters got it
mostly right this time but the wind was considerably stronger than
predicted, blowing a full gale. I learned later in Nuuk that they had
only changed the forecast about twelve hours before the storm arrived
there. Nomad made good, but uncomfortable, progress south under sail
alone for only the second time since arriving in Greenland.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBWLoy350QkX0y1beX49xdPMsl8AM99tqtaXu5FRbJzT3nxHagvsb4h6qyPH7_5VaDui2sTeiJ9S0kosaDD31rfIMUxNsNZ4fi9Jnjco7sncT88JCpB6k1606t-o4j4M6I1bT5fS0urYZ0/s1600/DSCN1699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBWLoy350QkX0y1beX49xdPMsl8AM99tqtaXu5FRbJzT3nxHagvsb4h6qyPH7_5VaDui2sTeiJ9S0kosaDD31rfIMUxNsNZ4fi9Jnjco7sncT88JCpB6k1606t-o4j4M6I1bT5fS0urYZ0/s640/DSCN1699.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nuuk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPbs9nUkYjHP5FyCMbQwcHlSMFWUZave5zbzdnWWmFyJmmRp-n_Wl85toQCcHcaMEgkFtakTPiQaysuOJCv-RDYcIMwIwsjTj51wJO3VDjm9ImY2stgv4-udzIv7rWD0RTkrW2l76K-YA/s1600/DSCN1706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPbs9nUkYjHP5FyCMbQwcHlSMFWUZave5zbzdnWWmFyJmmRp-n_Wl85toQCcHcaMEgkFtakTPiQaysuOJCv-RDYcIMwIwsjTj51wJO3VDjm9ImY2stgv4-udzIv7rWD0RTkrW2l76K-YA/s640/DSCN1706.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing boats in Nuuk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I
arrived in Nuuk on a rare clear calm day affording a scenic view of
the town approaching from the sea. Rafted up to Destiny with Andy
and Janice onboard we exchanged information on anchorages and harbors
as we were going in opposite directions. Learning that the area
around Faeringehavn was worth exploring I decided to make that my
next stop on the way south. Faeringehavn is an abandoned settlement
at the entrance to Kangerluarsoruseq with reasonable protection from
the sea although some swell enters with a south west wind.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLc7OABOXAe7GYPpwq1DLNjr19ACunZT3yRXn9mGtympVFQIFYm59ei9IsKXKZ6-eNiLp4gb2T5T1XMyKM1WJL54GT9FZR2p3oTqKg6KRADrYnUVhkxswnkoMhUh8lt7fl6PizVgA6d4k/s1600/DSCN1727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLc7OABOXAe7GYPpwq1DLNjr19ACunZT3yRXn9mGtympVFQIFYm59ei9IsKXKZ6-eNiLp4gb2T5T1XMyKM1WJL54GT9FZR2p3oTqKg6KRADrYnUVhkxswnkoMhUh8lt7fl6PizVgA6d4k/s640/DSCN1727.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faeringehavn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8lh3TgaifX0JabNHQHyJ0hgyO_nr3La55kjXLAoXm5y8v1bEQx0pPDumJ0ecSgqDK7mgwkeGEgb0tIslFW2K3CohojjRJdivzfbq-2RdafYSgIKpmvLQbgxPabYT481pSKp_HiG8HPoH/s1600/DSCN1783.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8lh3TgaifX0JabNHQHyJ0hgyO_nr3La55kjXLAoXm5y8v1bEQx0pPDumJ0ecSgqDK7mgwkeGEgb0tIslFW2K3CohojjRJdivzfbq-2RdafYSgIKpmvLQbgxPabYT481pSKp_HiG8HPoH/s640/DSCN1783.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out to sea from the hills above Faeringehavn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Small
boats sometimes stop for the night to camp out in the empty buildings
here. The holding is marginal behind the large island, I found a lot
of kelp on the bottom and was drifting towards a rocky island
directly astern at about one boat length per day. I re anchored
closer to shore and put a line ashore for added security.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mP68Tv-xbkg5t9hhURrNBloBOXJC2SOVduwRulcOq_l6Y-3DJOM3xI2ct9JLYMeBnyiklxXaA55gFKK8RmbICtaXqDXsUu-_Dz9I_dhxvYgJkDSqs80sGWp11784RiVXDJBtgcmB4UnX/s1600/DSCN1770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-mP68Tv-xbkg5t9hhURrNBloBOXJC2SOVduwRulcOq_l6Y-3DJOM3xI2ct9JLYMeBnyiklxXaA55gFKK8RmbICtaXqDXsUu-_Dz9I_dhxvYgJkDSqs80sGWp11784RiVXDJBtgcmB4UnX/s640/DSCN1770.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tied to the shore at Faeringehavn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There is
great hiking in the mountains and many interesting buildings to
explore here as well as an old wreck stranded in a cove. It is
possible to get in the very well protected cove behind the settlement
but it needs to be explored in the dinghy first as it is a very
narrow entrance between submerged boulders. The cove with the wreck
would be a very protected location if heavy weather was forecast.
Surprisingly there was an excellent cellular signal here from a
mountain top tower just to the north enabling me to get daily weather
forecasts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH1dfyYTCYCCy50872_7fzpnQZMQnEuXSYL9vjpIsQCptsxcrJHb4YwW9aUwBXzBrJMuTiBxN2esuddoliTuTVgznvtXaE8EjTMmCeEuB9thQpwLuLjUq5Tw04nB3KTwvY_hHSyKaciy-3/s1600/DSCN1742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH1dfyYTCYCCy50872_7fzpnQZMQnEuXSYL9vjpIsQCptsxcrJHb4YwW9aUwBXzBrJMuTiBxN2esuddoliTuTVgznvtXaE8EjTMmCeEuB9thQpwLuLjUq5Tw04nB3KTwvY_hHSyKaciy-3/s640/DSCN1742.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the structures were decaying,</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2SqTa1CjVA_lmOxow7UVUS7jnoKEhgtJRe-Vw1UIkAHoFittT24dpTOdLK4q_5Vb2Q40wE0E23GONmaqfrYuEXmW2P1P1bh3FBxXfk9YkRMyJWSe_SPRDCoDTY6GTD7wpnHXc_GXqsCQ/s1600/DSCN1778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2SqTa1CjVA_lmOxow7UVUS7jnoKEhgtJRe-Vw1UIkAHoFittT24dpTOdLK4q_5Vb2Q40wE0E23GONmaqfrYuEXmW2P1P1bh3FBxXfk9YkRMyJWSe_SPRDCoDTY6GTD7wpnHXc_GXqsCQ/s640/DSCN1778.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wreck grounded in a cove further inland from the village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0QKA2u1LaTEgq-4D396qFP9Fsyrk0j1ypIORjgtdCXynhJaMc_HWrgKEmMuyDnd7KDZl2aQmxcrJfBddGO4v9n3tkTohBTvQmwTlabDCVjELFtCnB_NbYHUPWFArfedJcu1FWlWTuNuO/s1600/DSCN1762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw0QKA2u1LaTEgq-4D396qFP9Fsyrk0j1ypIORjgtdCXynhJaMc_HWrgKEmMuyDnd7KDZl2aQmxcrJfBddGO4v9n3tkTohBTvQmwTlabDCVjELFtCnB_NbYHUPWFArfedJcu1FWlWTuNuO/s640/DSCN1762.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old fishing boat at low tide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT7feGGtTXMF_DhYG6b0C2ihyphenhyphen3krOHuGgG-dFs_rnBDyK0jN4WHSL06g_jzC8XWl9sz1lP7wNU8uMF_PLrG0yOTvRZDu042Z1kpymRw7pq1EN2O6dhOzTwMQEAvvW3CNMGTi-k_Jrdk_Pi/s1600/DSCN1747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT7feGGtTXMF_DhYG6b0C2ihyphenhyphen3krOHuGgG-dFs_rnBDyK0jN4WHSL06g_jzC8XWl9sz1lP7wNU8uMF_PLrG0yOTvRZDu042Z1kpymRw7pq1EN2O6dhOzTwMQEAvvW3CNMGTi-k_Jrdk_Pi/s640/DSCN1747.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power station at Faeringehavn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Six miles further up the fjord is the abandoned Nordafar
fish plant. There is a good anchorage area about a mile north of the
plant. It was a very intriguing place to explore with all the
buildings still standing an much machinery left behind.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlVzgt1KYS020GrXgS6qrvDVLSI3QBG9feTafXiA5nrFrRZ6UMHqrERv09Su7lNJN_GUhLQjbu1qQPcxhL14s_pCRLxht2tKDOYuaipogwqJNcCsIe6a87yvzji9xI6HqyDGX5ZIABNEI/s1600/DSCN1805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlVzgt1KYS020GrXgS6qrvDVLSI3QBG9feTafXiA5nrFrRZ6UMHqrERv09Su7lNJN_GUhLQjbu1qQPcxhL14s_pCRLxht2tKDOYuaipogwqJNcCsIe6a87yvzji9xI6HqyDGX5ZIABNEI/s640/DSCN1805.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nordafar fish plant slowly disintegrating </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVqsPHQXDUlCCGmjEZbsZIN4xWOWFod3QwEfuttm-CB-CbxQWT6PFTm5j4u2Zlpk49Hh8hpoua66vnKacxohR07jYWcqHdnszxwy9FJd4OY6Pps_8KaHzAcRoqZcQmTDdZATCz1AmazrtG/s1600/DSCN1811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVqsPHQXDUlCCGmjEZbsZIN4xWOWFod3QwEfuttm-CB-CbxQWT6PFTm5j4u2Zlpk49Hh8hpoua66vnKacxohR07jYWcqHdnszxwy9FJd4OY6Pps_8KaHzAcRoqZcQmTDdZATCz1AmazrtG/s640/DSCN1811.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marine railway at Nordafar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzp5QCa-QxpAwQK6mzHrVXRKSAeRwassx74hjHhyphenhyphenStVRNM16jFeNc1iG4qIQxup2EurAOqwojHFP9kCczr6TkzuMCsWZdbuig5t9PaSSFz3MrSkRgIHu8bOvLqv4qh-J2yG3r-_198G1i7/s1600/DSCN1816.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzp5QCa-QxpAwQK6mzHrVXRKSAeRwassx74hjHhyphenhyphenStVRNM16jFeNc1iG4qIQxup2EurAOqwojHFP9kCczr6TkzuMCsWZdbuig5t9PaSSFz3MrSkRgIHu8bOvLqv4qh-J2yG3r-_198G1i7/s640/DSCN1816.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Machine shop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHsic54iFFiE4DWyhrNMc4Y-V6ViPouK9JDvd9-UivUuhKAS1o10qL7GdinoULU_VGtUSmdGsd-x4UyOh-Hx3yAZjLlLXi7iovucjqU2byZecCK_gA-40XdoJugP34Ggd7Y7QyIWqycpU/s1600/DSCN1831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHsic54iFFiE4DWyhrNMc4Y-V6ViPouK9JDvd9-UivUuhKAS1o10qL7GdinoULU_VGtUSmdGsd-x4UyOh-Hx3yAZjLlLXi7iovucjqU2byZecCK_gA-40XdoJugP34Ggd7Y7QyIWqycpU/s640/DSCN1831.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the fish plant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The locals
have a penchant for vandalizing abandoned settlements, but I have
never seen such a completely trashed place anywhere. Anything that
was possible to smash or overturn was in every room of every
building. With no one to ask about it I can only surmise that the
people that lived in the company town were were not happy with life
there and had vented there anger on the facility as the left it.
Nonetheless it was a very interesting place to explore.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhW7Dlc93wHnj0p9P43HNprtozDrw5tBYJzMcwy1CqjU8lGnvq8NQVyWjyI007B1x4suEbwD1i_gCPq_9HnpgSgB98bN4LU4F6d9wBXUawYW7UGLEwKPrefNYgPbhi8ixnekKPw-qF2hL4/s1600/DSCN1841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhW7Dlc93wHnj0p9P43HNprtozDrw5tBYJzMcwy1CqjU8lGnvq8NQVyWjyI007B1x4suEbwD1i_gCPq_9HnpgSgB98bN4LU4F6d9wBXUawYW7UGLEwKPrefNYgPbhi8ixnekKPw-qF2hL4/s640/DSCN1841.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical of the vandalism found in every building.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ffmF7TjTx_l1S1T79VmWCZhm6PV0xG1OFky504n_Lb9TsrAoe6oA0w8gWBBvEPJIebaBN4oiRCsV4IW38OmQFO6LCMzyWWZnVGiIDpuPWVX3ejJXkcMyF4xHL0dS2CwzLCLzdXX_rGhb/s1600/DSCN1822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ffmF7TjTx_l1S1T79VmWCZhm6PV0xG1OFky504n_Lb9TsrAoe6oA0w8gWBBvEPJIebaBN4oiRCsV4IW38OmQFO6LCMzyWWZnVGiIDpuPWVX3ejJXkcMyF4xHL0dS2CwzLCLzdXX_rGhb/s640/DSCN1822.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power plant at Nordafar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UbPI8AXgSESJo54rVcacNeppa-P01U9PueW4E4twunaz2tsKDV3cl2htnY6xR71DkwDKu-pscNLPKL3PfrAPnB5YjG77rEnRWWLaopFCJCVnoYVfY3KM7sDTp6lnX0shiG8e8tmtsv1_/s1600/DSCN1848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UbPI8AXgSESJo54rVcacNeppa-P01U9PueW4E4twunaz2tsKDV3cl2htnY6xR71DkwDKu-pscNLPKL3PfrAPnB5YjG77rEnRWWLaopFCJCVnoYVfY3KM7sDTp6lnX0shiG8e8tmtsv1_/s640/DSCN1848.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Community center/school</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finding that
the cell signal was too weak to check the weather, I returned to my
previous anchorage in Faeringehavn. Nomad arrived in Paamiut
following an overnight passage motoring on the calm windless ocean.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioRODai77L94jl1dUj_Mcp4Ju80zayCKCft5tFUrbnVp-dMQcEb2VYDQBko2fs0dpxedl5_5FXgPJwVj5Fc4YOPL905qRfgLi9GebhTyA5PKSof-QkdRPUSCrXlxiSr6WQb8NO67ZBWlsK/s1600/DSCN1873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioRODai77L94jl1dUj_Mcp4Ju80zayCKCft5tFUrbnVp-dMQcEb2VYDQBko2fs0dpxedl5_5FXgPJwVj5Fc4YOPL905qRfgLi9GebhTyA5PKSof-QkdRPUSCrXlxiSr6WQb8NO67ZBWlsK/s640/DSCN1873.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise near Paamiut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18bGQbgzUouypBdJBBsaHmzKFB2h5Kiz_czJkOlNO9ulRFRdnWVRpm0DA6onelCXcGqvSOL5S2QAvkTk06xq0Tb79O8F_rA86ChaGQIvHvwCaCEUmMBEnIWvixQbfFjps7n_sdFE8HgG0/s1600/DSCN1875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18bGQbgzUouypBdJBBsaHmzKFB2h5Kiz_czJkOlNO9ulRFRdnWVRpm0DA6onelCXcGqvSOL5S2QAvkTk06xq0Tb79O8F_rA86ChaGQIvHvwCaCEUmMBEnIWvixQbfFjps7n_sdFE8HgG0/s640/DSCN1875.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shipwreck marks the hidden entrance to Paamiut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Refueling there was simple, the gas station ashore had a diesel hose
long enough to reach anywhere on the wharf. Nomad lay longside the
wharf in Pammiut for nine days while I caught up on maintenance and
began building a new hatch. Paamiut is a small town of fifteen
hundred people with all shops just a short walk from the wharf. The
people here are very friendly and many stopped by to visit. I learned
much about life in a small remote Greenland community here and had my
first reindeer dinner.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhrlxcoSkM_HBUKIhyphenhyphenMgE7qhWY8YrTFMUxSWXMlDOGSCBxfAIZ0O201E9ZTiRx-6TlEkc6DxPtx7XxMK_xwMG8VYoENhD_c3DAu_Nme0D-_gfa5RNfZDmRihtzOCCJ8Vbbj6NUhZBTV2k/s1600/DSCN1877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhrlxcoSkM_HBUKIhyphenhyphenMgE7qhWY8YrTFMUxSWXMlDOGSCBxfAIZ0O201E9ZTiRx-6TlEkc6DxPtx7XxMK_xwMG8VYoENhD_c3DAu_Nme0D-_gfa5RNfZDmRihtzOCCJ8Vbbj6NUhZBTV2k/s640/DSCN1877.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low tide at Paamiut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With a good sailing wind I departed Paamiut
bound for the inside passage at Nunarsuit , the large island at Kap
Desolation. The wind increased overnight and I had to reef several
times to keep my speed down and avoid arriving at the rocky entrance
to Nunarsuit before sunrise. All sail was dropped with a twenty five
knot breeze over the stern and I motored into the Torsukattak
channel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQu-9qbnmyzYuH1ieUOYQ6xM9ce4e-RQ7mCMAfIWKDX-4LkBfmAasWP9u77JRQaDPHrThAZY48zDlkrRALpejCba5yBSgo1VoqIEb2hTxAQ72T6NPbLD61SXS1RUNPZbEa-M-FJ7dZZfJ/s1600/DSCN1882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQu-9qbnmyzYuH1ieUOYQ6xM9ce4e-RQ7mCMAfIWKDX-4LkBfmAasWP9u77JRQaDPHrThAZY48zDlkrRALpejCba5yBSgo1VoqIEb2hTxAQ72T6NPbLD61SXS1RUNPZbEa-M-FJ7dZZfJ/s640/DSCN1882.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Nunarsuit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As is usual the wind increased and aligned with the fjord as
I made my way inside. Violent blasts of katabatic winds threatened
to spin Nomad around even with no sails up. These could be heard
roaring off the mountains several seconds before they hit. The winds
remained strong all day all though the random blasts subsided after
passing through the very narrow but deep Knaekket . I anchored Nomad
in Bangs Havn for some much needed rest.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaq8zWbNIdeRHnWGq2Srb0A55GnKJ9_EYdRyBmJPtRfr41NPkN3a3Jum92fBf4MwD7htPjDHBHHN8wnd4E3bFjoNvY9P8WNQ1XD8zZrZEXI4x-wB5DZjO-7MZG46sTtJBPcjhbO7WvoSrm/s1600/DSCN1970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaq8zWbNIdeRHnWGq2Srb0A55GnKJ9_EYdRyBmJPtRfr41NPkN3a3Jum92fBf4MwD7htPjDHBHHN8wnd4E3bFjoNvY9P8WNQ1XD8zZrZEXI4x-wB5DZjO-7MZG46sTtJBPcjhbO7WvoSrm/s640/DSCN1970.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inland passages were full of icebergs </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There were numerous
icebergs floating around as I made my way into the tiny, ice free
anchorage at Tunulliatsiaap Nunaa. The sunset was magnificent
Illuminating the rocks and icebergs with reds and golds reflecting on
the still waters. I ducked below to make dinner as the temperature
plunged below freezing without the sun. Opening the hatch to toss out
some onion skins, I was awestruck by the sight of the the sky
shimmering in the green waves of the aurora borealis. Dinner
forgotten, I sat on deck watching the aurora until they faded away .
I had not expected to see the aurora at this time of the year and I
had never seen the colored aurora before, only white sheet like
displays. There were numerous icebergs to dodge crossing the
Braedefjord but I was able to get through to Tugtutoq island without
a lengthy detour offshore. Sildefjord is at the east end of Tugtutoq
island and has a well protected basin to anchor in at the end of the
fjord.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCKPNgc_ViY67X7QN8ieCiFQsg0fK2nIR5h932s7LZVvveNLyO96PkNhMtgtXypTEkyIeMg3w5Cbvfz_eWCGrCy-DtxvgGCuswjrZzydy1RrD5dB-gaDKfhHhjorg15tSRIorUxPzEBdC/s1600/DSCN2112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCKPNgc_ViY67X7QN8ieCiFQsg0fK2nIR5h932s7LZVvveNLyO96PkNhMtgtXypTEkyIeMg3w5Cbvfz_eWCGrCy-DtxvgGCuswjrZzydy1RrD5dB-gaDKfhHhjorg15tSRIorUxPzEBdC/s640/DSCN2112.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad in the well protected anchorage in Tugtutoq island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrH5IPq27A4FdXvM_eTv5Ttsk2gSnK15ty8PpKRFd7nIjGOQzOyJ89XGj1Zq-DeuN6PYMynyHZ60f5QucSpHMyvus61uJyJ5n8JpZmUqSsSbpQb4S238FgHkhyphenhyphenBH00C7DzrlioJ5F8lW8/s1600/DSCN2098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrH5IPq27A4FdXvM_eTv5Ttsk2gSnK15ty8PpKRFd7nIjGOQzOyJ89XGj1Zq-DeuN6PYMynyHZ60f5QucSpHMyvus61uJyJ5n8JpZmUqSsSbpQb4S238FgHkhyphenhyphenBH00C7DzrlioJ5F8lW8/s640/DSCN2098.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sun sets at the end of this canyon.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_60QgC8HPat5zXIeI3NHW6ECG5CDmEXimwUEEpESlRSYPPIJLVx-0jrRWPRbZs8GJPJob-Blm72TidiKT3BSR_8UIDQCqZfRharf02fvCY1RIcvY7jTvLyIxVPsoZk4usXGt5tXEGFGw/s1600/DSCN2104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_60QgC8HPat5zXIeI3NHW6ECG5CDmEXimwUEEpESlRSYPPIJLVx-0jrRWPRbZs8GJPJob-Blm72TidiKT3BSR_8UIDQCqZfRharf02fvCY1RIcvY7jTvLyIxVPsoZk4usXGt5tXEGFGw/s640/DSCN2104.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tugtutoq is only twelve miles south of the ice cap. Wind from the north is very cold here.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Climbing the mountains,there were many patches of blueberries
and the ice cap was clearly visible from the top across the
Braedefjord with its numerous bergs. The sun was setting in the
canyon to the west as I made my way back to sea level. A few
reindeer had also come down at sunset, but I did not see them until
after I returned to the boat. After sunset a few green streamers
appeared at the mountaintops and slowly developed into a brilliant
display of the aurora covering the entire sky above the fjord.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyS8-oX6SyJkuBBKl5ALoPAbNOUVsxe0EfudR822hQJfjZRZ7kyGZhZS92_M9kMP6WhbZeFJ4onzh-h6XUZ1t1BWlSVxMVNw9lEKsF_LM_CXu5M58gaDhkWtmPxBB9ojR-b80Uyd6r4AgH/s1600/DSCN2009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyS8-oX6SyJkuBBKl5ALoPAbNOUVsxe0EfudR822hQJfjZRZ7kyGZhZS92_M9kMP6WhbZeFJ4onzh-h6XUZ1t1BWlSVxMVNw9lEKsF_LM_CXu5M58gaDhkWtmPxBB9ojR-b80Uyd6r4AgH/s640/DSCN2009.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The nightly Aurora Borealis is spectacular! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkHNHR1rlRRzkikr-BOe5U8ojsd-DqxL_VaEbFS7TeJuL-V5dDNB2SEjCQaqabEY086egsYmVyon9WpQ3pPcYJSot9Yqxe5r0J80uo4X-m8-WdLJqDBqorDDphE_zaMxVNy-dzUCJ82pJn/s1600/DSCN2046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkHNHR1rlRRzkikr-BOe5U8ojsd-DqxL_VaEbFS7TeJuL-V5dDNB2SEjCQaqabEY086egsYmVyon9WpQ3pPcYJSot9Yqxe5r0J80uo4X-m8-WdLJqDBqorDDphE_zaMxVNy-dzUCJ82pJn/s640/DSCN2046.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Aurora streaming off the mountain top as it begins to grow.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The
boat was surrounded by fresh ice in the morning again and my wet
laundry was frozen solid on the lifelines so I reluctantly decided
to move on before I got frozen in.<br />
Quaqortoq has a busy harbor and
is the largest town in southern Greenland. Nomad was comfortably
rafted up to a fishing boat on the far side of the harbor where I
changed the oil and topped off the fuel tanks again. Ten miles up
Quaqortoq fjord lies the ancient Norse village of Hvalsey.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPfRj0bNgWIGWmUgSfBWrbp76Lx0-xMm2c2PsqbAHDyO6D3R9dzhZpQEekGuE6ZX4U0bp1IOeu1F8-89UjkuHFkl3ilOfMEl2S20JolpF4i4a27gQ-FV2LEnpN0JHeqMeVLJkurMFN-vV/s1600/DSCN2138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPfRj0bNgWIGWmUgSfBWrbp76Lx0-xMm2c2PsqbAHDyO6D3R9dzhZpQEekGuE6ZX4U0bp1IOeu1F8-89UjkuHFkl3ilOfMEl2S20JolpF4i4a27gQ-FV2LEnpN0JHeqMeVLJkurMFN-vV/s640/DSCN2138.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quaqortoq fjord</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpMGkaCVljb9Nd-CZyPN_2yga-brta-X1p7R4JFhxOemBoqZBm-DOmu2qPaVk4AveuZp-0aRgEbN4mZ28qIjlKV0HowWj4ytQRQt6XE1EGrjAtZ7rDSCxe5fCuFMjTu5utxlhbmZrQpviz/s1600/DSCN2146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpMGkaCVljb9Nd-CZyPN_2yga-brta-X1p7R4JFhxOemBoqZBm-DOmu2qPaVk4AveuZp-0aRgEbN4mZ28qIjlKV0HowWj4ytQRQt6XE1EGrjAtZ7rDSCxe5fCuFMjTu5utxlhbmZrQpviz/s640/DSCN2146.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ancient Norse ruins at Hvalsey</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hvalsey_Church" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hvalsey_Church</a><br />
<br />
This is
the best preserved Norse ruins in Greenland. I spent two days
anchored at Hvalsey hiking and examining the ruins in an absolute
windless silence before returning to Quaqortoq.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiky34aAm2m7y-o0JI8-wr3PMKB5IesnpnNNiUCqWI2wILV9yxpg6dcUnP6LSNPYaywdAHeOzhskxvm2OAbvTLft0ASUhyrxxtNP8XfFr3hWqo52F-ilHd3htmKT18828vWGVAuXhcvTwUf/s1600/DSCN2224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiky34aAm2m7y-o0JI8-wr3PMKB5IesnpnNNiUCqWI2wILV9yxpg6dcUnP6LSNPYaywdAHeOzhskxvm2OAbvTLft0ASUhyrxxtNP8XfFr3hWqo52F-ilHd3htmKT18828vWGVAuXhcvTwUf/s640/DSCN2224.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking at Kape Egede from Tunullit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tunullit is a
protected harbor opposite Alluitsup Paa although it did get a bit of
surge inside from a distant storm passing offshore. The scenery is
impressive with snow covered mountains and Kap Egede visible in the
distance. Good hiking, fresh water streams and a herd of sheep are
the shoreside attractions here. There is a cell signal in the
anchorage, but reception is better up in the hills as the antenna is
blocked by the island at sea level.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPKkKYqzcpJBPRrN7nioGxd4HcbO5Af1g0tf0tdbhy1_cA7X9A8BoIFzthEFJyH6i937p6XbQmkGXhQrvMkxNJqZ7xiDIZBT45aaxhMiRc0KWJkflDboC23Um0MlEe-7GuAmW7hYuJpDb/s1600/DSCN2248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPKkKYqzcpJBPRrN7nioGxd4HcbO5Af1g0tf0tdbhy1_cA7X9A8BoIFzthEFJyH6i937p6XbQmkGXhQrvMkxNJqZ7xiDIZBT45aaxhMiRc0KWJkflDboC23Um0MlEe-7GuAmW7hYuJpDb/s640/DSCN2248.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alluitsup Paa. The Tunillit anchorage is behind this village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Uunartoq fjord has an island
with a hot spring on it. Not wanting to anchor near some icebergs I
went around the island, passing between it and the closest small
island finding thirty feet of water, and anchored on the east side
which worked well for an expected wind shift overnight. I thoroughly
enjoyed a long soak in the hot spring until it was time to get out
of it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl2Ug4uZnNFFKWKP-0KM-dvx9uLHYwVsTV64bNQU_GW5IvBIv0IbC3GWlP27UKubE0nKEUlUNNGu-E2cwIfZV-HBQT3hMxKJdHYLIaJAPswcL9FISLPGJaH8dsNYis9B9jUEPkPmawcUhf/s1600/DSCN2260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl2Ug4uZnNFFKWKP-0KM-dvx9uLHYwVsTV64bNQU_GW5IvBIv0IbC3GWlP27UKubE0nKEUlUNNGu-E2cwIfZV-HBQT3hMxKJdHYLIaJAPswcL9FISLPGJaH8dsNYis9B9jUEPkPmawcUhf/s640/DSCN2260.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The warm waters of the hot spring were a stark contrast to the cold and rainy air. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Standing up from the warm water into the light rain with a
breeze blowing across the icebergs in the fjord was a chilling
experience! Rounding the forbidding, fog shrouded Kap Egede rather
closer than I should have in a large confused swell, the other side
was clear and sunny as Nomad made her way between the rocks and
icebergs into Nanortalik at sunset.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpKQ6UriXdehkNBLT634uDaFkFYJaOGO1RkQEmdchPcDUwwiXnGqgjJrrsmXl1xDcAhvcDJ0WipsWag40RfyVMoH9_R_FieFlchSzYQBeb6bwbVycimQUUuqXL0W5BK4qQIQD8d89nbtD/s1600/DSCN2271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwpKQ6UriXdehkNBLT634uDaFkFYJaOGO1RkQEmdchPcDUwwiXnGqgjJrrsmXl1xDcAhvcDJ0WipsWag40RfyVMoH9_R_FieFlchSzYQBeb6bwbVycimQUUuqXL0W5BK4qQIQD8d89nbtD/s640/DSCN2271.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kap Egede </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifilgmT48GrzE2_5ZFNySCZfWOt9F966OxJcS0svQAYsYILE__3Wr7pulfXuuhHaVcEUMMtMh_PhZJ9RkbCUbMgIRN5RCEtbQiYOEayEGYVzfYVdl5zE6aNuEaTUX-CAJ-SGWdhN44bGdW/s1600/DSCN2280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifilgmT48GrzE2_5ZFNySCZfWOt9F966OxJcS0svQAYsYILE__3Wr7pulfXuuhHaVcEUMMtMh_PhZJ9RkbCUbMgIRN5RCEtbQiYOEayEGYVzfYVdl5zE6aNuEaTUX-CAJ-SGWdhN44bGdW/s640/DSCN2280.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The weather changed quickly rounding the cape.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW2dECGkw-hhHOMyYUwI6B_491dHhFbnONUW5m6nYcqZLKdGZb1isrCYZUHXUCMVmYUTotRJBsSkGBuCvcwO6wGvgDr-iuhOz_bR2XhwomUAnLWBg-tr6HbhPxQhKbf8eykckR3UcBem4k/s1600/DSCN2297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW2dECGkw-hhHOMyYUwI6B_491dHhFbnONUW5m6nYcqZLKdGZb1isrCYZUHXUCMVmYUTotRJBsSkGBuCvcwO6wGvgDr-iuhOz_bR2XhwomUAnLWBg-tr6HbhPxQhKbf8eykckR3UcBem4k/s640/DSCN2297.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small boat harbor in Nanortalik, to little for Nomad</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji85UPoHQ36DtDCF5RLl14ifKzNtmEM7ZsrwCpcxWdGIR1e_ikT-qIQ5GgMUBY9eHQaXdTQteik3p59qj5tvGnd9W4CbQm46PW7bynk_GBWHjh220KqjdDv553qcbDnHkGflDa5j6Pg0na/s1600/DSCN2296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji85UPoHQ36DtDCF5RLl14ifKzNtmEM7ZsrwCpcxWdGIR1e_ikT-qIQ5GgMUBY9eHQaXdTQteik3p59qj5tvGnd9W4CbQm46PW7bynk_GBWHjh220KqjdDv553qcbDnHkGflDa5j6Pg0na/s640/DSCN2296.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nanortalik church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After studying the weather for a
few days off the bottom of Greenland, the possibility of finding a
gap between the storms off Kap Farvel to reach the Azores did not
look good. This being the second week of October and not wanting to
risk being stuck here for the winter it was time for Plan B. There
was a depression passing just to the south, so I backtracked to Kap
Desolation and sailed across the Labrador Sea just above 60N to avoid
the west winds from the low. The wind stopped about halfway across
and it was time to motor the rest of the way before the next low
approached. Nomad passed the last iceberg of the trip at the edge of
the continental shelf near Nain and made her way into Makkovik
Labrador as the wind began blowing from the south with the approach
of the next storm system.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCHQzrLlpi3OTXZnbDmWbtutlgtOiYydTJxEzHzv04aP7BTWkR6-nudbOXbDssXWFzO3Hwn2llywRkSb_6gSffxsoH0NARKqyEraBTINCFOpFzCc2qS_r_5lqDCAkJaB8XABpqU-rvyS6L/s1600/DSCN2309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCHQzrLlpi3OTXZnbDmWbtutlgtOiYydTJxEzHzv04aP7BTWkR6-nudbOXbDssXWFzO3Hwn2llywRkSb_6gSffxsoH0NARKqyEraBTINCFOpFzCc2qS_r_5lqDCAkJaB8XABpqU-rvyS6L/s640/DSCN2309.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Makkovik Labrador</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaGi2K3tQu_xNVMGf1nVf9zarfLLlCF_UAztqEPt3mqdsSfCNaG068YvxBTnNNFXbL1qc9C0gRj-Yy6sDkvK4Xmv67xGs0M5CyItwr7j0RoXQBI8qa9OA_4HvFkfzJnD0j9t2NhgaNed66/s1600/DSCN2312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaGi2K3tQu_xNVMGf1nVf9zarfLLlCF_UAztqEPt3mqdsSfCNaG068YvxBTnNNFXbL1qc9C0gRj-Yy6sDkvK4Xmv67xGs0M5CyItwr7j0RoXQBI8qa9OA_4HvFkfzJnD0j9t2NhgaNed66/s640/DSCN2312.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Makkovik boardwalk. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was impressed with the scent of
evergreens and the sight of the autumn foliage as I had not seen a
tree since leaving Newfoundland in June! There was a fuel shortage
in Makkovik due to the fuel ship for the year being delayed, but I
was able to get 175 liters to continue. After crossing the straits
of Belle Isle in heavy snow squalls the wind died out so it was
motorboat time again. The updated VHF weather report now had storm
force winds from a rapidly intensifying low to the south within
twenty four hours. Twillingate Newfoundland appeared to appeared to
have the best shelter that I could reach. Nomad arrived just after
nightfall laying alongside the wharf as the wind began to build.
Having arrived in Twillingate with about twenty liters of fuel left
in the boat I was eager to refuel, but the only gas station with
diesel fuel was sold out. By the time the fuel truck arrived Monday
morning and I refilled the tanks,making a second trip to fill all the
jugs it was late in the day. Taking the harbormaster's advice I
postponed departure until the next morning because there appeared to
be breaking waves across the harbor entrance leftover from the storm.
That was great advice. There were still big curling breakers in the
shoals on both sides of the channel as I turned east between the
islands towards Conception Bay. All day there was still a very
large swell leftover from the storm with little wind making for a
lively ride until it settled down overnight. With no wind, Nomad
motored the last two hundred miles back to the dock in Long Pond that
she left from at the end of June.<br />
<br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
This was a rare
voyage returning to my starting point so I was able to calculate some
interesting numbers for this voyage. Long Pond NL to Long Pond NL,
119 days and 4043 nm. Highest latitude reached: 70N. I had expected
light winds in the Arctic, but there was virtually no winds outside
the fjords for long periods of time. I logged an incredible 614 hours
on the main engine and 40 hours on the generator. Total fuel for the
voyage including what the heater consumed: 2215 liters. Six oil
changes on the main engine. Diesel fuel is subsidized, the cost
everywhere in Greenland is the same. In the summer of 2017 it was
0.87USD per liter, varying only a few cents with the exchange rate
fluctuations.
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Careful preparation
paid off and there were no serious problems during this arctic
voyage. There are however a few things to change on deck and some
more equipment that would make life much easier before returning to
the arctic. Top of the list is a pilothouse or at least some shelter
for steering and watchstanding . Reels for the 122 meter long shore
lines would greatly aid deploying and retrieving them. A bus heater
plumbed into the main engine would enable the Refleks heater to be
shut down when motoring saving quite a bit of fuel. A long serrated
stainless knife on a long pole for cutting the large masses of kelp
or grass that frequently come up with the anchor. A navtex receiver
and an Iridium device to receive weather reports and ice charts
would be extremely useful. I was unable to receive weather fax
charts on the shortwave receiver at all during this voyage. Aasiaat
radio gives a weather report on the VHF but it is very rudimentary
and I had a very difficult time understanding their heavily accented
english. Upon arriving in Nuuk I purchased a sim card from Telepost
and another hotspot since none of the devices onboard were compatible
with their cellular service. This was expensive,but it worked well.
The only downside of using this was the need to go by a town with a
phone signal every few days to get a current weather report. There
are no free wifi spots in Greenland. A forward looking sonar would be
a big help navigating the many unsurveyed areas on the charts with no
soundings.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
Nomad's expedition
to Greenland was an incredible adventure with numerous unforgettable
experiences. I t was also successful as training trip for
future arctic expeditions and an eventual attempt at the Northwest
Passage.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6T3v1S4xmKT4TEbtu0u7OTYRxERVJXK5BLoYyq-AEeSlddps7ObxSvcvG-me0cvLcsQ6OR72XLl9i4kSW3ShNBwBSgAZQUaGAC-pJDnVNASs3RbVhTd5NmDl-XDMes6Sv6rXzrsMEl4ap/s1600/DSCN2320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6T3v1S4xmKT4TEbtu0u7OTYRxERVJXK5BLoYyq-AEeSlddps7ObxSvcvG-me0cvLcsQ6OR72XLl9i4kSW3ShNBwBSgAZQUaGAC-pJDnVNASs3RbVhTd5NmDl-XDMes6Sv6rXzrsMEl4ap/s640/DSCN2320.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad in Long Pond once again.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-48243417076575066372017-11-18T15:26:00.000-08:002017-11-18T15:26:26.559-08:00Nomad's Summer in Greenland, Part 2: Disko Bay<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LR2UJ6SH8aMYQaV6f8WIEtEU6YWWOgOf4eK6GvcFB8hYfyYWU9VoKau7Yxyu2Dx6PTFuS5K9d0c1ATQkXZnrA71BZ2za4ds0noF9_Bjw08TSgiE3XWwDeMg8xSRqQBVWxgo4V3tkmK4F/s1600/DSCN1268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LR2UJ6SH8aMYQaV6f8WIEtEU6YWWOgOf4eK6GvcFB8hYfyYWU9VoKau7Yxyu2Dx6PTFuS5K9d0c1ATQkXZnrA71BZ2za4ds0noF9_Bjw08TSgiE3XWwDeMg8xSRqQBVWxgo4V3tkmK4F/s640/DSCN1268.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rafted up in Aasiaat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Nomad was rafted up to the French <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>expedition yacht in Aasiaat for two days. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well rested and with a full load of fuel onboard<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nomad sailed east heading toward the source
of all the ice floating around Disko Bay. Leaving on a clear sunny day allowed
me to see up the narrow rocky channel<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>with its small icebergs that I had so carefully navigated <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in the fog two nights before. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BVg74nzpumkkSv68CeVNH4LSa9iTKbjDE1MJfnHCE23r_ObJbQ7vG4PZrfiwymLvE_o-3NqhUSt-p3j02J2ZpZCEMc9jjCKhbTTeVcvrFBouC65Rf6xSuw0Z8hyphenhyphenbgLleVqod_MSki7Ba/s1600/DSCN1321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BVg74nzpumkkSv68CeVNH4LSa9iTKbjDE1MJfnHCE23r_ObJbQ7vG4PZrfiwymLvE_o-3NqhUSt-p3j02J2ZpZCEMc9jjCKhbTTeVcvrFBouC65Rf6xSuw0Z8hyphenhyphenbgLleVqod_MSki7Ba/s640/DSCN1321.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Navigation is much easier without the fog.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Icebergs became more numerous as <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I approached
the east side of the bay. This was my first experience navigating close by the
icebergs on a sunny day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are a
brilliant white that stands out against the blue sky quite unlike their<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>usual near invisibility in foggy overcast
conditions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-g1NmtZfMTSniafVcIL28rrVDeuCyOrfyYZVChgNbEP77GHCvMWOwG2VLIw8vICCooF3tnEaeOHGZ_vYtaLVX1YBoGd9bdgShELnYsqVMLHFscURBs90-S7HY1eeIB9lmpSmRtGB7_dyD/s1600/DSCN1278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-g1NmtZfMTSniafVcIL28rrVDeuCyOrfyYZVChgNbEP77GHCvMWOwG2VLIw8vICCooF3tnEaeOHGZ_vYtaLVX1YBoGd9bdgShELnYsqVMLHFscURBs90-S7HY1eeIB9lmpSmRtGB7_dyD/s640/DSCN1278.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad's first encounter with visible ice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span>Approaching Quasigiannguit
late in the day it was easy to work around a number of bergs in the harbor
entrance and head for the far end of the bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Anchoring <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in water as shallow as
possible limits the size of iceberg <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that
can run into your boat while anchored. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOkOOAvboB86uC1_eLEYepN3N-GIIwOmpA5PTnXa6lwxKRyurzGQPGYyAmugvHN8duTCLs3VbdYJ0JonJSbx7hs0uJXuxKkadFC066nm-FB-x5PXnSamesUZGZVRpahyUky-YqwoWRsRc/s1600/DSCN1333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOkOOAvboB86uC1_eLEYepN3N-GIIwOmpA5PTnXa6lwxKRyurzGQPGYyAmugvHN8duTCLs3VbdYJ0JonJSbx7hs0uJXuxKkadFC066nm-FB-x5PXnSamesUZGZVRpahyUky-YqwoWRsRc/s640/DSCN1333.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchorage at Quasigiannguit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXoUw-p9OobjRFVrJh7rD4EzV1zuZqO62U9P3u-fNa9FQrelKEOMe2HcgJHRnOMPA9821oyYNTrGRst1U9s0CZ795og38ED4GrJm10ffUUNXvBVE2hXERgDeO2IpQfmJ5-E-ARFGXcS_pu/s1600/DSCN1335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXoUw-p9OobjRFVrJh7rD4EzV1zuZqO62U9P3u-fNa9FQrelKEOMe2HcgJHRnOMPA9821oyYNTrGRst1U9s0CZ795og38ED4GrJm10ffUUNXvBVE2hXERgDeO2IpQfmJ5-E-ARFGXcS_pu/s640/DSCN1335.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This berg is too big to get inside the harbor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaving the harbor I went between the
coast and the first<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>island as I had seen
local boats using that route. There were no soundings on the chart here, so it
was a slow ride through monitoring the depth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was deep except for crossing a
rocky patch at the north end with only twenty feet at high tide. Once clear of
the islands north of Quasigiannuit the Jakobshavn glacier was clearly visible on the
horizon along with many icebergs scattered over<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Disko Bay. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ifXc7z0z1_qdaz2H1Eu5Ppc3JGKwi52LOoznekBOeMe4ZR7HK_GcKansPJLAQP4w6q584fjMxWFupWEsV37oan-zo7cubjEUmDNXgZmeuXuKeDpWLSIkNtQnh66yXZAeJjq-ekb6QYDx/s1600/DSCN1381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ifXc7z0z1_qdaz2H1Eu5Ppc3JGKwi52LOoznekBOeMe4ZR7HK_GcKansPJLAQP4w6q584fjMxWFupWEsV37oan-zo7cubjEUmDNXgZmeuXuKeDpWLSIkNtQnh66yXZAeJjq-ekb6QYDx/s640/DSCN1381.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Icebergs come in an endless variety of shapes and sizes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKIvuNA1atzEECxB9B1V-reJswlf66clrEvf2Yap3Wktu6oSvtaBzT0u_aK6qM8vO1pkvT30mmVrgjllcaE7O3LYeHr_2Vt26HfhKMHlz6aqUrClKIzRo4fZt_DSGO82UpFm6Rzr8ub8j/s1600/DSCN1566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="1600" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKIvuNA1atzEECxB9B1V-reJswlf66clrEvf2Yap3Wktu6oSvtaBzT0u_aK6qM8vO1pkvT30mmVrgjllcaE7O3LYeHr_2Vt26HfhKMHlz6aqUrClKIzRo4fZt_DSGO82UpFm6Rzr8ub8j/s640/DSCN1566.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The more distant icebergs have mirror images floating above them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Steering around an ever
increasing number<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>bergs it looked like a
solid wall of ice in the distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sailing
closer revealed that there was space to get between the icebergs where many
were grounded near shore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were two
rocks noted on the chart that were hidden in the ice field, but no soundings in
this area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Carefully working through the
ice I found that the Nordre Huse anchorage<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was clear of ice. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lIghJ8LWID1jGqMWvOCSSHXuJDvjaKkz-eK5HNLNO0ZhLCNalArpAN5r0z6GVtpBHD_TtwH62U2bys0AlowGeDwSpTGFWRH5aGZRW2GANMmXIeW3psc5hbJ2McsKMwe5-QcuRoaqF7Np/s1600/DSCN1424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lIghJ8LWID1jGqMWvOCSSHXuJDvjaKkz-eK5HNLNO0ZhLCNalArpAN5r0z6GVtpBHD_TtwH62U2bys0AlowGeDwSpTGFWRH5aGZRW2GANMmXIeW3psc5hbJ2McsKMwe5-QcuRoaqF7Np/s640/DSCN1424.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored between rocks and ice at Nordre Huse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is an ok anchorage as long as the wind <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>or current does not set the ice into the shore.
There is a small slot canyon in the rocks allowing easy shore access. Climbing
to the top brings a stunning panoramic view over the four mile wide river of
ice spilling into Disko Bay with the ice cap visible in the distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRPTtD5TTSR-9w9zeOYW1lTbEH5kwPho4vezEHlLB9xpwPFYhgO0_IETZXHL6j9frPuKtECu-k9187cENxNLGmubbM8gNo9Xsy2VE2eFYMJuvpHVC79hLABMvhEp6G5DHywigbn3RkcNtw/s1600/DSCN1428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRPTtD5TTSR-9w9zeOYW1lTbEH5kwPho4vezEHlLB9xpwPFYhgO0_IETZXHL6j9frPuKtECu-k9187cENxNLGmubbM8gNo9Xsy2VE2eFYMJuvpHVC79hLABMvhEp6G5DHywigbn3RkcNtw/s640/DSCN1428.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing Jakobshavn glacier. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jakobshavn_Glacier" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jakobshavn_Glacier</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A strong breeze began blowing down the fjord
late in the day so I felt it was safe to spend the night behind the
icefield.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a surreal experience
with ice colored by the twilight of the arctic night and the sounds of the
glacier moving audible through the hull. Outside an occasional sound like
thunder could be heard over the wind as pieces of glacier broke off.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquXC_1zJTmdHA7jDEZ4K-lD5AGJfgI5yEF-v7fjRZrGi397C8KRXyAcQuSVCR9p_6ZwfaA8IbELUAGyDUz5tmr3OaFRVDQpXD-xuzL0IReZWJY8lhtY-rM7H_nFl2n2K3s2BUSaQBPUaO/s1600/DSCN1455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiquXC_1zJTmdHA7jDEZ4K-lD5AGJfgI5yEF-v7fjRZrGi397C8KRXyAcQuSVCR9p_6ZwfaA8IbELUAGyDUz5tmr3OaFRVDQpXD-xuzL0IReZWJY8lhtY-rM7H_nFl2n2K3s2BUSaQBPUaO/s640/DSCN1455.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nordre Huse at night.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The fjord wind blew all night and opened up
the ice making departure much easier in the morning .<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was only a few miles around the glacier
face to Illulissat, so I spent a fascinating morning motoring between the
gigantic icebergs at the front of the glacier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZIva11kLd4K0Z3rg7QKgh5vD-snlyJfYsSzQ0JRKwlFxQmQ1dA1hzGOSbUcFLgUCLe8i4EPP-_GtRbgEhEpTlr_zBUVxdHoz6WAI8LWXFipcOA21IXTb9_iq-icPOWP6DUqKcGeYwTNR/s1600/DSCN1462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZIva11kLd4K0Z3rg7QKgh5vD-snlyJfYsSzQ0JRKwlFxQmQ1dA1hzGOSbUcFLgUCLe8i4EPP-_GtRbgEhEpTlr_zBUVxdHoz6WAI8LWXFipcOA21IXTb9_iq-icPOWP6DUqKcGeYwTNR/s640/DSCN1462.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good mix of ice and rocks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqF_ZSSw2amj9H_JVQVB48awSvJtFZ3837nY0LLqCXeBQ-BmhRV2a1F3MKBaUYk6rvVMvMiHrQeQjN4gBT5P54xdlpFH8KVjqwwoRDbIsiNmKTgMN9DLipLAMQKiRWZUF9tJJegfCUQjRI/s1600/DSCN1468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="1600" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqF_ZSSw2amj9H_JVQVB48awSvJtFZ3837nY0LLqCXeBQ-BmhRV2a1F3MKBaUYk6rvVMvMiHrQeQjN4gBT5P54xdlpFH8KVjqwwoRDbIsiNmKTgMN9DLipLAMQKiRWZUF9tJJegfCUQjRI/s640/DSCN1468.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local boat crossing the glacier face.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtri8x7glDkB9LuBIEWiuzc75sJ0xNWc3hdjNqZ8smoVos2pSB9oGK3oRdEogqZnDq5kT6luytPn1sM2ILOUxmwEbqpJzI08FnDJhtKE4Cyqib7h1WurY-IIlt3uCufHO9l4OSWvCz6Awf/s1600/DSCN1475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="863" data-original-width="1600" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtri8x7glDkB9LuBIEWiuzc75sJ0xNWc3hdjNqZ8smoVos2pSB9oGK3oRdEogqZnDq5kT6luytPn1sM2ILOUxmwEbqpJzI08FnDJhtKE4Cyqib7h1WurY-IIlt3uCufHO9l4OSWvCz6Awf/s640/DSCN1475.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
Huge icebergs aground in 500' of water</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj49N26sJfHFRay_douI646TPsht89doRrbovl2uussj3uzi5rvYqcXiCBJDY0tGW3EkWon02nTHrJk8JPBNryGxAOMSdFqMQDzdykzGKmwX8vRYnhyphenhyphentTDXfY_ubd_QfnIxj85ojhwwzuB/s1600/DSCN1483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="917" data-original-width="1600" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj49N26sJfHFRay_douI646TPsht89doRrbovl2uussj3uzi5rvYqcXiCBJDY0tGW3EkWon02nTHrJk8JPBNryGxAOMSdFqMQDzdykzGKmwX8vRYnhyphenhyphentTDXfY_ubd_QfnIxj85ojhwwzuB/s640/DSCN1483.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Illulissat comes into view beyond the glacier.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Entering the tiny inner harbor at Illulissat I found it to be extremely
crowded with no convenient place to tie up Nomad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With some difficulty I got Nomad turned
around<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and out of the harbor. With three
cruise ships in town, that was enough encouragement for me to head for<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the tiny village of Oquaatsut with its
sheltered bay for the night. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nomad
easily got by a few grounded bergs in the north entrance and spent the day
weaving between numerous icebergs along the coast of Arve Prinsens <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ejland bound for an anchorage in
Smallesund<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>noted in the guidebook.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR549g-9pJpURN9-K5LUSyhEZdWRJ6WCsB0VqDwE3bAF8kYbB9sFvXg3xRnILtq-ckF_Bu7rYYwWiQsIDv7rH_LQJuacmpphYhoe0Fuy76QxsLlXpIJUgb8c4FCNEyTw6bygyTo0AO_Er8/s1600/DSCN1532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR549g-9pJpURN9-K5LUSyhEZdWRJ6WCsB0VqDwE3bAF8kYbB9sFvXg3xRnILtq-ckF_Bu7rYYwWiQsIDv7rH_LQJuacmpphYhoe0Fuy76QxsLlXpIJUgb8c4FCNEyTw6bygyTo0AO_Er8/s640/DSCN1532.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bergs at Arve Prinsens Ejland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes the best planning doesn’t help in
the remote areas of the Arctic. After carefully working my way into an
unsurveyed area I was greeted by the sight of a small berg grounded in the cove
and the shallow areas full of bergy bits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was obvious where the local fishermen tied to the rock wall and the
water was forty feet deep alongside, but I was not comfortable with the amount
of ice coming in with the wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
retreated to a cove<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>on the big island
that I had seen on the way in<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that had a
sandy patch showing at low tide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
was just enough space to anchor carefully without having to put out shore
lines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTCI-8p1noG1IUKwxtYQylYPpXH90-LJOpZ1HjlWETvGWGA_P0LKkTRGiWj4n-VZJ7QCR9adj0t-OQ1mzVpyXKPUIfT4VNiEKQz0HNjGvpZhIRY8t-5-M4_ipgts2lfDFbR-hKVHtTsNn/s1600/DSCN1551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="755" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTCI-8p1noG1IUKwxtYQylYPpXH90-LJOpZ1HjlWETvGWGA_P0LKkTRGiWj4n-VZJ7QCR9adj0t-OQ1mzVpyXKPUIfT4VNiEKQz0HNjGvpZhIRY8t-5-M4_ipgts2lfDFbR-hKVHtTsNn/s640/DSCN1551.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of space to get through.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The north entrance to
Smallesund<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>appeared closed by ice, but
getting closer I could see there was space enough to get through close by the
rock wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Torssukkatak was full of ice,
but navigable. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here at 70N<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>looking down the ice choked Vaigat channel north
of Disko island I reluctantly decided it was time to head south.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are few truly safe harbors on the
north shore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Admiralty Pilot frequently
warns of large waves from overturning icebergs entering many of these
harbors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Exploring <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Upernavik and Nordre Sunds will have to wait
until the next trip.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivBynCD5_WTsswvhY_KLiQ8UXL89f1nxYSxbVBq5Ast2hiZYcQI4mTB8uS1YRobQt_Aag4-lI5zxurcx_rC3c2jKpeSvb4kP5uWGTbFaLmemryIDtBwxy7fQtE6zb74TjFDWBDwuzdhBH4/s1600/DSCN1552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="784" data-original-width="1600" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivBynCD5_WTsswvhY_KLiQ8UXL89f1nxYSxbVBq5Ast2hiZYcQI4mTB8uS1YRobQt_Aag4-lI5zxurcx_rC3c2jKpeSvb4kP5uWGTbFaLmemryIDtBwxy7fQtE6zb74TjFDWBDwuzdhBH4/s640/DSCN1552.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Torsukkatak </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLDP0qQJITXelF-fvMXJ6Cp4k6CjLRPrRFzGS1i_dOQ-d27tkiJ7ZCrVM2EX5GodP2Fanuwtf3uY7UrbwqRwhSr5i9W-SY1e1HQIBCccPESUR0qw2XYjqMlHzx2BgLeALkCUPbjNQFNH9/s1600/DSCN1561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1250" data-original-width="1600" height="497" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLDP0qQJITXelF-fvMXJ6Cp4k6CjLRPrRFzGS1i_dOQ-d27tkiJ7ZCrVM2EX5GodP2Fanuwtf3uY7UrbwqRwhSr5i9W-SY1e1HQIBCccPESUR0qw2XYjqMlHzx2BgLeALkCUPbjNQFNH9/s640/DSCN1561.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An icy obstacle course.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1n0nmSgzt19oqxlnvh6mhOM5Jk_lApLEHhNuJ2Dm4JsQD_YEn3TeJ0h2fktl7cg5f0N0zO7U9lHcZvzyDYpgJox9E39LqJmwiyUc_vdxIOaN4gv5b_PSsrXQ39qp-f36STwAT1SBLZhHf/s1600/DSCN1562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1n0nmSgzt19oqxlnvh6mhOM5Jk_lApLEHhNuJ2Dm4JsQD_YEn3TeJ0h2fktl7cg5f0N0zO7U9lHcZvzyDYpgJox9E39LqJmwiyUc_vdxIOaN4gv5b_PSsrXQ39qp-f36STwAT1SBLZhHf/s640/DSCN1562.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Along the Torsukkatak channel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBj-THQNGKiy_3Wj4-mMe4sJn8i0JaTePY_2Of14wB1okW7cjP8bB4qhuQ2P4dAvi-CssIVEyC2ZQ8uLmFGcyd7cTcrRvJo239k4uSWwAy6Stxkg9OGrecLmQJVxjkk32tZ54IPol1khE/s1600/DSCN1564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBj-THQNGKiy_3Wj4-mMe4sJn8i0JaTePY_2Of14wB1okW7cjP8bB4qhuQ2P4dAvi-CssIVEyC2ZQ8uLmFGcyd7cTcrRvJo239k4uSWwAy6Stxkg9OGrecLmQJVxjkk32tZ54IPol1khE/s640/DSCN1564.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down the Vaigat channel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is deep
water around the islands on the west coast of Arve Prinsens Ejland<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and it was no problem navigating the
uncharted channels between them<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to the
abandoned settlement at Ritenbank.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
is a large shallow shelf off the settlement allowing good anchorage with some
current.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJfHg5bzZmR05z-HYGx-Yadq8nqMfKCkwTULRF_GA9WiD8AEaKBSc1y6f7lCzWRIfMuJ3MCrUtn53im3vGVPsWDfUtxnahVPDZMesWwKT_r8_r_lOeL7UKfjw5PgZPzsp7tbddoGb2oOUg/s1600/DSCN1608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="1600" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJfHg5bzZmR05z-HYGx-Yadq8nqMfKCkwTULRF_GA9WiD8AEaKBSc1y6f7lCzWRIfMuJ3MCrUtn53im3vGVPsWDfUtxnahVPDZMesWwKT_r8_r_lOeL7UKfjw5PgZPzsp7tbddoGb2oOUg/s640/DSCN1608.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad at Ritenbank</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While preparing to launch the dinghy I began hearing a very loud snorting echoing off the surrounding mountains. Being quite puzzled as to what could be make such an impressive sound, I got out the binoculars and began to search the area. Thinking it could be a polar bear I carefully scanned the surrounding area finding nothing. This was beginning to get a little spooky as the snorting continued to echo off the mountain. I eventually located a large whale cruising near the opposite shore coming up to breathe with only the tip of it's head clearing the surface with each breath. It was safe to go ashore exploring, no bears around!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrDaM7kWbsk540kAzGXU9V6_qLHdey71sQ5MIIyDBfY33FxwXQA_eUioQgHHTfRNgoSz_GBUeCxt51tbZITp6ri-NB5A13y9zS0XD0esNlLHcvhlu4DAHVPPQ_AgjicwcBpc4IlgPdiJz/s1600/DSCN1596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrDaM7kWbsk540kAzGXU9V6_qLHdey71sQ5MIIyDBfY33FxwXQA_eUioQgHHTfRNgoSz_GBUeCxt51tbZITp6ri-NB5A13y9zS0XD0esNlLHcvhlu4DAHVPPQ_AgjicwcBpc4IlgPdiJz/s640/DSCN1596.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whalebone artwork.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA8F6IYot7jSAS7EGxljmiAmwXRgO_XCnhw5nuB45UsLGgQjOdMnWyWJqQocAeAu_BCTDL1S6oZwnwVuwTbbKn_9CekuYWqZnUqmsmT6UN1A73IeY3JOrmbyaEGkbEu8J6JkIqhJMH4lWH/s1600/DSCN1598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA8F6IYot7jSAS7EGxljmiAmwXRgO_XCnhw5nuB45UsLGgQjOdMnWyWJqQocAeAu_BCTDL1S6oZwnwVuwTbbKn_9CekuYWqZnUqmsmT6UN1A73IeY3JOrmbyaEGkbEu8J6JkIqhJMH4lWH/s640/DSCN1598.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The heater room.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcUbrs2004mBYkk-awvlSgYcxNG9Nte1cNzJIKHT5SXisyqGLdHx8fzFY66e-YvXg-a5tsC5uE0UqnDlEcAfwqJCKFQZpCsJOKq4tAcg32C4L32SeX-5XBXvT3M10SYHcGiurklsXqzhXd/s1600/DSCN1584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcUbrs2004mBYkk-awvlSgYcxNG9Nte1cNzJIKHT5SXisyqGLdHx8fzFY66e-YvXg-a5tsC5uE0UqnDlEcAfwqJCKFQZpCsJOKq4tAcg32C4L32SeX-5XBXvT3M10SYHcGiurklsXqzhXd/s640/DSCN1584.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the church.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QMQOV2gAXHEhW1XLPEvAQkiQ73Yh-KHucWkiP5n8kJfSajI-LQfmT4QVmf5q_pCtR9Elk3_jlH_RPE1eWqk0Ubnx9dVZCOGcqiRRLirP8rp35np4dOJHegRF812ntDbtoJOS_sKaGXSe/s1600/DSCN1592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QMQOV2gAXHEhW1XLPEvAQkiQ73Yh-KHucWkiP5n8kJfSajI-LQfmT4QVmf5q_pCtR9Elk3_jlH_RPE1eWqk0Ubnx9dVZCOGcqiRRLirP8rp35np4dOJHegRF812ntDbtoJOS_sKaGXSe/s640/DSCN1592.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summer flowers on Ritenbank</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLNOIpvRJXQaOxOY7xEHwtMQpinulWWT4Byi3_NYOIJA_yq_FbM5yxpeKT2D0fpbXQLfRPuzhx02gB2sBNpW-3HFFEdanEPe0vUI8YhAx5F_GMjihJ2qNYRTukCORmTm8K2l6iZ6nRiAB3/s1600/DSCN1595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLNOIpvRJXQaOxOY7xEHwtMQpinulWWT4Byi3_NYOIJA_yq_FbM5yxpeKT2D0fpbXQLfRPuzhx02gB2sBNpW-3HFFEdanEPe0vUI8YhAx5F_GMjihJ2qNYRTukCORmTm8K2l6iZ6nRiAB3/s640/DSCN1595.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artwork left behind</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXpIgcjuYIU571lXuyk7LtrWwspkRpAxA-DDWxDMMW4a3D9gQUNcHwV0kLJ_EAuVFEH3P6oNLsfz2qS0-8NIZvXf7mUl2Usa3QB0hhJbI_Vf4sIlWItFLfi2NgcFT4Wzfgae3XOwDJOd_/s1600/DSCN1603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXpIgcjuYIU571lXuyk7LtrWwspkRpAxA-DDWxDMMW4a3D9gQUNcHwV0kLJ_EAuVFEH3P6oNLsfz2qS0-8NIZvXf7mUl2Usa3QB0hhJbI_Vf4sIlWItFLfi2NgcFT4Wzfgae3XOwDJOd_/s640/DSCN1603.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Disko island seen from Ritenbank</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Early in the morning I was
awoken by a resounding thump that shook the boat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sitting up all that could be seen out the
portholes was a wall of ice. Nomad and an iceberg had collided in the tidal
current.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The iceberg had run aground so
I pushed Nomad clear of it and the current kept us apart.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpy9KkeT9syTJINPY8zjEcQuiXR549-T5trc1HgOAN-jd2NcMhyphenhyphenN9EG2yhrXGkB-blk9UrC0EIGLBf5NDXOQK9Zb7I5mUgusyjqT6wbJDOmkzVeeY71nlvDZZL2sZ0dRitAHQDz41RkCY5/s1600/DSCN1613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpy9KkeT9syTJINPY8zjEcQuiXR549-T5trc1HgOAN-jd2NcMhyphenhyphenN9EG2yhrXGkB-blk9UrC0EIGLBf5NDXOQK9Zb7I5mUgusyjqT6wbJDOmkzVeeY71nlvDZZL2sZ0dRitAHQDz41RkCY5/s640/DSCN1613.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning visitor knocking on the boat.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pulling up the anchor chain eventually brought
Nomad against the iceberg again. Fortunately the iceberg had just missed
parking on top of my anchor so I was able to get underway without having to
wait for another tide to move it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I t
was another beautiful sunny arctic day as I motored across the bay bound for
Qeqertarsuaq<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>on the south shore of Disko
Island intent on doing some hiking there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs4FY7Z9j22c7ZgDzTdU8oxLwyRci2sOvN_8d-5eI0UY7HmertyfhInk_NqKPBzk4NLyd9Y4sTiTBdP68DzpeMyQd3LdH27DzYT-SCoKZE4MrV2PVP1piufcDGErjpZm1ZqaD-3lqXU7Xh/s1600/DSCN1626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs4FY7Z9j22c7ZgDzTdU8oxLwyRci2sOvN_8d-5eI0UY7HmertyfhInk_NqKPBzk4NLyd9Y4sTiTBdP68DzpeMyQd3LdH27DzYT-SCoKZE4MrV2PVP1piufcDGErjpZm1ZqaD-3lqXU7Xh/s640/DSCN1626.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Disko Bay. No napping underway with all this ice floating around.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOjJbASYfwQ3aoCBa8j3dZPA4TQb20kjwqNhiM5yzA_ZXwfd9jCSHbd1gNrsLkgSqNCBi3GOshOs4jwu0V1QZiia6w5O3scmQ_h6lx-E9-M3WHbUuppjyD70BOIxhPSALZku1ATTT25QT/s1600/DSCN1651.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOjJbASYfwQ3aoCBa8j3dZPA4TQb20kjwqNhiM5yzA_ZXwfd9jCSHbd1gNrsLkgSqNCBi3GOshOs4jwu0V1QZiia6w5O3scmQ_h6lx-E9-M3WHbUuppjyD70BOIxhPSALZku1ATTT25QT/s640/DSCN1651.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharp ridgeline on Disko Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3V0-PiWKql5egROlDkc9ZD6fzTFtAkZKAG2AYoLJUfgle7zHqyiR4ONCyKF9OgOdw2IA1fK0SNVaqvf4gulDWBLh5HJfmiNu8N5uE9noLbVwqWI65EsWvONihMzUI7PM1KwSBHJPdYNC/s1600/DSCN1656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="715" data-original-width="1600" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3V0-PiWKql5egROlDkc9ZD6fzTFtAkZKAG2AYoLJUfgle7zHqyiR4ONCyKF9OgOdw2IA1fK0SNVaqvf4gulDWBLh5HJfmiNu8N5uE9noLbVwqWI65EsWvONihMzUI7PM1KwSBHJPdYNC/s640/DSCN1656.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South shore of Disko Island with the ice cap visible in the background.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was dodging large icebergs and enjoying the otherworldly scenery of Disko
Island when smoke started coming out of the open hatch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Expecting a fire, I was relieved to find that
the gearbox had overheated and the only thing burning was it’s seals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hoisting full sail, I was able to coax Nomad
another mile away from shore in the faintest breath of wind while the gear
cooled enough for me to touch it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
still full of oil, but it was very burnt and I changed it. Putting it in gear
once again, the shaft would start turning slowly but would not speed up even
with full throttle applied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I worked
every breeze that came by throughout the night keeping Nomad away from the
icebergs and attempting to head across the bay towards Aasiaat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Making less than 4 miles overnight I was
considering all manner of possibilities. Troubleshooting the gear I found that
it would provide full power in reverse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Problem solved! I would be able to back all the way to Aasiaat, twenty
four miles distant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hurriedly dropped
all the sails eager to get moving after a long unproductive night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But in my sleep deprived state, I forgot to
check both sides of the boat for lines in the water after dropping the sails
and promptly backed over the port main sheetlet, stalling the engine. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After spending some time unsuccessfully trying
to clear the prop from on deck I realized there was only one solution. I
retrieved my diving gear stored in various places around the boat and set up my
scuba tank on deck . I was unable to free the line from the propshaft with my
dexterity impaired by my wetsuit gloves and ice cold water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I returned with a knife and cut it
clear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>wriggling out of my wetsuit I took a moment
to warm up before throwing the dive gear down below and starting the engine. I
began the tedious task of backing across the bay<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>steering from one iceberg to the next as my
course was too erratic to follow the compass. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I closed the coast near Aasiaat, a large
cruise ship went by with a number of people standing on deck watching me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can only wonder at what they thought
watching a schooner zigzagging backwards between the icebergs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having failed at several attempts to back
between the rocks guarding the inner passage to Aasiaat,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt a faint breeze near shore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hoisted the jib and foresail, the main
being out of service with it’s sheetlet cut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was enough combined with the propeller turning slowly ahead to get
the boat moving. Nomad made it between the rocks without incident and slowly
made way into Assiaat<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>reaching speeds up
to two knots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The next morning was calm
and I was able to tie to the barge at the shipyard where I would not be asked
to move the boat while I had the gear off the motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dismantling the gear I quickly found the
problem and by pure chance happened to have the spare parts onboard to repair
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv9vFNZxmJQcUbjOvDKZ-X4AzLKruysnd68epSaTxqEfFtSyppvaze4Dg9CqXsmw8R8OVKU8KZ1C29TkRd8IrVgbq_NibxV4PRcZ8GlyA_rPmfV5sl80s4MKmOJzGePdu7JJVp99mYpYOy/s1600/DSCN1673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv9vFNZxmJQcUbjOvDKZ-X4AzLKruysnd68epSaTxqEfFtSyppvaze4Dg9CqXsmw8R8OVKU8KZ1C29TkRd8IrVgbq_NibxV4PRcZ8GlyA_rPmfV5sl80s4MKmOJzGePdu7JJVp99mYpYOy/s640/DSCN1673.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The offending part and it's replacement. This would have been very difficult to repair underway.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Forty eight hours later, Nomad was
mobile again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I then shifted to the tiny
wharf on Transitoen island in the middle of the harbor where I had an abandoned
fish plant to explore while waiting for a storm to pass.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXiXq1hp9J-Zvd4MPw93NKB1MwmSj7S1p2Fc-F1Yk3mAXCeldIq2fJFjrw1mIQxoeWiRCCBMQkcI5hCGoQaaiIU467jLPC7KMYa3F_XQ_OCu2JGIZowgjKa_gx0w2_YKuchbbvcBdK6P5i/s1600/DSCN1680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXiXq1hp9J-Zvd4MPw93NKB1MwmSj7S1p2Fc-F1Yk3mAXCeldIq2fJFjrw1mIQxoeWiRCCBMQkcI5hCGoQaaiIU467jLPC7KMYa3F_XQ_OCu2JGIZowgjKa_gx0w2_YKuchbbvcBdK6P5i/s640/DSCN1680.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tiny dock at Transitoen island. The crane hangs over the water close by the headstay on the far side of the wharf.</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-29027720676976230562017-11-15T21:39:00.000-08:002017-11-17T08:02:34.167-08:00Nomad's summer in Greenland, Part 1: Nuuk to Aasiaat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Nomad closed the coast of Greenland on 12 July following an uneventful thirteen day crossing of the Labrador Sea from Newfoundland. Under escort by a pod of pilot whales Nomad left the deep ocean behind and crossed onto the shallow banks off the coast. The wind began to diminish to a flat glassy calm and I sighted my first iceberg as visibility slowly decreased to zero in dense fog.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigkxaGiyS94CYPPAW-8OKpJ4N8645q9YdvLS9379QvjCRPJKPjBlluAI6O_FjEm8P5Tomu2CtPMvgGN8dnQlU9wfch09u83wLQv_wfA_nrG7DWPMVjLiWYdeYVxKaivS19a_cO7DjBCKX9/s1600/DSCN0938c.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="1600" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigkxaGiyS94CYPPAW-8OKpJ4N8645q9YdvLS9379QvjCRPJKPjBlluAI6O_FjEm8P5Tomu2CtPMvgGN8dnQlU9wfch09u83wLQv_wfA_nrG7DWPMVjLiWYdeYVxKaivS19a_cO7DjBCKX9/s400/DSCN0938c.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilot whales</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The lighthouse on Saattut slipped by unseen in the fog as I carefully passed between the rocks to enter the inside passage to Nuuk from the south. Time passed slowly as Nomad made her way north between rocks and mountains. Charts of dubious accuracy required continuous cross checking of the radar, depth sounder and charts both paper and electronic. Late in the afternoon the fog slowly lifted revealing a stunning landscape of snow covered mountains against a clear blue sky. Riding a fair tide, I made good time motoring up the channel and decided to stop overnight in Ameralik Fjord and get a good night's rest before entering Nuuk to clear in.<br />
There was no response on the radio from the harbor authorities as I entered the harbor in Nuuk. I rafted up to one of the few other sailboats in the harbor as that seemed to be the way docking was handled in their very crowded harbor. I sought out the harbormaster in his office at the Royal Arctic Lines office to report my arrival. Customs was notified, " they will stop by the boat if they are interested". They never did. Easiest entry to another country ever! Harbor charges are in four day blocks for about $12USD.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz1aJwKenS5p8pI32UGvHF9g2DzUElsFSWynHGtQ1dBjcg94IjF89uMbHb4ODC6kvTVjPcgTzr_96h2FcIf4byKSGU5fHQNWUvDNsq8RlAeNNhZr-kS4caPS0WrxSeuG3D_f5PSzWAYll/s1600/DSCN0960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTz1aJwKenS5p8pI32UGvHF9g2DzUElsFSWynHGtQ1dBjcg94IjF89uMbHb4ODC6kvTVjPcgTzr_96h2FcIf4byKSGU5fHQNWUvDNsq8RlAeNNhZr-kS4caPS0WrxSeuG3D_f5PSzWAYll/s400/DSCN0960.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An amazing vista became visible as the fog lifted.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlt1sGqrFGM2a1I50seUeDF_lSJdfPVmIQXpTDWmb9i6iECLsI66M3MuLIqghligOyxYlPw2airDa9ZJjkCP4_F_ublFVEN7zj1feuSymgG9jJNlev-K97SlCPJyUzTmyL_ii3NDvgA7D/s1600/DSCN0963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlt1sGqrFGM2a1I50seUeDF_lSJdfPVmIQXpTDWmb9i6iECLsI66M3MuLIqghligOyxYlPw2airDa9ZJjkCP4_F_ublFVEN7zj1feuSymgG9jJNlev-K97SlCPJyUzTmyL_ii3NDvgA7D/s400/DSCN0963.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steps leading down the cliff to the harbor in Nuuk</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The harbormaster gave me a short ride into town to show me where the supermarkets and Telepost store were located. The next day was spent working on the boat followed by an early evening request to move and make space for a large vessel. I relocated further into the harbor and rafted up with a boat from Germany who was on his way south from Disko Bay. They shared information on anchorages and docks going northbound and we decided to climb a couple mountains on the outskirts of Nuuk. There are vaguely marked routes up both of them. Ukusissat, the first one we climbed was the higher of the two. The scenery was magnificent and it was snowing on top. Both mountains provided panoramic vistas of Nuuk and the mountains further inland.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6AJF5rNO-VDM8HISdSRLJC8QqjTJYTo2MtLXVK1hoQMN8GFIPmNnJQWp8DRl48JNxHA0Vq7k-SR5Z9cBlwdKK2Un_RXP37itD6xgt-DueFVptn2NWax_1LZLg5W27hi9ut-HnBTO2wgH/s1600/DSCN1015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6AJF5rNO-VDM8HISdSRLJC8QqjTJYTo2MtLXVK1hoQMN8GFIPmNnJQWp8DRl48JNxHA0Vq7k-SR5Z9cBlwdKK2Un_RXP37itD6xgt-DueFVptn2NWax_1LZLg5W27hi9ut-HnBTO2wgH/s400/DSCN1015.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tramping in the mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Nomad was ready to sail and when the weather settled it was time to head north. Dense fog settled in as I departed the harbor and worked my way out to open waters. Arrival in Tovquassaq at 0330 was greatly eased by the 24 hour daylight. Following a good rest and a day of exploring, the next anchorage was another abandoned settlement, Ikerasak. As with many interesting anchorages in Greenland the chart of this area had no soundings on it. This requires extreme care, a good eye for guessing the underwater topography and a very slow speed approach. It was a bit eerie walking about the graveyard back in the hills with streamers of fog coming between the mountains.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQDRoFCPnpa6c3Gg5gqepYLibqrK35vS7n5FRTGOV_EQ10R8oI0hKhJqytKjVZvYLg85ijwb1BwM_KZi6PgP2cnlXtJqGMCJoOCr8thk1FDnOQ43rn56bqHpvE4p1eTTy9VP2Chm3z5iX/s1600/DSCN1112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQDRoFCPnpa6c3Gg5gqepYLibqrK35vS7n5FRTGOV_EQ10R8oI0hKhJqytKjVZvYLg85ijwb1BwM_KZi6PgP2cnlXtJqGMCJoOCr8thk1FDnOQ43rn56bqHpvE4p1eTTy9VP2Chm3z5iX/s400/DSCN1112.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ikerasak</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHoeKKkXYbDlZ725bNOMKYRThyIamPodD9aSn8524aBIuW-TWoG74kJdmE7hX6Gs9YQYPbLW9r2Rbx-X4sCC7nnDoEcdAYd6tyyjidNlHJw2l8A0P2hoFirhIcPwyi0O8BEbOhQMgzSolh/s1600/DSCN1106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHoeKKkXYbDlZ725bNOMKYRThyIamPodD9aSn8524aBIuW-TWoG74kJdmE7hX6Gs9YQYPbLW9r2Rbx-X4sCC7nnDoEcdAYd6tyyjidNlHJw2l8A0P2hoFirhIcPwyi0O8BEbOhQMgzSolh/s400/DSCN1106.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few foundations and a graveyard are all that remains of Ikerasak</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The next stop was Maniitsoq to refuel and get some fresh produce. There is an interesting museum there, well worth a few hours to look through.<br />
Nomad was very carefully tied to the hotel's floating dock. It was lightly built for the small motorboats that everyone uses in Greenland, not big heavy schooners. Definitely a fair weather dock only, and at $20USD a night it has the distinction of being the most expensive dock in all of Greenland.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2llBDErpsyGrAyCowwq4eUlhPNETjLPBchTsJMZ5V0gBX1Lj5lwp2qalORh9w1Qhp3SWQ3HNg5pnnaGTF7Cvz7rr6Uf915uyqL4AXxBnwg0vGC-pbXHJnjsZI5gXCFOsXKqO42rfLHXxK/s1600/DSCN1125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2llBDErpsyGrAyCowwq4eUlhPNETjLPBchTsJMZ5V0gBX1Lj5lwp2qalORh9w1Qhp3SWQ3HNg5pnnaGTF7Cvz7rr6Uf915uyqL4AXxBnwg0vGC-pbXHJnjsZI5gXCFOsXKqO42rfLHXxK/s400/DSCN1125.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad on the little boat dock in Maniitsoq</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0V86zuhf1-e-s_yFmvXKeetHFIKlNNysLkBYEfyKWfEavtCmGqsCLZinbm70Z55s21OvS1YWOeHmHDFr_vwmbnhiGKVWOkOTXTUEO71J5xtUhc8m3P1E5b3C4P6VhVpfAmIT7sjbXQceY/s1600/DSCN1130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0V86zuhf1-e-s_yFmvXKeetHFIKlNNysLkBYEfyKWfEavtCmGqsCLZinbm70Z55s21OvS1YWOeHmHDFr_vwmbnhiGKVWOkOTXTUEO71J5xtUhc8m3P1E5b3C4P6VhVpfAmIT7sjbXQceY/s400/DSCN1130.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maniitsoq</td></tr>
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Departing Maniitsoq, Nomad turned inland to visit the spectacular mountains of Hamborgerland. It was another long memorable day. As I turned to go up Sermilinguaq fjord to check out the glaciers a large whale was jumping out of the water repeatedly. The poorly charted fjord was quite deep until just past the island near the end where the moraine came up abruptly, unexpectedly far from the glacier's face. After a full astern emergency stop, I turned about for deeper waters and drifted about for some time taking pictures and a nice lunch break before returning to the brisk fjord (head)winds in Hamborgersund.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyuVWnBO6DCu9BEffANkNr2MGWiHOtIww4zjGmiaaeL31hjvYq7Yiy2m4IMLcZHiVR6sqOPBWVNc7IC9P5x9IUKHv2V9b94isGjDnP3L8G0ua3uDAJSjFpLySsual1lh3VtLUQhedmGCWw/s1600/DSCN1168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyuVWnBO6DCu9BEffANkNr2MGWiHOtIww4zjGmiaaeL31hjvYq7Yiy2m4IMLcZHiVR6sqOPBWVNc7IC9P5x9IUKHv2V9b94isGjDnP3L8G0ua3uDAJSjFpLySsual1lh3VtLUQhedmGCWw/s400/DSCN1168.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The glacier at the head of Sermilinguaq fjord.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY44q5Rs82McMx5wecmgc5FbuxE3h5060obx2tqD5TxwPIcfEW1z02znkja8-eAY4xf7svL_dKbqaMLYyybnfgSHKmi5pFOvyZzmy-TY83tcyyQ2Yb_9mdOWYXsKXBiTT543lwyJg5wjrk/s1600/DSCN1162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY44q5Rs82McMx5wecmgc5FbuxE3h5060obx2tqD5TxwPIcfEW1z02znkja8-eAY4xf7svL_dKbqaMLYyybnfgSHKmi5pFOvyZzmy-TY83tcyyQ2Yb_9mdOWYXsKXBiTT543lwyJg5wjrk/s400/DSCN1162.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were numerous waterfalls and many birds in Sermilinguaq fjord</td></tr>
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<br />
This remarkable day continued with more spectacular mountain scenery all the way to the anchorage at Appamiut. I spent two nights anchored in the eastern bay enjoying the scenery and doing a lot of hiking before moving on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jk_xDIlX6ptESY2qjex0ecjBYSMCQGjOW1rqNUw4JyEUa-Xx9-lgL84K43EBTpBqHbdgKa_VjAmh_jnkfFpctSRcAb-uqz0a4c4WADYpJE9Gj8cNtBfUzJGDeLbLsvtpSy8tZ_fW6zzy/s1600/DSCN1115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jk_xDIlX6ptESY2qjex0ecjBYSMCQGjOW1rqNUw4JyEUa-Xx9-lgL84K43EBTpBqHbdgKa_VjAmh_jnkfFpctSRcAb-uqz0a4c4WADYpJE9Gj8cNtBfUzJGDeLbLsvtpSy8tZ_fW6zzy/s400/DSCN1115.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bug protection is mandatory hiking in Greenland</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs2GQgPW3x753S32qbVlD57Y_FUEVnR1VqaYt0blI-UHRGkU_r_-MOvEe2up1bri3FGpVBGECQ2jJVxkUdQ_FuDdyMgu8md86qFWoLwstSAMAN7gjUlPUENSBWF50eiE9AlTLOnL5dKozc/s1600/DSCN1221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs2GQgPW3x753S32qbVlD57Y_FUEVnR1VqaYt0blI-UHRGkU_r_-MOvEe2up1bri3FGpVBGECQ2jJVxkUdQ_FuDdyMgu8md86qFWoLwstSAMAN7gjUlPUENSBWF50eiE9AlTLOnL5dKozc/s400/DSCN1221.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored in Appamiut </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGtZ97XwMuliBfrMHEIuXDisJg2tkvpwENg0iskxWWo98JESUsFo9mRvMLfBf9DwCB34Wv6fX2zDf5IpXw_6ah4MBn88F6gtuZ5Up6l4ciC4EigZNKV8cz0vkJ_dzYRJ9G5M5Xztp68Nw/s1600/DSCN1209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGtZ97XwMuliBfrMHEIuXDisJg2tkvpwENg0iskxWWo98JESUsFo9mRvMLfBf9DwCB34Wv6fX2zDf5IpXw_6ah4MBn88F6gtuZ5Up6l4ciC4EigZNKV8cz0vkJ_dzYRJ9G5M5Xztp68Nw/s400/DSCN1209.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mountains of Hamborgerland</td></tr>
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Sisimiut is the next town to the north. It's a long days trip from Appamiut at sailboat speed. I decided to stop about thirty three miles south of Sisimiut and anchored behind a large island at Anders Olsens Sund for some rest. The magnetic anomaly noted in the Admiralty pilot in this area does exist. The autopilot would not hold a course and the compass would swing through a one hundred eighty degree arc every time I turned the boat more than a few degrees. This necessitated steering by hand for nearly ten hours.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3wPK1LZxeerDKnEGzKLnVNeQ-1E6UdWoBAhEyP_d1cNeWdqU0_OEFd4QUw9jfZXtcKQJDpcZIqMnKTZp8mojtALg1S3SR8pwW9oLmb6fpRfmQUpQB01hUbL_vgq3TF0P9Sr9LTxqnzpfv/s1600/DSCN1226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3wPK1LZxeerDKnEGzKLnVNeQ-1E6UdWoBAhEyP_d1cNeWdqU0_OEFd4QUw9jfZXtcKQJDpcZIqMnKTZp8mojtALg1S3SR8pwW9oLmb6fpRfmQUpQB01hUbL_vgq3TF0P9Sr9LTxqnzpfv/s400/DSCN1226.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Midnight near the Arctic Circle</td></tr>
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A good night's rest does wonders after a challenging day. I finished up the last few miles into Sisimiut the next day. Following the range marks on the south entrance kept me off the nearby rocks in a brisk crosswind. The back bay is blocked by a bridge, leaving the small boat harbor and a small cove on the north shore the only options available. The harbor was very crowded with little space to maneuver so I anchored in the cove with two lines run ashore. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFp2-s9LeqGJmELp3p1XXgg8vWB7EFSexE9MYz_atXqpp6Fuk3cj9QthM4ZR0kKIyU4A72CLHIU7BUWW2lJkPTBsqtLWHG3UDR7wp2ksOO1VcwOsi_DnUcAWzSVTS5G4XuuopVMH6Uw60/s1600/DSCN1249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFp2-s9LeqGJmELp3p1XXgg8vWB7EFSexE9MYz_atXqpp6Fuk3cj9QthM4ZR0kKIyU4A72CLHIU7BUWW2lJkPTBsqtLWHG3UDR7wp2ksOO1VcwOsi_DnUcAWzSVTS5G4XuuopVMH6Uw60/s400/DSCN1249.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tribute to the fishermen of Sisimiut overlooking the anchorage.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Sisimiut is an interesting town, one of my favorites. I spent a few days exploring this place, hiking and checking out the local museum. The local market had whale and seal, so I tried them both for dinner. "How do you cook this?" "Fry it with onions and rice or potatoes " Greenlandic cooking is pretty simple. The local Telepost store was quite helpful and replaced my hotspot so I could get internet again. Internet is expensive and there are no free wifi places anywhere. Internet is a very important part of sailing here to receive weather and ice reports. I was unable to receive weather faxes over shortwave for nearly this entire trip and the local forecast were of little use and very difficult to understand.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6StkcVjdYYGjstCDDoJLRB_R3Lp3suSTmLVcJ3MKuRCvDa-xEdNR-zyqNk6sXXfermCKFhCtGfMVBJ2SJxBowBGSLewN9x7RxtG-Dar1BJfHKJgqO7t0SQRC4Rt-EItXvSp9CTsYKqELg/s1600/DSCN1256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6StkcVjdYYGjstCDDoJLRB_R3Lp3suSTmLVcJ3MKuRCvDa-xEdNR-zyqNk6sXXfermCKFhCtGfMVBJ2SJxBowBGSLewN9x7RxtG-Dar1BJfHKJgqO7t0SQRC4Rt-EItXvSp9CTsYKqELg/s400/DSCN1256.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sisimiut</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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With a reasonable weather forecast in hand once again, it was time to continue north. The wind became much stronger than forecast but with the help of a following current I was able to maintain five knots motoring into twenty five knots and very steep eight to twelve foot seas. This was making progress but the violent motion of the wind and sea going against each other was too uncomfortable to carry on. I found some shelter behind some rocky islands at Ukiivik. The next morning the wind had shifted and the fog lifted so I hastily got underway to take advantage of the weather. Nomad was under full sail for the first time since arriving in Greenland! Later in the evening the wind dropped and the fog returned. The first anchorage noted in the guidebook for Faeringe Nordhavn fjord offered scant protection in the current conditions, so I continued on to the end of the fjord and anchored in some shallow water. Too close to the end as it appeared in the morning. Although I had allowed enough for the eight to ten foot tides in this area to avoid grounding at low tide there were a number of boulders uncomfortably close to the boat exposed as the tide receded. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrAYFmx0ykVh9lutlNE1DP9_cdOWtwIHSP-aOZ7ZxYRt48zDzLOUyzazcNDzS5rhhSHeP3pq7wVG4xeEGR3xcSNYq_Fi9tPtVE_oqWPRvpt3r9Ln6Rpn4sDDixwtyrQKVMHJ8IV7FjG5hC/s1600/DSCN1267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrAYFmx0ykVh9lutlNE1DP9_cdOWtwIHSP-aOZ7ZxYRt48zDzLOUyzazcNDzS5rhhSHeP3pq7wVG4xeEGR3xcSNYq_Fi9tPtVE_oqWPRvpt3r9Ln6Rpn4sDDixwtyrQKVMHJ8IV7FjG5hC/s400/DSCN1267.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Growler. About the size of a pickup truck, mostly underwater.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqWxkBpqHlIZCl9sUGRYHVzpYWNZAG7Wt7hYzdVnz10MVT6UejHsjSWgyLPWN8bbzqX_oNaxdjbgYwy5o9JOPUOXuXW4iIgnW3TsnVUfLuogP1jpiBc0rO2a7eyaSF0CQzcFL_mGDw4tU/s1600/DSCN1868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqWxkBpqHlIZCl9sUGRYHVzpYWNZAG7Wt7hYzdVnz10MVT6UejHsjSWgyLPWN8bbzqX_oNaxdjbgYwy5o9JOPUOXuXW4iIgnW3TsnVUfLuogP1jpiBc0rO2a7eyaSF0CQzcFL_mGDw4tU/s400/DSCN1868.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A large iceberg in the fog.</td></tr>
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The weather in the fjords is completely different from conditions outside and Faeringe Nordhavn was no exception. The sunshine and good sailing wind that disappeared at the entrance was replaced with dense fog on a glassy calm ocean. Getting closer to Disko Bay, icebergs were becoming more numerous along the coast. there were a few off shore but most were grounded near shore. These were all clearly visible on the radar, but the growlers and bergy bits that fall off of them are not. It was an tense eighteen hours getting into Aasiaat passing a few growlers that were unseen until they were next to the boat and the occasional thump of some unseen bit being shouldered aside by the bobstay.<br />
Nomad arrived in Aasiaat at 0400 after picking her way through icebergs and narrow rocky channels in very dense fog without incident. I quit trying to explore the harbor in zero visibility conditions after carefully backing out of a cluster of small boats anchored close together. What was on the radar was different from what was on the chart, so I tied up to the first big boat that I found to put an end to a very long day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdv6kOhryy4gWHKlg6KarMECdqKFU0fX2bw6Dl4gBntki60weNkVRd1ds3Rnd1GnIVZOBSVPxcF2oql0EKO6UWvzEGbP8R1elVjxFrUnZuGBUYyAKhMRdLb5iV7fvR9ZjYHL-k-85siih/s1600/DSCN1271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdv6kOhryy4gWHKlg6KarMECdqKFU0fX2bw6Dl4gBntki60weNkVRd1ds3Rnd1GnIVZOBSVPxcF2oql0EKO6UWvzEGbP8R1elVjxFrUnZuGBUYyAKhMRdLb5iV7fvR9ZjYHL-k-85siih/s400/DSCN1271.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aasiaat, without the fog.</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-89393745258004923632017-07-19T08:22:00.000-07:002017-07-19T08:22:40.302-07:00Notes on St John's Newfoundland<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1bJBBFvcSGAoUlqueiSoUB2Rp3LKbeDKeRb0D3glWARg72ScRxb44_TdWbzgrp4HhRn3pDR6mmDH6acSGJZVJpPkKiZ6HEC3N37-Gg44EFN-t_uI9yknCsBJRsh22wv-SqBAXgoU269_/s1600/DSCN0533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1bJBBFvcSGAoUlqueiSoUB2Rp3LKbeDKeRb0D3glWARg72ScRxb44_TdWbzgrp4HhRn3pDR6mmDH6acSGJZVJpPkKiZ6HEC3N37-Gg44EFN-t_uI9yknCsBJRsh22wv-SqBAXgoU269_/s400/DSCN0533.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad at Pier 6</td></tr>
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Arriving in St John’s at sunset, I told Traffic that my destination was the Queen’s Wharf. Motoring slowly through the harbor, I searched for the floating docks in the area indicated by the guidebook without success. At the far end of the harbor I spotted a few sailboats, so I headed there and rafted up to them on Pier 6 behind the Fish Exchange building. The rates at St John’s Port authority for Nomad were $9.85 per day with a minimum charge of $53.44 or a monthly fee of $245.88. The Queen’s Wharf floating dock were not in place during the 2016 season due to construction. I observed that their location near the harbor entrance experienced some surge frequently, while Nomad was nearly motionless at the back of the harbor on Pier 6. It is a very convenient location with many coffee shops and pubs nearby. Fiddler's and The Second Cup are recommended. City buses stop one street up from the Pier providing easy access to all of St John’s. I was looking for a place to leave the boat for an upcoming job and was advised that this harbor could experience considerable amount of surge in easterly storms and it was not advisable to leave the boat unattended there. After a few weeks in St John’s restocking the boat with parts and groceries that I have not been able to source in a long time, I sailed around the Avalon peninsula into Conception Bay.<br />
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Groceries: Dominion and Sobey’s are in walking distance.<br />
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Shopping mall, Canadian tire, Home Depot Walmart and all the other big box stores are a short bus ride from downtown.<br />
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Marine supplies: everything is available here, try Bluewater, ESL, Spartan, Mercer’s (Clarenville, they will deliver to St John’s).<br />
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Fuel: the Ultramar down the street from the Pier does not have diesel. They will deliver fuel to the dock, but have a $50 delivery fee. I used A -1 Fuels, 709-747-9000. No charge for delivery to the Pier.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A-1 refueling Nomad and other boats at Pier6</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXk8fRamfuMHgNHRKq7s2DBlADrZPGL1mhq5ZwXC5Y08Uj3nkZcyYpF5cdFjP1zzZBr4nGn1MvWMHNy_58iwcm4ig4enlLBVrSXapA6Aj7rVF9KhrnI9SgMb5zM8fG2zxi7SyTsDRG3Cbe/s1600/DSCN0537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXk8fRamfuMHgNHRKq7s2DBlADrZPGL1mhq5ZwXC5Y08Uj3nkZcyYpF5cdFjP1zzZBr4nGn1MvWMHNy_58iwcm4ig4enlLBVrSXapA6Aj7rVF9KhrnI9SgMb5zM8fG2zxi7SyTsDRG3Cbe/s400/DSCN0537.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water Street<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoztbhalrbEvu6Qrc3FVF6QRhyphenhyphen4be9uEbie6Wnq_v52PcM1Mjva-AmfYhzFD1wFkqDPWYKDP90cArhpKSbCkblO2lSgP3KkvQvOG_2cOTIyJABj_s3fZSGQqVipiNFiTgyTjf29FzCmxG/s1600/DSCN0542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoztbhalrbEvu6Qrc3FVF6QRhyphenhyphen4be9uEbie6Wnq_v52PcM1Mjva-AmfYhzFD1wFkqDPWYKDP90cArhpKSbCkblO2lSgP3KkvQvOG_2cOTIyJABj_s3fZSGQqVipiNFiTgyTjf29FzCmxG/s400/DSCN0542.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a steep climb up on"The Rock" from the waterfront</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-13386048964161646592016-09-08T15:38:00.001-07:002016-09-08T15:38:40.815-07:00South to North Transatlantic, Suriname to CanadaThis voyage started like many others, months later than I would have preferred. Boat maintenance and another delivery job pushed back my departure from Suriname until 09 July. While sailing the Atlantic in midsummer is quite pleasant, it requires constant vigilance regarding the weather as tropical storms may form at any time. Fortunately, the weather remained stable throughout the passage with tropical activity only beginning the week after I arrived in St John's Newfoundland.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The journey began on the tropical Suriname River</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the voyage concludes at Fort Amherst, St John's, Newfoundland</td></tr>
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The trip began hot and wet. Sail was set at the sea bouy and Nomad reached right out into the tradewinds. With the strong equatorial current and the tradewinds on the beam it was necessary to sail on a very close reach to maintain a northerly course. Nomad would take a good blast of spray across the deck with nearly every wave making it impossible to open the hatch or ports for ventilation. For the first week of the voyage it was quite warm inside! The weather remained pleasant for most of the voyage. Reaching 41N it was a little cool at night. The next night a jacket was needed, then Nomad crossed onto the olive green waters of the Grand Banks and it was time for long underwear and the wool hat, courtesy of the Labrador current bringing cold water down from the Arctic. About a hundred miles south of Newfoundland I encountered the only headwinds of the trip. A deep low to the south and a high to the north made for an east then northeasterly wind for a couple of days. As the wind backed around, it forced me further west. I had sailed to within 80 miles of St Pierre and was considering ending the voyage there, but the wind backed around before I reached the Burin Peninsula. With the wind now firmly northwest and backing I tacked and resumed heading for St John's, arriving two days later with a stiff southwesterly behind me. It was during this time that I crossed my eastbound track out of St Pierre from 2014, closing the circle on Nomad' first circumnavigation of the North Atlantic Ocean.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most days looked like this</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some days in mid ocean were like this</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCI_axdDApNbqbqN87F4nYhriFzA_oC6oDRG8XaUI2RFHUdIAcCigODgadVC7pHLgtWGrutJ3vsFWdaZ4Q0Un_mo5UwMwv6TsTPKe6x-FOXbchCifaif9QB5HdfVUXAoT30L78o5JyI4Q2/s1600/DSCN0430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCI_axdDApNbqbqN87F4nYhriFzA_oC6oDRG8XaUI2RFHUdIAcCigODgadVC7pHLgtWGrutJ3vsFWdaZ4Q0Un_mo5UwMwv6TsTPKe6x-FOXbchCifaif9QB5HdfVUXAoT30L78o5JyI4Q2/s400/DSCN0430.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was usually how most days started out</td></tr>
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Twenty eight days and 2726 miles from Suriname to Newfoundland with no major problems or weather systems to deal with makes for a pleasant trip but not much to write about. It was fairly routine dealing with the daily repairs mostly due to chafe and the vigorous motion of being underway for nearly a month. I tried one of the stock safety tubes for the windvane, it only lasted a thousand miles before breaking, so it was replaced with a heavier gauge tube. Chafe wore through the windvane control lines several times. Chafe also caused the loss of the spinner on the taffrail log. Since replacements are getting hard to find, I decided to stow it before I lost another.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLcSU5gi-8LKKPAPxamjz6Uog0Wq4t0VFq6Ahm-oESJFgMtGidd-SjvbyNKr_d9ItTQerDJoWuRDO6NZI35XhRERintsdaOHfgkLoF15BXsmvaD9L5INO4r0lXe7novXYBjSWCOziBztL/s1600/DSCN0522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLcSU5gi-8LKKPAPxamjz6Uog0Wq4t0VFq6Ahm-oESJFgMtGidd-SjvbyNKr_d9ItTQerDJoWuRDO6NZI35XhRERintsdaOHfgkLoF15BXsmvaD9L5INO4r0lXe7novXYBjSWCOziBztL/s400/DSCN0522.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land ho! For the first time in twenty eight days</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making speed along the Avalon Peninsula. St John's by sunset!</td></tr>
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It was not all work and studying weather faxes. A nice singlehander sized mahi mahi grabbed the fishing line and it became three huge meals and a bowl of ceviche before it was gone. I didn't trail the fishing line after catching that one, as I had eaten enough fresh fish for awhile! I was quite happy to catch the smaller size fish. A huge mahi mahi such as we caught on the trip across from The Gambia would have been difficult to handle singlehandedly and would have been way more fish than I needed. I was prepared this time with extra lime juice and kilos of salt onboard in case I caught the "big one".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEyE8vhj-zviNH_IGJf4l4djbeD8y3J_vAics1mV8vyQmOyrLKY9Z78vt9uG5EJjCr5YkLcEx0H_PA4Vr_4sjOwGWMGZEpnjgVoSb8l1a7YHiG8i7WocjBHRKacWhlZcSc2lul9Uut-oc/s1600/storage_emulated_0_Nikon_WU_Card_D07082016_001_101NIKON_DSCN0463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEyE8vhj-zviNH_IGJf4l4djbeD8y3J_vAics1mV8vyQmOyrLKY9Z78vt9uG5EJjCr5YkLcEx0H_PA4Vr_4sjOwGWMGZEpnjgVoSb8l1a7YHiG8i7WocjBHRKacWhlZcSc2lul9Uut-oc/s400/storage_emulated_0_Nikon_WU_Card_D07082016_001_101NIKON_DSCN0463.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh fish on the menu for dinner. And breakfast, lunch and the next dinner. And snacks in between.</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-13695459991203577792016-08-30T21:25:00.002-07:002016-08-30T21:32:11.506-07:00Nomad's year in Suriname<br />
Nomad arrived in Suriname at the height of the rainy season, blown in from the ocean on the back of the first rain squall she had experienced in many months. Sailing just another seven miles upriver past Paramaribo, the anchor was dropped in the town of Domburg. This far upriver the fast flowing Suriname River is fresh water that rapidly dissolved all the saltwater flora and barnacles picked up on the crossing. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOs237MvQM8Im9nGiqL0Msvkeu3U0VSf5mMFiwGSqytvCwoa8H1tVuzztVnqdwDUtHBw54i-WGkle3RH6L39QO9llg3xj3eFnkp-4djww6uBWI6ttFwhCaZl8A64APLEjgLQnyYKolGW6/s1600/P_20150730_184612_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOs237MvQM8Im9nGiqL0Msvkeu3U0VSf5mMFiwGSqytvCwoa8H1tVuzztVnqdwDUtHBw54i-WGkle3RH6L39QO9llg3xj3eFnkp-4djww6uBWI6ttFwhCaZl8A64APLEjgLQnyYKolGW6/s400/P_20150730_184612_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The anchorage/mooring in Domburg</td></tr>
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Domburg is a small town that is ideally situated for cruisers. There is a small park where the water taxi lands and most of the village congregates in the evening with Saturdays and Sundays being quite busy. Most anything you could need is available there with several stores and two gas stations selling diesel fuel within walking distance of the waterfront. There are a number of small markets selling fresh produce and some small restaurants on the Waterkant. For more varied shopping in Paramaribo, there are several buses that pick up right at the waterfront in the morning. Returning before the evening buses is not on a schedule as they will only make the trip back from Paramaribo when they are full of passengers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdV6pnAfz6ryDsWJVq-QoqYvSdJvablLV85-gGGNVmgS3EpiSuwiUBGJMvkJoI99YqS9Nc-yYctDjwEHoa5kE2Lnzw17zvGht0-yfGsoO9CK0lq62RGeqirlLdoaLK_OWOkEjywyWau8C/s1600/P_20150714_172653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdV6pnAfz6ryDsWJVq-QoqYvSdJvablLV85-gGGNVmgS3EpiSuwiUBGJMvkJoI99YqS9Nc-yYctDjwEHoa5kE2Lnzw17zvGht0-yfGsoO9CK0lq62RGeqirlLdoaLK_OWOkEjywyWau8C/s400/P_20150714_172653.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pet birds are popular, and they are taken everywhere.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2aIKEZ09VfrUtG_6BdntY_RvYwd0FCVWnKwGObb8eu0epevRvmRsa8empNPRKI3JIp8KE-lbWPnV_vuXUVEi55QWqm_s-IExjj5Nsj23RSboM4vqlQtdcIifd0ADKNZaPxoZopkvNVWlS/s1600/P_20150714_171056_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2aIKEZ09VfrUtG_6BdntY_RvYwd0FCVWnKwGObb8eu0epevRvmRsa8empNPRKI3JIp8KE-lbWPnV_vuXUVEi55QWqm_s-IExjj5Nsj23RSboM4vqlQtdcIifd0ADKNZaPxoZopkvNVWlS/s400/P_20150714_171056_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It rains a lot here!</td></tr>
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The Harbor Resort is the go-to place for cruisers. They maintain a number a number of excellent moorings for those who do not wish to use their own anchors. I left Nomad unattended twice on one of their moorings with no problems. Owned by Huib, the harbor resort was under the management of Gaby , who has since returned to the cruising life and is now run by Nettie and her husband, also cruisers. They sailed from Europe and liked it so well they have been here for eight years. If there is anything you can’t find, ask them. The Harbor Resort has showers and pool, included in the price of the mooring. They also have the coldest beer in town.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYK3IQD7uIf5HUhiYVivOAHfup7EhHcDOo5R8Qqz6j1YHLW-DsA8cyDIG-e8zZxgrM-lCjKeHl9G4EGnYO0ogJ9dyV6qk0iND7CCOSsgOKoSNU9Z7ptN6iV4Y6av0bAY4P1lNAq8YR5i4t/s1600/P_20150907_183254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYK3IQD7uIf5HUhiYVivOAHfup7EhHcDOo5R8Qqz6j1YHLW-DsA8cyDIG-e8zZxgrM-lCjKeHl9G4EGnYO0ogJ9dyV6qk0iND7CCOSsgOKoSNU9Z7ptN6iV4Y6av0bAY4P1lNAq8YR5i4t/s400/P_20150907_183254.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dutch board games at The Harbor Resort</td></tr>
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Jungle exploration is just a few steps out of town. It is a great way to check out the variety of tropical plants and wildlife. Rubber boots and insect repellent required! And a compass is a good idea. Walking into the dense jungle foliage in a matter of minutes you will not be able to see where you came from. Aside from the curiosity of the new environment, the jungle also provided some much needed boat parts. With forests of bamboo, it was easy to replace the damaged and suspect battens in Nomad’s sails.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWB0H-3C3gyJRpGjFmZKvJlywrpQy6A8zocatkQLXU2Dvt7cJ_A9nSEs8ws-zVok9GIfEOeXG9iP_7J0YulFMGpryU45fI8ZIHTB7dJpu6k3Ntb4qIniVXnx9poq6IuoT6VRajllixABcM/s1600/P_20150720_154538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWB0H-3C3gyJRpGjFmZKvJlywrpQy6A8zocatkQLXU2Dvt7cJ_A9nSEs8ws-zVok9GIfEOeXG9iP_7J0YulFMGpryU45fI8ZIHTB7dJpu6k3Ntb4qIniVXnx9poq6IuoT6VRajllixABcM/s400/P_20150720_154538.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The jungle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCailpIy91_7R6qbIWXLBzfrPWBvsQnPYFh3WZB3H2na1sAoIh6F0H69o96P3X0c_j_yIovXUoXpBvi8y2OBJn5cin5t7NRaBqdR2ufndvqqfCzplDtJKvNmPp4BV_99rxqHCl0l5h_jDx/s1600/P_20150627_140224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCailpIy91_7R6qbIWXLBzfrPWBvsQnPYFh3WZB3H2na1sAoIh6F0H69o96P3X0c_j_yIovXUoXpBvi8y2OBJn5cin5t7NRaBqdR2ufndvqqfCzplDtJKvNmPp4BV_99rxqHCl0l5h_jDx/s400/P_20150627_140224.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting plants.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNA8v8DqridHMIf6VeWrN6yCZGzF2EehGcJdEOd0HPjuFGQE7P1lB8zAjw6mAH9GdYy_TYbCX2AYpTSkTEOn7Tcx3uhbSYJESbaFxKNCooaEYevTjnZAt_yHZGtpDQvBd0oevJBYeGmF8/s1600/P_20150627_132335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNA8v8DqridHMIf6VeWrN6yCZGzF2EehGcJdEOd0HPjuFGQE7P1lB8zAjw6mAH9GdYy_TYbCX2AYpTSkTEOn7Tcx3uhbSYJESbaFxKNCooaEYevTjnZAt_yHZGtpDQvBd0oevJBYeGmF8/s400/P_20150627_132335.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More tropical flowers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVF634lfrPUCtjIFoxMDPJpw34rM6-x4h06j5BvblY7cRjvP0ZcgGJM6uGimNiwa66DBUvy16titQzxtTEpurQntyNCsw-MntSR_pEUNd-5_smbt58bfz10BgSGjjXlE0In7xZjiJ75F-/s1600/P_20150627_134400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVF634lfrPUCtjIFoxMDPJpw34rM6-x4h06j5BvblY7cRjvP0ZcgGJM6uGimNiwa66DBUvy16titQzxtTEpurQntyNCsw-MntSR_pEUNd-5_smbt58bfz10BgSGjjXlE0In7xZjiJ75F-/s400/P_20150627_134400.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wet hiking</td></tr>
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With all this travelling sooner or later it becomes time to stop and refill the cruising kitty. Lyza was the first one out, returning to Texas to work for a few months. I was the next one out, flying to California to work with a friend for nearly 6 months and do a few delivery jobs. Kris worked locally at The Harbor Resort (the landscaping there is his handiwork) and Surinat. When Lyza returned they put Nomad on a mooring after untangling her anchor chain from a tree picked up anchoring behind the grocery store. Then they set off to explore South America. Another nautical wanderer, Luca, stayed onboard until the end of the year. Nomad stayed alone on a mooring for four more months until I returned. That much time in the tropics did not hurt anything that a good cleaning didn’t cure. Mold and mildew inside and out, mushrooms growing in the bamboo and sails, bright orange fungus growing out of the oars, black and green slime on the deck and lines and spider nests all over inside.<br />
<br />
Within a few weeks of returning, I sourced some bottom paint and made arrangements at Cevihas shipyard to haul out Nomad for a much need bottom job. At thirteen days, it was the quickest haul out I have ever done, but it was quite a challenge. Complicating things was the weather…it was rainy season again. The first time it stopped raining in the evening, I set up worklights and started painting. The security guard promptly came to visit and said that it was forbidden to work after 1800. I had to get special permission from the yard manager to work at night, explaining that I had to paint whenever the rain stopped. When I went to Cevihas to check them out they assured they had 110 volt electricity and showed me where they would put Nomad, right next to the building close by the water and electric. When I arrived, it didn’t work out quite that way. The spot I was supposed to use was still occupied, so Nomad was placed on the other side of the yard. With all the hoses I could borrow connected to mine, I was able to get water to the boat to scrub down the bottom. This was done by hand with scrubbing pads as the promised pressure washer never arrived. I am not sure why, but their 110 volt electricity would not run any of my tools, so all sanding and grinding was done on inverter power. Understandably, the wind generator and solar panels could not keep up with that kind of use, so the solution was to run that long collection of hoses to the water spigot and hook it up to the water inlet for the generator so I could run it to recharge the batteries. This required standing watch near the spigot so nobody would take the hose off to get a drink! Eventually, I did succeed at getting another through hull welded in and two coats of paint on the bottom and topsides. It was a relief to get back in the water as they did not have any of the right jackstands available and the short ones used would shift and require adjustments during some of the heavier squalls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqbN3_cwzcmtl70H8HxIkWhg_3tWVcU-0N7I3H7NOm_nStih0we4GZZtIYB7L8CGIq0kUEb9Uyk_Op9_4XezQTyFa_65KCkhyFZHbHFxy57T6ZKn7W6sWV5saCIduRmkFzFTXBiy8zgre/s1600/P_20160425_124926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqbN3_cwzcmtl70H8HxIkWhg_3tWVcU-0N7I3H7NOm_nStih0we4GZZtIYB7L8CGIq0kUEb9Uyk_Op9_4XezQTyFa_65KCkhyFZHbHFxy57T6ZKn7W6sWV5saCIduRmkFzFTXBiy8zgre/s400/P_20160425_124926.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cevihas at low tide. Hauling and launching is only possible at high tide.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYXgazbu5ZwGx_T7XUhavxtJ92FlFsmEejpPuFp2Jcx7MJDsg8YRy5Q25as0iVXJ17Qdr8lnoPbWdLG4Jq2RuNZgGABNUIHPyMz1MB09iptH9Jxaz3oL-yiA3U1QY0jmcdeYwaa0Eq_98q/s1600/DSCN0318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYXgazbu5ZwGx_T7XUhavxtJ92FlFsmEejpPuFp2Jcx7MJDsg8YRy5Q25as0iVXJ17Qdr8lnoPbWdLG4Jq2RuNZgGABNUIHPyMz1MB09iptH9Jxaz3oL-yiA3U1QY0jmcdeYwaa0Eq_98q/s400/DSCN0318.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost done painting</td></tr>
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Finishing in the shipyard quickly worked well. Shortly after returning to Domburg, another delivery come was ready, so Nomad went back onto a mooring and I flew to the USA for one more job. Upon returning again , fresh provisions were stored. On 9 July, one year and three weeks after arriving in Suriname, Nomad set sail for Newfoundland, Canada.<br />
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Cruising Notes:<br />
Entry formalities are laid back, you need to go Paramaribo and visit MAS, and get a tourist visa from Immigration, directions are available at the Harbor Resort.This needs to be done within two or three days of arriving. Reporting for another stamp at the tourist police (Vreemdelingendienst) monthly is required. If you want to stay longer than 90 days, it is quite acceptable to rent a car and drive to Albina, clear out and take a water taxi or the ferry across to clear in and out of French Guyana and return to re-enter Suriname. Departing by boat, get an exit stamp from Immigration and call MAS on the vhf radio when going by Paramaribo. If you leave and return by airplane, take you your ships papers with you when going in for you thirty day stamp, they will enquire as to your onward ticket when the see the airport entry stamp.<br />
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Anchoring: Behind the red roofed grocery store is good, but beware of trees on the bottom; this is reportedly the the site of an old sawmill. Show an anchor light, anchored or on a mooring. Large ships pass close by the moorings and small unlit sailboats on the river are nearly invisible on a dark moonless night. Anchoring here requires special care due to swift currents and occasional floating islands drifting by. Anchoring here requires that you keep your entire swinging circle clear of other vessels as the vagaries of wind and current are unpredictable; it is not unusual for boats to be facing each other or your anchor to be behind you! The current switches direction with every tide, the ebb is noticeably stronger.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs8pIByQHj_ul1lq_PsQ7G4KEkcld9EgWOI5yEznZpQQrhKZxSC4Dbt0SabKNno0Bxe12JXxSXOOl6NYCk03FnTpMf9nUqPrtnynz6KFlEvsj2_nIhri3Px4qOXY-fL9CEBj7Yhgi82Y8I/s1600/P_20150712_160817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs8pIByQHj_ul1lq_PsQ7G4KEkcld9EgWOI5yEznZpQQrhKZxSC4Dbt0SabKNno0Bxe12JXxSXOOl6NYCk03FnTpMf9nUqPrtnynz6KFlEvsj2_nIhri3Px4qOXY-fL9CEBj7Yhgi82Y8I/s400/P_20150712_160817.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small random floating island drifting on the river</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tree hauled upin the anchor chain by Lyza and Kris when moving to the mooring.</td></tr>
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Navigation: Plan your movements with the tide, currents are normally 2-4 knots. Visibility can be greatly reduced in frequent heavy rains.<br />
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Diesel fuel can be jugged from nearby service stations or make arrangements with the nearby fishing boat company.<br />
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Propane cans are refilled at Ingas, Euros and USD happily accepted here. Telephone 482255. They will also pick up and deliver for a small charge.<br />
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Money: The large red roofed grocery store will happily take Euros or USD for a reasonable exchange rate. There is an ATM machine next to the gas station. It is not advisable to change a large sum unless you need it because of the rapidly changing exchange rate.<br />
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Taxi/car rental is quite reasonable. Ritchie handles both, and his drivers will reliably pick you up and drop you off at the airport on time. Mr. Harry is a retired gentleman that also provides a taxi service. Their numbers are available at the Harbor Resort.<br />
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Language: Dutch and Sirnan Tongo are the official languages, and English is widely spoken as well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dMbHKGQZX0_Z7uQAcD_i7auVPJj5nwjbCohIX9YicYOb8wEYr3GjeLDeowRHWaFlFyDJNNrlmjGT4edcmhV03Ag1MzvHqaZ8qoqArqNhMeO1AInzrVFdrJUGNyOLXlGeHzXKV9IWD3Po/s1600/P_20150714_142027_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dMbHKGQZX0_Z7uQAcD_i7auVPJj5nwjbCohIX9YicYOb8wEYr3GjeLDeowRHWaFlFyDJNNrlmjGT4edcmhV03Ag1MzvHqaZ8qoqArqNhMeO1AInzrVFdrJUGNyOLXlGeHzXKV9IWD3Po/s400/P_20150714_142027_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local small craft in Paramaribo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church in Paramaribo, built entirely with wood.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmBvb7WeGaV0XiZxgCfAOu55jxP7z_ksaJNbcE7Z9hCgza1gn0k5_r_zJPAoTTdbaoAu5Hh54XUh1oGeXgom48HS8TZZm6n8bUBdY9tnwv5eblO3ac7qHHVAaVsa1PKEL9IFJGelWCtlqq/s1600/P_20150714_135244_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmBvb7WeGaV0XiZxgCfAOu55jxP7z_ksaJNbcE7Z9hCgza1gn0k5_r_zJPAoTTdbaoAu5Hh54XUh1oGeXgom48HS8TZZm6n8bUBdY9tnwv5eblO3ac7qHHVAaVsa1PKEL9IFJGelWCtlqq/s400/P_20150714_135244_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Historic homes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnZEB5q8_AZi8x1sLuyq4Du6bgY2zjLH4NHG0QoHNCnDcMzKpGbGGASR-Y2qteFXmznZA1yAIPaU73V7J_CNaeunMHatccsTpORaj3mB2vtUIWAvuHjewxpcBDU7F8xtn61KV4Qh2ob2o_/s1600/P_20150714_141310_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnZEB5q8_AZi8x1sLuyq4Du6bgY2zjLH4NHG0QoHNCnDcMzKpGbGGASR-Y2qteFXmznZA1yAIPaU73V7J_CNaeunMHatccsTpORaj3mB2vtUIWAvuHjewxpcBDU7F8xtn61KV4Qh2ob2o_/s400/P_20150714_141310_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Along the Waterkant, Paramaribo.</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-91506528991826328232016-01-09T16:11:00.000-08:002016-01-09T16:11:42.916-08:00A brief taste of the Pacific Ocean<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1kXhtiycXLxGNGkXsVnuXXLmu1C6UI4IQo5B5F7R1o2rmjUxCBtNY-jOpptSUA1lnGPLHl3tCjh_7m-nxHeVE5zjhyphenhyphen0KfpreRSHw70XnKHFRdUgh07iVdm40cFciwsNCiS5QwD2CH-x1A/s1600/GOPR0296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1kXhtiycXLxGNGkXsVnuXXLmu1C6UI4IQo5B5F7R1o2rmjUxCBtNY-jOpptSUA1lnGPLHl3tCjh_7m-nxHeVE5zjhyphenhyphen0KfpreRSHw70XnKHFRdUgh07iVdm40cFciwsNCiS5QwD2CH-x1A/s320/GOPR0296.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natasha</td></tr>
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This blog is about Nomad's travels, but the nomad on Nomad does tend to wander about. I was working my through the project list on Nomad this summer when I received a message from a friend asking me to deliver his boat from Baja MX to San Francisco CA. Not a pleasant ride in the best of weather, central California is 1000+ miles from Mexico straight into the prevailing NW winds . Natasha is not an unfamiliar boat, I helped sail her to San Francisco the year before Nomad was purchased and have spent some time on her over the years while visiting. This is not like my usual commercial delivery jobs, there was time for play and hanging out with friends before heading north.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchorage at Isla San Francisco</td></tr>
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After checking out the boat and getting some provisions onboard, we picked up another friend and set off for a week's sail in the Sea of Cortez, visiting Isla San Francisco and Isla Perdita. Both islands had magnificent hiking and bouldering as well as the usual clear warm water swimming. It was really nice to be back in the desert again, even if only for a short time. Play time was over all to soon and it was time to return to LaPaz to provision the boat for the long journey north.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking on Isla San Francisco</td></tr>
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Within sight of LaPaz the electric auto pilot failed , leaving me only with the windvane to steer the boat. Although the windvane is my preferred method of staying on course, it is of no use when motoring through calms. After clearing out of Mexico in LaPaz, I had the best sailing of the trip on the trip with brisk northerly winds over the stern pushing Natasha along towards Cabo San Lucas at speeds occasionally reaching nine knots. I put her to anchor at Bahia Los Frailes for two days to get somethings sorted out and try to stop some leaks in preparation for the long beat to windward after rounding the bottom of the Baja penisula. The weather had settled while I was anchored and thre trip around the cape was done under power in a flat calm. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking south from a cave on Isla Perdita</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking to the top of Isla Perdita would be no fun in the rain</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natasha sailing in the Sea of Cortez</td></tr>
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The trip north went as expected with a few gales, and calms during which Natasha was driven under power straight north, though most of the ride was just a long beat to windward.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The usual view heading north</td></tr>
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They voyage from LaPaz was 2165 miles over 25 days from departing LaPaz to arriving at her home dock in Berkeley at my usual arrival time of midnight.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw6B84eca2vMldJx3qztZSEo7IUT9LrjDeILBLLgLJZBO5DKIhgBTXne-uNKcjBm6zLtWiTal3X89DS3UWpYtFuOKobYiJRct0FErkU8GP0KtB6uTEVsp9fnj6xklbktY7H70kao4QJZoj/s1600/P_20151122_171347_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw6B84eca2vMldJx3qztZSEo7IUT9LrjDeILBLLgLJZBO5DKIhgBTXne-uNKcjBm6zLtWiTal3X89DS3UWpYtFuOKobYiJRct0FErkU8GP0KtB6uTEVsp9fnj6xklbktY7H70kao4QJZoj/s320/P_20151122_171347_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some sunrises were stunning in the south</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ILxN48-H1tauRGZVRoNV0g6r266ZftT8ap1Uqb9B4ogohhFBvWmibsa8f1WHR4dkoYFvqoYmrrHcBFEQXoxWYPrCD4joZkGzf9L5pCZ3HzMEMtt-R1x4Q-7_KKKgqWIOqwPTK7uMLG8z/s1600/P_20151028_134814_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ILxN48-H1tauRGZVRoNV0g6r266ZftT8ap1Uqb9B4ogohhFBvWmibsa8f1WHR4dkoYFvqoYmrrHcBFEQXoxWYPrCD4joZkGzf9L5pCZ3HzMEMtt-R1x4Q-7_KKKgqWIOqwPTK7uMLG8z/s320/P_20151028_134814_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There was some good boulder climbing to the top of Isla Perdita</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEQRtcLktwgRKzwPxVK41vP2oY9DNc32-r83IyqZQOzlmK62NMU8WOrOgIHnGU12ARggQ4EY_347DlMOPf8sW2T-GyL1c7vHYpyNcw0ahOYavEvLkMz_Uqxpv0LaGCbNe6FATNq9BAairO/s1600/P_20151028_164414_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEQRtcLktwgRKzwPxVK41vP2oY9DNc32-r83IyqZQOzlmK62NMU8WOrOgIHnGU12ARggQ4EY_347DlMOPf8sW2T-GyL1c7vHYpyNcw0ahOYavEvLkMz_Uqxpv0LaGCbNe6FATNq9BAairO/s320/P_20151028_164414_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking would be a misnomer here, there was no flat place to walk on the island except the beach</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-82079045968825407192015-09-27T14:10:00.004-07:002015-09-27T14:10:41.549-07:00Nomad Across The Atlantic, The Gambia to SurinameNomad set full sail as soon as she was clear of the docks at Banjul with an ebb tide helping here along. By sunset the tide had slacked off and the wind became light, out of the west. Not wanting to drift through the local fishing fleet barely making way, I started motoring west to get away from the coast and it's fishing boats. The forecast called for light west winds veering to the northwest by the time we crossed the longitude of the Cape Verde Islands. This was Nomad's first ever tradewind passage, and it was to be the easiest passage she has yet made. Once solidly into the tradewind zone, it was 21 days of 15 to 25 knots of wind on the starboard quarter with no sail handling other than dropping a few panels on the main as the wind picked up every afternoon and putting it back up late in the evening.<br />
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Kris was catching a number of smaller fish that were good to eat and several remora fish (not so tasty, we started throwing them back in the ocean) that would suction themselves to the deck when <br />
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brought aboard The best fish of the trip was a mahi mahi that measured 150 cm from nose to tail.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The biggest mahi mahi yet on Nomad</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best bait for mahi mahi</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Sailing north of the South American continent and closing the coast brought us into huge fields of sargassum seaweed that would foul the fishing lines and taffrail log. The seaweed would also accumulated in great bunches on the windvane's water paddle and cause the safety tube to break. This was becoming a big problem because I had broken the last spare belt for the autopilot and after breaking three safety tubes for the windvane there was only one of those left. Fortunately the schooner balances very well and we steered by hand for a few days with only occasion input from the person on the helm.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large mats of sargassum overloaded the windvane</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Heading into the Suriname river from the sea bouy, we encountered a large squall while working through the entrance channel. This was the first rain we had since leaving Morocco many months before. It was rainy season here when we arrived and the heavy rains became a daily part of life for us here for the next two months until the dry season began. Nomad was salt free in a very short time and the many months accumulation of red dust from West Africa on the sails and lines soon washed away.<br />
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Clearing into Suriname was a painless process after we got the boat settled in and a good nights rest. Formalities need to be done here within three or four days of arrival, a pleasant change from be met on the dock freshly in from the sea. Now it is time to enjoy watching hurricane season pass by to the north with no possibility of being hit by one and catch up on some much needed maintenance and boat projects.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored in Domburg Suriname watching the sunset over Paramaribo</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-46834054681355276532015-09-16T13:48:00.002-07:002015-09-18T06:19:09.899-07:00The GambiaIt was an uneventful overnight sail from Dakar, Senegal to Banjul, The Gambia.The best laid plans were again changed by the winds that grew light as Nomad approached the coast and it became another 0130 arrival at the anchorage. Entering the mouth of the Gambia river well after sunset Nomad was brought to an abrupt halt under full sail by an unseen fishing net. It caught on the bobstay shackle and could not be pushed off until all the sail was taken down. After clearing the net and waiting for the wind to blow us away from the net, we resumed sailing towards Half Die at the port of Banjul. With the radar not working again, it was a bit of a challenge working around the fishing gear and numerous wrecks in the harbor. The next afternoon formalities were completed and the diesel was topped off in anticipation of the long trip upriver. Three days was enough time to check out the town of Banjul and pick up some fresh produce at the Prince Albert market. When it was time to go, the anchor came up with old fishing gear and steel cables wrapped around it. Once that mess was cleared off, we sailed an unmarked channel to the more tranquil anchorage in Lamin Bolon. It was a surprise to make the last turn and see quite a number of sailboat masts sticking up above the mangroves. The area near Peter's Lamin Lodge was not only a quiet anchorage but is also a good place to leave the boat with easy access to the airport. The water here was warm enough for swimming and night swims with the phosphorescence became a favorite pastime.<br />
We were only here a few days, eager to begin the journey up the Gambia river. The tidal currents in the river are very strong so all travel is done only with a favorable current. The first day's anchorage was near Lamin Pt., so we could sail by James island the next day. This is a very small island with a fort on it across from the village of Juffere, made famous in Alex Haley's novel "Roots". A few miles beyond James island is Sami Bolon, where we made our next anchorage early enough for some swimming and walking about on shore<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorful Gambian clothes being made at the Prince Albert Market</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3L2HXrsaCrU0hJgwbWY0nUiWgfeO9g_F9gg4kfUbjlOAYtDO2L0nMDU82gfZ6GHacgGSeINLwHOXv1R908HAfGyNUZEIVMU1g_YLnnzV4npvUA_NVEtcXGSB3MlsvCwF2B7HzoaxdO7P/s1600/DSCN0688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3L2HXrsaCrU0hJgwbWY0nUiWgfeO9g_F9gg4kfUbjlOAYtDO2L0nMDU82gfZ6GHacgGSeINLwHOXv1R908HAfGyNUZEIVMU1g_YLnnzV4npvUA_NVEtcXGSB3MlsvCwF2B7HzoaxdO7P/s640/DSCN0688.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banjul</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjFGA48jI_I1rP_qCMBdEIL6OY9E5U-SSDIC66YQ0LzEUcG-bCaIYqGpybDxilvFRBTfOJQ3oRroS8a9Ql-oyNCbqoUYUTwaTEX3_XOoGxkMx0H-GavAgnjgM7wOlSDkZ8yFRfn_I4OkJ/s1600/DSCN0692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjFGA48jI_I1rP_qCMBdEIL6OY9E5U-SSDIC66YQ0LzEUcG-bCaIYqGpybDxilvFRBTfOJQ3oRroS8a9Ql-oyNCbqoUYUTwaTEX3_XOoGxkMx0H-GavAgnjgM7wOlSDkZ8yFRfn_I4OkJ/s640/DSCN0692.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Prince Albert Market</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring an old wreck in Banjul</td></tr>
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Mandori Creek is a special place, the type of anchorage that cruisers dream about: a deepwater creek navigable for miles inland with no weather concerns, interesting scenery, easy shore access and completely uninhabited except for the occasional fishermen. This is the kind of place one can swim ashore ,climb through the mud and walk around the savanna imagining that you are the first human to crawl out of the sea. The mangroves are covered with oysters below the high tide line, best eaten roasted over a fire onshore at sunset. As we moved further inland, it became noticeably warmer the further we went upriver. Thirty six at Mandori creek and over forty degrees by the time we reached Jan Jan Bureh. This was quite a contrast the the chill of the north Atlantic just offshore. Nomad would return here again for nearly a week on the downriver part of the trip.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mangroves on Mandori creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored on Mandori creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgAdOqzdarhjpQPhRLqqJ28baEkDl5o2n2C1k_77Q4SiYB8GkDmJ6-hX23_7CosPGqdKFrifgf8iq3rvIdg0-R9safbGcVD9IF78fEutq8fqjtvABX2x_VYi8tmp6Q2FMuMlLsA-bDnr6/s1600/DSCN0891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgAdOqzdarhjpQPhRLqqJ28baEkDl5o2n2C1k_77Q4SiYB8GkDmJ6-hX23_7CosPGqdKFrifgf8iq3rvIdg0-R9safbGcVD9IF78fEutq8fqjtvABX2x_VYi8tmp6Q2FMuMlLsA-bDnr6/s640/DSCN0891.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">James Island</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sami Bolon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ8crnw546cs4im_2MQZbhWr8KCHLQUIbSTpQTc9DXhkzBufendmuaMfOnppwxxdzG7iaZjw5RYBpGhW20jeBEs-doX0CkgyBacv8OlJfmpVelu1nwxzlLlKOHtr5C0pcwUeRKe55fNFxd/s1600/DSCN0931.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ8crnw546cs4im_2MQZbhWr8KCHLQUIbSTpQTc9DXhkzBufendmuaMfOnppwxxdzG7iaZjw5RYBpGhW20jeBEs-doX0CkgyBacv8OlJfmpVelu1nwxzlLlKOHtr5C0pcwUeRKe55fNFxd/s640/DSCN0931.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandori creek</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Sailing from Mandori creek withe the tide made for an easy days run to an anchorage on the main river at Madina creek. The next morning we picked up the anchor to move across the river closer to the ferry landing for a shorter dinghy ride ashore. The dinghy was beached among the fishing boats and the fishermen showed us where to tie the line so it would not be underwater when we came back. We took a taxi into Farafenni to the immigration office to renew our Gambian visa. While awaiting the person with the appropriate stamp to arrive we chatted with the immigration officer who invited us to visit his farm on the coast. The hospitality of the Gambian people is amazing everywhere we stopped. They call The Gambia "the smiling coast of Africa". Official business done, it was time to find a cold beer before walking back to the ferry landing. We found the cold refreshments with the help of DJ Scotel, a well known local dj at thelocal radio station. By chance we met him again on the downbound trip and he invited us to his home for lunch.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIheigS7WqmUhFuL2xYDaOC820Y5AQZQyavCbD-45Zu0Uh90Z6B0_YkjpoxSE2ik6Q4G0GYJlxdC7W9_GQiAPDnaS5AFUxybIMLF9oJeWR7637D0-wEhiiwXT95Fzow6mDZuCApUS5_T37/s1600/290415-1036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIheigS7WqmUhFuL2xYDaOC820Y5AQZQyavCbD-45Zu0Uh90Z6B0_YkjpoxSE2ik6Q4G0GYJlxdC7W9_GQiAPDnaS5AFUxybIMLF9oJeWR7637D0-wEhiiwXT95Fzow6mDZuCApUS5_T37/s640/290415-1036.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kris, DJ Scotel and Lyza</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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With our visas renewed for another twenty eight days, Nomad continued working upriver with the tides. Seahorse island looked interesting on the chart, so it became the next anchorage that we would explore. The island is covered with mangroves as tall as a four story building and so dense that you could not get into the island. Since exploring the island proved impossible, we decided to row up Dankunko creek where the occasional local boats were coming and going from. This was to lead to the most interesting experience we had in The Gambia. Some distance inland we came to a bridge with a boat tied up to it and a footpath leading away in both directions. We walked several kilometers through the countryside thinking we may find a village. Away from the impenetrable mangrove wall that lined the banks of the saltwater portion of the Gambia river, one can see the actual landscape: ridges, hills, red rocks and dust and the iconic baobob trees. We stopped to check out a particularly large baobob tree and decided to push on a little further before turning back.Soon we came upon a small village far from any road. Not knowing what to expect, we walked towards the village and saw a large group of people resting in the shade of a large mango tree. We greeted them and were promptly invited to join them for attaya, the sweet green tea that is enjoyed everywhere in west Africa. The attaya is brewed three times in a ritual that is part tea drinking and part time to enjoy conversation while it is being brewed. We talked with them for some time and were invited to the Ceesay family compound for dinner, where we were introduced to their father. As the sun went down, we were invited to stay the night at their compound. I expressed concern about the boat being anchored with no light on it and the dinghy tied to a bridge many kilometers away. Everyone assured me that it would be safe there, so we accepted their invitation. We were treated with the typical Gambian hospitality and fed to the point of bursting. Benachin was served in the traditional way by the women who then retired to their own area with the children to eat. As a guest , Lyza sat with Kris and I with the men on mats and we ate with our hands in the traditional style out of a huge bowl of food, and finished up with more baobob juice, sorel and one more round of attaya. There is no electicity service here, so everyone uses flashlights and the light from their cell phones to light the way and to avoid scorpions walking about town at night. We were invited to the local mosque which was having a special holiday where the Koran is read all night and was attended by people from all the nearby villages. The next day we were taken for a walk around town and fed again.I was shown a place by a small creek of the main river where we could anchor much closer to the village if we would stop by again. Not having any visible landmarks and only a general idea of where I was, I memorized what it looked like and the boat that was there and did manage to locate it on our return visit. Asking about the new room being built in their compound, I was told that they always keep a room ready in case anyone who stopped by needed a place to stay the night. The girls in the compound made us bead bracelets before we departed, us promising that we would return to Sambang Nyugh Kunda on our way down river.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCUydopcbTYp59IyWFXcvFt88srwFOYpMkCzVOxs3jRz_EoXRyXtW3KzDzmPWOgzxDz2gotFWPUcA39Z_TR2YIk4r8M6Q30_BP9vrLVU2GNVB2wDeDCOVZNloY7J_rD9vX6mebg6tj6bRQ/s1600/130415-1027%2528001%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCUydopcbTYp59IyWFXcvFt88srwFOYpMkCzVOxs3jRz_EoXRyXtW3KzDzmPWOgzxDz2gotFWPUcA39Z_TR2YIk4r8M6Q30_BP9vrLVU2GNVB2wDeDCOVZNloY7J_rD9vX6mebg6tj6bRQ/s640/130415-1027%2528001%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking inland</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baobob tree</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCIfkJ8Pv-zP1kH_1aYRGXBd623BYzv4vn-eVKD7DzYEcPK7T2dxCGqoTOO7l4zfHo9NXHMWY9RKhnPXUuXSNVnkhEDuK733x51Eqi7I5RKR9bwQLOPBsEaibtfU8UCDjulkmr-y8klp7n/s1600/110415-1344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCIfkJ8Pv-zP1kH_1aYRGXBd623BYzv4vn-eVKD7DzYEcPK7T2dxCGqoTOO7l4zfHo9NXHMWY9RKhnPXUuXSNVnkhEDuK733x51Eqi7I5RKR9bwQLOPBsEaibtfU8UCDjulkmr-y8klp7n/s640/110415-1344.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sambang Nyugh Kunda</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lyza dancing with the children in Sambang</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicaM8yRny4DPiUrh9ZSn6RYbrYc0FeeORc_OsNXtNjZRLmQMwoeLSYF1vv87G6KoaK3B-Gggh5F_BsZe00PWT7raA8oY2mctjOyOdFWonTIUmPTeIdfNZUJDVP2XPl5B9iw4qy88iwBQ17/s1600/270415-1311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicaM8yRny4DPiUrh9ZSn6RYbrYc0FeeORc_OsNXtNjZRLmQMwoeLSYF1vv87G6KoaK3B-Gggh5F_BsZe00PWT7raA8oY2mctjOyOdFWonTIUmPTeIdfNZUJDVP2XPl5B9iw4qy88iwBQ17/s640/270415-1311.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lyza with the women's group in Sambang</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Leaving Sea Horse island, continued working our way upriver with stops at Balingar Hill where we found the reported abandoned village on to of the hill being rebuilt, Kau Ur, Bantanta creek and Kudang. Coming into Kudang, we passed a line to a fisherman and towed him to the village, saving him a few kilometer of paddling upstream. The next day we were shown around Kudang and visited their school. We walked the path inland to Kudang Tenda on the main road in search of fresh vegetable and were surprised to hear someone call us by name. It was a Peace corp worker that we had met at Lamin Lodge. Seeking some quiet nature time, the anchor was brought in and we sailed upriver to Bird Island, where we saw our first hippos resting in the shallows at the ends of the island.They could be heard swimming nearby at night, unseen.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAQsDP1GOTIWF9VfAjcjyicjSZIM0Tsv1yjrH6T84R_cEn6rt375RxWQaZ-jioLi6SVYPDHSI50uBod55UtytZG7Vo1OWQkwAHbDymXKx7lr8KKv-Gd4E-PJRRYqawexXRdMgU01wtVCI/s1600/170415-1102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAQsDP1GOTIWF9VfAjcjyicjSZIM0Tsv1yjrH6T84R_cEn6rt375RxWQaZ-jioLi6SVYPDHSI50uBod55UtytZG7Vo1OWQkwAHbDymXKx7lr8KKv-Gd4E-PJRRYqawexXRdMgU01wtVCI/s640/170415-1102.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gambia river from one of the few hills along the riverbank</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtAPkdSc1pEQwkJyYh8UFFSZqMgbDpl2EVecAAqduwGsVZyll4KV9C_rJpLTrsw310D6wHdHfYpH6KfRgz3I0G_2_58VlpI3-zH_z_-5SzsUjyvHq3eONx7G3ruesq7wTwpGeGh0X6-M9/s1600/130415-1005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtAPkdSc1pEQwkJyYh8UFFSZqMgbDpl2EVecAAqduwGsVZyll4KV9C_rJpLTrsw310D6wHdHfYpH6KfRgz3I0G_2_58VlpI3-zH_z_-5SzsUjyvHq3eONx7G3ruesq7wTwpGeGh0X6-M9/s640/130415-1005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balingar hill</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQj5sVG1EVu-rjMeaB8QAdkQmpoidrichDd3NmpxdXCkgyeDHRqID-cNRRE0dT7iOp4A01Phi658WOK7n1MBF2xDvkadXvH7Db6w8fk_9WTVvB0F1koI2iLBzLs0zMzanEoqNMgYgMNzog/s1600/140415-1154%2528001%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQj5sVG1EVu-rjMeaB8QAdkQmpoidrichDd3NmpxdXCkgyeDHRqID-cNRRE0dT7iOp4A01Phi658WOK7n1MBF2xDvkadXvH7Db6w8fk_9WTVvB0F1koI2iLBzLs0zMzanEoqNMgYgMNzog/s640/140415-1154%2528001%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were invited to eat everywhere we stopped</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1f6bjSsr96UQ6NMto47AO6SOSQAzjJ9bA3HQsdvT__OEl06YC8tPlzK5lwoezVbc2kNP9egwLKKWqd3AZn8kWIIJE6i-zRufcxBQVgdIVK7tNiU4pueEJHcnuDA_weX61irYQ2ja0RNv5/s1600/160415-1257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1f6bjSsr96UQ6NMto47AO6SOSQAzjJ9bA3HQsdvT__OEl06YC8tPlzK5lwoezVbc2kNP9egwLKKWqd3AZn8kWIIJE6i-zRufcxBQVgdIVK7tNiU4pueEJHcnuDA_weX61irYQ2ja0RNv5/s640/160415-1257.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kudang, all the children want to hold hands with the tubop (white person)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLNQ0AIWF1fEM5UYktE0qWOu2JdcbBRUL0twCcnrJyxsk8g_Zo3N9TZgM2T0ndD2DalGmpZeRXnOc5qmNPC2kP-lwZxadOjs4y5jZ2aAtxbZCIknlKuA-sQbuLlW0uCBum40M6SWScoEV9/s1600/160415-1259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLNQ0AIWF1fEM5UYktE0qWOu2JdcbBRUL0twCcnrJyxsk8g_Zo3N9TZgM2T0ndD2DalGmpZeRXnOc5qmNPC2kP-lwZxadOjs4y5jZ2aAtxbZCIknlKuA-sQbuLlW0uCBum40M6SWScoEV9/s640/160415-1259.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Escorted back to the dinghy by nearly all the children in town</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHz1K15-PAlMEE6PqUoaIuL7aIzu7pPPuEBxqkA9wXY0WmTa5ax0Bd1fk8LQ9AUbMJQs32YJkWHhyphenhypheny5BKpmSi_6hFqgM1wezJJys0PPHC-rnmW1UQe5L0mF0XGHHynRj4Is9PdG9Xo1Aa0/s1600/190415-0607%2528001%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHz1K15-PAlMEE6PqUoaIuL7aIzu7pPPuEBxqkA9wXY0WmTa5ax0Bd1fk8LQ9AUbMJQs32YJkWHhyphenhypheny5BKpmSi_6hFqgM1wezJJys0PPHC-rnmW1UQe5L0mF0XGHHynRj4Is9PdG9Xo1Aa0/s640/190415-0607%2528001%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the rare days the wind was not against us on the river</td></tr>
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Nomad was anchored near the ground nut warehouse and dock in Kuntaur, the last village before going through the Baboon Islands which are a national park with special <br />
sailing rules to protect the wildlife. In Kuntaur we made friends with people who worked at the local hospital. The nurse who worked there lived on the hospital <br />
grounds and showed us around the facility explaining that the doctor only came by a few times a month to perform operations.The people here accomplish amazing things <br />
with very little staff and minimal supplies. A short walk brought us to the next village, Wassu, where we visited the pre-historic stone circles there which were <br />
explained to us by the Stoneman, caretaker of the stones for many years and a good storyteller.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBPbUvDzl3NkG3HhQ2l7bpGrZgT0IBJ-fP2r8ybhso8XS8SrO6OTClTY6h9U3j4IgJIUcHtfhIiISNu88AcQRjbChoiSivY-kZD24Api-yZaIUkbNa37I5psfhqiY4nhsKLfrwUv7sEE5/s1600/180415-1018%2528001%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBPbUvDzl3NkG3HhQ2l7bpGrZgT0IBJ-fP2r8ybhso8XS8SrO6OTClTY6h9U3j4IgJIUcHtfhIiISNu88AcQRjbChoiSivY-kZD24Api-yZaIUkbNa37I5psfhqiY4nhsKLfrwUv7sEE5/s640/180415-1018%2528001%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Stoneman telling the story of the stone circles of Wassu</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxz8mR73jaPLT2XnkYjNm9azYQmlboLaBcHlN7ljnogTzCM1tfpQhNUXCsReRPDuwuZk0lS4l5VinMF8IGJpkno7rqzQ7u0RtLnAgIEEeCLSzbtcnBkPDGWhMkYL8q2uwilONfSQsSV5U/s1600/180415-1215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxz8mR73jaPLT2XnkYjNm9azYQmlboLaBcHlN7ljnogTzCM1tfpQhNUXCsReRPDuwuZk0lS4l5VinMF8IGJpkno7rqzQ7u0RtLnAgIEEeCLSzbtcnBkPDGWhMkYL8q2uwilONfSQsSV5U/s640/180415-1215.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are always a big attraction with the children in every town.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8SDIZM6ga7vFcO41IruV0jq4dITs29vOxOzDA6uZyx-2jEEXmu64e0dJYgRKT03l5cxt6csd2XbwikiivSql7S4vaQcpr0amxVOG7gpcXcN984w-FpANZd4_Iv0yGnO8SDetY-_zAkjrQ/s1600/180415-1233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8SDIZM6ga7vFcO41IruV0jq4dITs29vOxOzDA6uZyx-2jEEXmu64e0dJYgRKT03l5cxt6csd2XbwikiivSql7S4vaQcpr0amxVOG7gpcXcN984w-FpANZd4_Iv0yGnO8SDetY-_zAkjrQ/s640/180415-1233.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad anchored in Kuntaur</td></tr>
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Carefully following the prescribed route, we went through the Baboon islands the next day enjoying the scenery but were disappointed that we did not see any baboons there, although we did see some further upriver outside the park. Now in fresh water the waterside environment changed, most notably the mangroves were gone allowing us a view inland from the river. The river became narrower and the daytime temperatures were over 40C. We anchored downstream of the ferry landing in Jan Jan Bureh after checking out the overhead power line that sagged to near masthead height in mid river. I checked the depth at low tide on the north bank and it appears that by staying with two meters of the shore there should be safe clearance for my 14 meter mast height.This power line provides electricity to Jan Jan Bureh and several other towns. There is not enough capacity, so each town only gets electricity for a few hours each day. Trying to find an ice cold beer could be challenging at times here. We stayed here several days, making friends with one of the water taxi drivers.We were invited to dinner at his compound where we asked them to show us how to make domoda, a tasty ground nut soup served over rice, and baobob juice. I also got hands on instruction on pouring attaya, which takes some practice to do without spilling it.<br />
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From Jan Jan Bureh, we decided to head back downriver instead of pushing further inland. Downbound we stopped and visited the many friends that we made on the journey upriver. Riding the tide downbound, the ebb current lasts a few hours less than the flood making for short travelling days. We eventually found our way back to our favorite anchorage in Mandori creek, where we spent nearly a week before anchoring again in Lamin Bolon. Lamin is a great place to stay for awhile. It is a short walk from the lodge to the village on the main road, where the markets have most things needed.The local cashew wine here is especially good and not very expensive. From Lamin, it is a bus ride to the markets and supermarkets in Westfield and Seerekunda which are much nicer than those in Banjul. Most anything can be found there. In Kanifing, cooking gas(butane) is available and it is no problem to carry your gas bottles in the bus. We renewed our visas in Banjul one more time and stayed nearly a month in Lamin Bolon before deciding it was time to head across the Atlantic while the summer weather was still quiet. On the first day of June, we pulled the anchor up from Lamin Bolon and anchored at Banjul to refuel and clear out. The formalities were completed easily as we now knew where to go. Good clean fuel is available at the end of the fishing dock. We had become friends with the senior bunkering officer from Total fuels, who patiently filled our fuel jugs with his fishing boat sized fuel pump and nozzle with almost no spillage. With all the pre-departure chores done we returned to the boat to make final preparations for the upcoming voyage and get a good nights rest before leaving on the morning's ebb tide for Suriname. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwnQ5V_f-uG6DgMH8Mi65YooI1UZ8DJkgh8R_Eg4GLogsupg2-ghxMfJ8MFb-ovQAbyhJ6Eld3zBeT4MbQfGoL354lWI4hn2u-SPjTeWh27sziBSZSpq1HJPvKFrP5cG2H3PtYDj_wFt-/s1600/DSCN0798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwnQ5V_f-uG6DgMH8Mi65YooI1UZ8DJkgh8R_Eg4GLogsupg2-ghxMfJ8MFb-ovQAbyhJ6Eld3zBeT4MbQfGoL354lWI4hn2u-SPjTeWh27sziBSZSpq1HJPvKFrP5cG2H3PtYDj_wFt-/s640/DSCN0798.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's a lot of boats in Lamin Bolon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONedP5dmfHEGY8K37-vO3UPJ-6B8h556HnpCmPaAgd1NDunKgo-l3TRPSNgC8pJCSZFB-HAgTcy5HY0Q1RCIk-M-SCIro9es0kFcDS4Wezz6W3GLYhjPTUFCR7Ezk50RwCspyz-OhSP6o/s1600/DSCN0805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONedP5dmfHEGY8K37-vO3UPJ-6B8h556HnpCmPaAgd1NDunKgo-l3TRPSNgC8pJCSZFB-HAgTcy5HY0Q1RCIk-M-SCIro9es0kFcDS4Wezz6W3GLYhjPTUFCR7Ezk50RwCspyz-OhSP6o/s640/DSCN0805.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lamin Lodge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabk_oiUJb3HXPY_Lxb9Xd7VovVvaR4qIgV94viBU_6P-Zrj1B96dysZgoIRqEt_knkPxv7b2XNHLThnZYXR43sykWrlGG4tukSJkO7OKztV5n1vIf0b8044A5gWdv1Ce4yY6LuBBT5dFX/s1600/DSCN0808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabk_oiUJb3HXPY_Lxb9Xd7VovVvaR4qIgV94viBU_6P-Zrj1B96dysZgoIRqEt_knkPxv7b2XNHLThnZYXR43sykWrlGG4tukSJkO7OKztV5n1vIf0b8044A5gWdv1Ce4yY6LuBBT5dFX/s640/DSCN0808.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Markets on the highway in Lamin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BwPAOxFaHYuZnR8Xf3q0jMElmvLHVM4WTYPcOqk1pFWiQK9VovQSKVeCBn-14IzZmH-KaJ4RqgvOf0mEjYXRcLQEOMc5GogHDSt-eUJicF85MTIH96GFmFah8ycJ_7kbgRUcdADh_0Nd/s1600/DSCN0831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BwPAOxFaHYuZnR8Xf3q0jMElmvLHVM4WTYPcOqk1pFWiQK9VovQSKVeCBn-14IzZmH-KaJ4RqgvOf0mEjYXRcLQEOMc5GogHDSt-eUJicF85MTIH96GFmFah8ycJ_7kbgRUcdADh_0Nd/s640/DSCN0831.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The savanna near Lamin</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuIEPWY8mfzwueXYqpIEy8o4Ks9cwjEHQaxPgtIjrx0S1Ly6Uz9E0KUtJfJmdHGXHN_FBXp0IMhTmw9olhhvhcZ4S0r_118pNQfvYq5gsCf-JtyGGsyGAeutrnTnkj7eK1NYRz9GN7a_qV/s1600/DSCN0851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuIEPWY8mfzwueXYqpIEy8o4Ks9cwjEHQaxPgtIjrx0S1Ly6Uz9E0KUtJfJmdHGXHN_FBXp0IMhTmw9olhhvhcZ4S0r_118pNQfvYq5gsCf-JtyGGsyGAeutrnTnkj7eK1NYRz9GN7a_qV/s640/DSCN0851.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkeys hanging around Lamin Lodge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4Hgr2_lJXDf60zVDUWXUOQ4nu1oZdMgq9vTvtaJf-fS0X0XLht_5mv-IEH6fdOz-BTMq-x5fVoP-5955L0u9TYnfL6WDK54nyRakwOAoEcdzYjU4EcHe_14sAIvn8Dc0DAwSF45KOpBe/s1600/DSCN0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4Hgr2_lJXDf60zVDUWXUOQ4nu1oZdMgq9vTvtaJf-fS0X0XLht_5mv-IEH6fdOz-BTMq-x5fVoP-5955L0u9TYnfL6WDK54nyRakwOAoEcdzYjU4EcHe_14sAIvn8Dc0DAwSF45KOpBe/s640/DSCN0872.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seerekunda</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7Xynzv5Xl1TZ5KObU-R8hJ0w3eWjybn6HQiy1-qbODt7xgxHGpuFNi2-vQd72JRnb4eJafD_ClqacSxzinTDKgrTqKdEVGnMuSJOV2PQ_8iMSTxmsMpy_X-mV52m6-VELC5N0NcGZk__/s1600/DSCN0874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7Xynzv5Xl1TZ5KObU-R8hJ0w3eWjybn6HQiy1-qbODt7xgxHGpuFNi2-vQd72JRnb4eJafD_ClqacSxzinTDKgrTqKdEVGnMuSJOV2PQ_8iMSTxmsMpy_X-mV52m6-VELC5N0NcGZk__/s640/DSCN0874.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex and the ground nut shop in Lamin</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-76382693929133434562015-09-07T13:27:00.004-07:002015-09-07T13:28:32.873-07:00Dakar SenegalThe sun was setting as the last port of call in Morocco disappeared behind us in the dust laden wind. Nomad carefully picked her way through the fishing fleet of trawlers and large canoes found off nearly every African port, many of them with out regular navigation lights. The initial course was set to get us offshore into deep water away from the fishing boats before changing course for Cap Vert. On the first night out, there were some squalls with lightning and shifting winds which caused an unplanned jibe that tore the mainsail and bent the boom gallows. This was to be the last rain Nomad would be in until reaching South America several months later as we sailed into the dry season south of the Sahara desert. With the excitement of the first night finished, the rest of the eight day sail into Dakar was uneventful. Cap Vert was passed at a respectful distance and we sailed by Gore Island and past the busy commercial port in Dakar to anchor near the CVD (Cercle de la Voile Dakar) in Plage de Hann. A boat from the navy stopped by to inspect us as we were getting ready to go ashore. When they departed we went ashore and located the club manager who gave us detailed instructions about where to clear in and set us up with a taxi driver to take us to each of the offices we needed to visit. Despite getting a late start, with the taxi drivers knowledge of where to go we managed get the multitude of forms filled out and stamped and visas put in our passports before closing time. The usual assortment of repairs required after a voyage were completed and some time was spent exploring the local area. A trip was made to the Pasteur Institute in Dakar to get yellow fever vaccine. This cost about $12 USD, considerably less than the $110 to $200 I had been quoted in USA and Canada! This was the only trip we made into Dakar other than for clearing in and out as the local markets in Plage de Hann had everything we needed without the crowds and traffic of the big city.This was our introduction to sub-Saharan Africa which was very different from Morocco. The anchorage here was reasonably quiet, but the brisk wind that came up every afternoon made rowing to and from the boat a wet workout. CVD chaged us a daily rate for the boat and per person for the use of their facilities which included internet and use of their water taxi, if you could catch it. The location was good with produce vendors just outside the gate and the big market area with fresh caught fish and a fuel pump on the beach just a short walk away. After nine days here we were ready for the overnite sail to The Gambia. We had made two trips into Dakar already so to save a few dollars we decided to walk into the city to visit the officials to clear out. The Port of Dakar is a big place and we ended up at the wrong end of it. Seeing that we were unsure of where to go , two policemen who were directing traffic motioned for us to get in their car and gave us a ride through the port to the police office that we needed to find for outward clearance. Once there, we found our way to the other offices with no problems and walked back to CVD for a late afternoon departure. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTNQdWjMxuHsy4nDgRs52Va65hIjMm5JrQlNQAO8xNhdWNLuXHzwCZUtiRWgW3Lrls9S7DsOpGrRU5xXhwrKWMAOMkIWWXeI3n2NyRaiab7s5Ko8ClkwrVvu-gui2Ybl5AMU7lXZsP6P-/s1600/DSCN0512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTNQdWjMxuHsy4nDgRs52Va65hIjMm5JrQlNQAO8xNhdWNLuXHzwCZUtiRWgW3Lrls9S7DsOpGrRU5xXhwrKWMAOMkIWWXeI3n2NyRaiab7s5Ko8ClkwrVvu-gui2Ybl5AMU7lXZsP6P-/s640/DSCN0512.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise near Cap Vert</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh produce for sale everywhere</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCWMbeKu7UzP6CU09J69_un1gk1eU_GvZOQc2ZRNXCRCo_Jgo-jIX9C2isW-qupfxbGQ9Xo6yi-wDuf6zedvPPnypoQ2niYVupTK0Fl4twsNh3aDErXeM7YpPJO8ZcNGS4JOmfMdX8D_sK/s1600/DSCN0546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCWMbeKu7UzP6CU09J69_un1gk1eU_GvZOQc2ZRNXCRCo_Jgo-jIX9C2isW-qupfxbGQ9Xo6yi-wDuf6zedvPPnypoQ2niYVupTK0Fl4twsNh3aDErXeM7YpPJO8ZcNGS4JOmfMdX8D_sK/s640/DSCN0546.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish market, Plage de Hann</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bdu6JQTL3crNATOWD3HO0f3xdMOPzu1vuiX8AGVDgO5y2Jdi2aRsGt1pNWE8M-hr7juuchvTGBFCI98loxevtulndtp2XzfvAo7DCFhsgXGF6_p1eWBbJ2qWU8quiUD977icStvwlwv6/s1600/DSCN0549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bdu6JQTL3crNATOWD3HO0f3xdMOPzu1vuiX8AGVDgO5y2Jdi2aRsGt1pNWE8M-hr7juuchvTGBFCI98loxevtulndtp2XzfvAo7DCFhsgXGF6_p1eWBbJ2qWU8quiUD977icStvwlwv6/s640/DSCN0549.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another load of fresh fish</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qmIb4nENrTnmGr9_igeEvBt2AgiSl-E2ZuKdRmqgdXd1St4t1NV9KjOyHtI6vArIfcwwRUtJGSBNYw6BX3QNMQjSnRxAKSSfikO4t9ijgydosZ2AqDU4g3sr8Mb2DUjin_gUV5LwjF64/s1600/DSCN0587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qmIb4nENrTnmGr9_igeEvBt2AgiSl-E2ZuKdRmqgdXd1St4t1NV9KjOyHtI6vArIfcwwRUtJGSBNYw6BX3QNMQjSnRxAKSSfikO4t9ijgydosZ2AqDU4g3sr8Mb2DUjin_gUV5LwjF64/s640/DSCN0587.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local bus; if they are full,you can ride standing on the back bumper</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiol_5Ac3d1OyYHfy5Enu0tP27WlCMDIGW_cXu7aSLvbUDqC83l7m47KZuOFaZEawUEPAjgYMke1n_gBENDxJ5QZS-TpacPnYujXYsHAeUqoochO2J12UCAnhEeDidROgJRu-0b-HFsCJGJ/s1600/DSCN0593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiol_5Ac3d1OyYHfy5Enu0tP27WlCMDIGW_cXu7aSLvbUDqC83l7m47KZuOFaZEawUEPAjgYMke1n_gBENDxJ5QZS-TpacPnYujXYsHAeUqoochO2J12UCAnhEeDidROgJRu-0b-HFsCJGJ/s640/DSCN0593.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dakar railway station, now an art gallery. the chairs are made from beer bottle lids</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3tIsPklaAXN6l5tt84aUaAxte8jsY6KQZsh9aJbVn04Y7NpeKYzh9b7XQLX_ot0c1x0glbCYey4x7oRk-T1fJK9KeS7c4eNJlUm2H7psDZS2JtYxUCa-kjHIEy2cbK-nfIOyIDGrsWki/s1600/DSCN0598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3tIsPklaAXN6l5tt84aUaAxte8jsY6KQZsh9aJbVn04Y7NpeKYzh9b7XQLX_ot0c1x0glbCYey4x7oRk-T1fJK9KeS7c4eNJlUm2H7psDZS2JtYxUCa-kjHIEy2cbK-nfIOyIDGrsWki/s640/DSCN0598.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locally made sculpture for sale</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRnEdMw2-5U4bZLV-JTrphB92nOQynx9MSa1IOBlZcCXG8LESOQuEwNcoGLcmitQ9K9e4LEad5_pQSDFaIOzQVdyxNgt2EMN0gpaoSvUT3pmG17MmqpWIzbs024_jWEkbw-OLBiOH2CvhZ/s1600/DSCN0601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRnEdMw2-5U4bZLV-JTrphB92nOQynx9MSa1IOBlZcCXG8LESOQuEwNcoGLcmitQ9K9e4LEad5_pQSDFaIOzQVdyxNgt2EMN0gpaoSvUT3pmG17MmqpWIzbs024_jWEkbw-OLBiOH2CvhZ/s640/DSCN0601.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the old railway station</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXclUu0NsxjVUvyNRfNy7dRjnOnV24W8UbuOT8ZMP9X4eE4k41eoQX2cIk3VX3UZECrEfM9gzOvzsVsBDpnGqwv0DQ3n3j15ZTy-2ZCvbK4TNZSEmocpGa7MyFF0w6Rn7rhjzOfRQ2-uH/s1600/DSCN0612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXclUu0NsxjVUvyNRfNy7dRjnOnV24W8UbuOT8ZMP9X4eE4k41eoQX2cIk3VX3UZECrEfM9gzOvzsVsBDpnGqwv0DQ3n3j15ZTy-2ZCvbK4TNZSEmocpGa7MyFF0w6Rn7rhjzOfRQ2-uH/s640/DSCN0612.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The anchorage at Plage de Hann</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbMwa2tQKJTHbS7kG3NhC8xi9LCo6FSuumcWGLLc7TlHIlDfQgSH8rTG6RfD70RDqFuGxDePlDFld5HI3E6JtXcV83UATjFFD0UJ-NDqioO9_EBXDoaSRRNeTCEHrKb9RqbmtRi9Kr1Y1/s1600/DSCN0615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbMwa2tQKJTHbS7kG3NhC8xi9LCo6FSuumcWGLLc7TlHIlDfQgSH8rTG6RfD70RDqFuGxDePlDFld5HI3E6JtXcV83UATjFFD0UJ-NDqioO9_EBXDoaSRRNeTCEHrKb9RqbmtRi9Kr1Y1/s640/DSCN0615.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilling out at the CVD yacht club</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y5ioGoYX_WDZwSJk4-7ptUMLUywzFwPhJsu_VL0NEPbe7klloelcoUM3lZQ7OSdFxEB2qD1clwFJCm2i1QfIP2__-Q70H1vG91StmnAdNQQ2cR6VPYEB5lg1UwKEk2chr7YieN12sul_/s1600/DSCN0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y5ioGoYX_WDZwSJk4-7ptUMLUywzFwPhJsu_VL0NEPbe7klloelcoUM3lZQ7OSdFxEB2qD1clwFJCm2i1QfIP2__-Q70H1vG91StmnAdNQQ2cR6VPYEB5lg1UwKEk2chr7YieN12sul_/s640/DSCN0617.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boatyard at Plage de Hann</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZQg9Vug5U7vtnktj12sj1p72R8CZ3NHRXHIViycDOd-OfFAOEeuYO6ASE9eUYe4MC1lvgsVVXm8vZjX7l4f6sN_VBZq1br_AqpwbpfSahrLQug0eS7QIyRTwcYWfCE_0YQLICQpxPtAuW/s1600/DSCN0621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZQg9Vug5U7vtnktj12sj1p72R8CZ3NHRXHIViycDOd-OfFAOEeuYO6ASE9eUYe4MC1lvgsVVXm8vZjX7l4f6sN_VBZq1br_AqpwbpfSahrLQug0eS7QIyRTwcYWfCE_0YQLICQpxPtAuW/s640/DSCN0621.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinghy landing at the yacht club</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0QxHc0HspgqKJkMJScgqt4t74yQRipX4tivgqgIrU2FyCemeXCPOYlgnNB1Qte7E81xc56C_XGJSzWZ0VHy_QKkOX9JCdKc0XxLSFrxcnKgOZKI7Ehs1uG5XJHDjVPNt3cBVzgYgJRUx/s1600/DSCN0565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0QxHc0HspgqKJkMJScgqt4t74yQRipX4tivgqgIrU2FyCemeXCPOYlgnNB1Qte7E81xc56C_XGJSzWZ0VHy_QKkOX9JCdKc0XxLSFrxcnKgOZKI7Ehs1uG5XJHDjVPNt3cBVzgYgJRUx/s640/DSCN0565.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More market area near the beach</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-66698822097783758052015-09-05T13:47:00.000-07:002015-09-05T13:47:15.214-07:00Dakhla MoroccoNomad arrived in Dakhla Morocco after an uneventful four day sail from Los Cristianos Tenerife at night, as usual. The sun had set while sailing south around the extensive shoals off the peninsula that Dakhla was located on. Motoring about the bay in a twenty knot breeze looking for a place to anchor or land at night can be challenging as there is no details of the inner harbors on the charts. After checking out the whole length of the wharf and seeing no protection from the one meter waves rolling down its face I was turning around to seek an anchorage and saw a car flashing it's headlights. Manuevering carefully between two ships and their mooring cables to get withing shouting distance of the dock, we were told to follow them around the wharf and they would show us the way into the small craft harbor. Cautiously hugging the wharf and steering directly towards the shallow areas, we were directed into a basin that was much larger and deeper than indicated on the chart and tied to a tugboat where we were met by all the officials. Having been to a number of Moroccan ports before, I knew what to expect and had everything ready. Formalities were completed and the passports stamped by 2200. The wharf in Dakhla is some distance out in the bay connected to the shore by a long causeway making every trip into town a long hike although we got the occasional ride. As the sun rose we were greeted by another fishing harbor with a dusty,windswept desert landscape very different from the other Moroccan ports we had visited. Over the next six days we visited the town taking in the sights and sounds of a desert town in the western Sahara that gets few visitors. Nomad's galley was well stocked with the culinary delights of Moroccan cuisine that we knew would not be available again as we made our way down the African coast.The port charges were the same here as in other ports, it is a standard rate, "lets see what they charged in the last harbor...", paid in Dirhams. We had to shift the boat three times to allow the tug to get out, but this allowed us easy access to the wharf without having to adjust out docklines for the two meter tides. Nomad made a late afternoon departure with the tide and had cleared the Dakhla sea bouy as the sun was setting, sailing for Dakar Senegal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgu3cQo8TdPxS25pYONUbSL2serVXlcq6KXGLIMBN8s-8IsDULuZ_2a77IhRk8U7FjsxbW7TtqXQbQ26d1WkwbfN0zneYTB4arec9-xG13uF8FK3xF9L0K4Ak6ooYP0osGWk3tc5iPjD8D/s1600/DSCN0397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgu3cQo8TdPxS25pYONUbSL2serVXlcq6KXGLIMBN8s-8IsDULuZ_2a77IhRk8U7FjsxbW7TtqXQbQ26d1WkwbfN0zneYTB4arec9-xG13uF8FK3xF9L0K4Ak6ooYP0osGWk3tc5iPjD8D/s640/DSCN0397.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding into town</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOc4Stm6u94NH_QW792t7JSh-eUFBh0Zxug4w-jCpGuHUJshZ7qFNtvQqLk35azSuP9sXXICEaLJ8JkNBY0Nccpu2R0mI-PM4NldKafyMmPk7okClsh6hS5U4uO480vMT2-rm5NeJMPSiJ/s1600/DSCN0410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOc4Stm6u94NH_QW792t7JSh-eUFBh0Zxug4w-jCpGuHUJshZ7qFNtvQqLk35azSuP9sXXICEaLJ8JkNBY0Nccpu2R0mI-PM4NldKafyMmPk7okClsh6hS5U4uO480vMT2-rm5NeJMPSiJ/s640/DSCN0410.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many Mosques</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Veggie market</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3pkEgz5ROmBHLCshDdWHAZop5nWCZ56tHxNGgK1ODJXqL_PLovWtWzbFDT_-T-4ML5sfMyFIkwNquUwK1WZtMSvaR57yDXoCym-zmtObUMWXZfEDuveWFVfdQ8RhWSjUidvjsqczhUSuN/s1600/DSCN0439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3pkEgz5ROmBHLCshDdWHAZop5nWCZ56tHxNGgK1ODJXqL_PLovWtWzbFDT_-T-4ML5sfMyFIkwNquUwK1WZtMSvaR57yDXoCym-zmtObUMWXZfEDuveWFVfdQ8RhWSjUidvjsqczhUSuN/s640/DSCN0439.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking into town under clear, dusty skies</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dakhla truck stop</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad on the wall awaiting the tugboat's return </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young fishermen</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street market</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retired fishing boat</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad's berth in Dakhla</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-29971618005140161902015-09-02T15:09:00.000-07:002015-09-02T15:09:24.328-07:00Two months in the Canary IslandsEnroute from Morocco to the Canaries, Christmas morning Kris woke me up saying we had a fish on the line. It turned out to be a good sized mahi mahi when we got it onboard, which we enjoyed fried, baked, and more, eating nothing but fresh fish all day. Nomad made her usual night time arrival and anchored behind the container port of Marmoles to clear in to Lanzarote the next day. After finding the office to clear in we were told anchoring was now prohibited here. The next port in the guidebook was filled with a marina and also no anchoring so we went around to the old harbor in Arrecife and unexpectedly met three other boats that I had met previously. The harbor here was nice and conveniant to town, but it was open to the south, so the weather had to be monitored carefully. During month that Nomad was anchored here the conditions never got rough enough that we had to move, but there were times it was not possible to land the dinghy because the surge would have battered the dinghy against the stone walls surrounding the harbor. After a long search we found the place to get a prescription for anti malaria pills was near where we landed the dinghy. Got everybody there together the next morning only to find that I had only missed the person who write those prescriptions by a few hours the day before...but he would be back next month. We were assured that we could get this done in Las Palmas at any time, so decided to sail there despite it being a "pay to anchor" type harbor. Lyza's sister Mara joined us in Arrecife and stayed on for the trip to Las Palmas,Gran Canaria and got her first taste of sailing on the ocean and a little bouncy weather. Anchoring in Las Palmas I again found a couple of boats that I had met before. Las Palmas is the main sailing hub in the Canaries with all possible marine supplies available here...but not anti malaria pills. This never ending hunt for these pills was starting to become a bit comical, and the bus ride to Casablanca was beginning to look more attractive in hindsight! The Canary islands are a major tourist destination for European vacationers and each island and large town has its own personality. German, Irish and British areas are all to be found although the islands are Spanish as is the local language. After enjoying Las Palmas and it's quiet anchorage for several weeks Nomad set sail for the south end of Gran Canaria, again in the relentless search for anti malaria pills. Anchored in a small bay to the east of Pasito Blanco marina, it was an interesting walk along the bottom of a cliff to get to the resort area and then a long hike into the city. In Maspalomas we found the long sought after anti malaria pills after a late evening vist to a clinic where we were told no prescription is required, just go to this certain pharmacy and ask for them. We found it just before closing time and made the purchase that would enable us to safely resume our travels in west Africa. With that mission completed, we stayed a few more days and then set sail for Los Cristianos on Tenerife, where Kris and Lyza had spent some time before and had friends there. At first we anchored near a beach north of the port (anchoring is no longer allowed in the port, an all too common problem in the Canaries) and dinghied in to the beach. After a few days, the port officials came by and told us we had to re anchor to the south of the port in what turned out to be one of the worst anchorages I have ever been in. The anchor was set securely in sixty feet of water to keep us off a rocky beach that the wind blew us towards every afternoon. Rowing into the harbor to land on the beach was often quite challenging as the anchorage was exposed to the open ocean and frequently had three to five foot seas. Los Cristianos was an interesting town to visit for a short time, this area having a strong British presence. There are some hiking trails in the hills above the anchorage offering spectacular views of the coastline. After a couple of weeks in a crowded tourist town with an extremely rough anchorage we were ready to leave. It was not possible to clear out in the port of Los Cristianos. After exploring all possible options, I decided the easiest solution was to take a bus to Santa Cruz, on the other side of the island where clearance formalities were swiftly completed for departure the next day. After a leisurely breakfast Monday morning the boat was secured for sea and we got underway. Within two hours Nomad had cleared the southernmost point of Tenerife and the course was set towards Dakhla Morocco.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SioL9oXM5fO-t8dM2CMB7xFXMba1wxWSKcp-6yy8_UIzOJBC06J3eGByyrUlO0khXJAUQbJeGc1oCmGc8fsureZlVhl0Y0egqvZuYl9W7K9oPbrLC-LywUIRiuNZNInvixfmvqr1i0p9/s1600/10929226_814431715309374_8150569224468317630_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SioL9oXM5fO-t8dM2CMB7xFXMba1wxWSKcp-6yy8_UIzOJBC06J3eGByyrUlO0khXJAUQbJeGc1oCmGc8fsureZlVhl0Y0egqvZuYl9W7K9oPbrLC-LywUIRiuNZNInvixfmvqr1i0p9/s640/10929226_814431715309374_8150569224468317630_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Years Celebration in Arrecife</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carnaval in Las Palmas</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas morning</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Los Cristianos anchorage</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking on Tenerife</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kris and Lyza above Los Cristianos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglM02vihfo32ksXyMxjQEJhPPPv_zffH60Tkz9tRSXy3TJVSZryE5X0p9vnMKw6qWdXLSqi1AU1yPMlJ0f-vmuHx3SVsfMQzkNO36TSA9RmE8TcS5wm2LYwkhyphenhyphenCUOvFdpaEP3Loas5l-CL/s1600/DSCN0279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglM02vihfo32ksXyMxjQEJhPPPv_zffH60Tkz9tRSXy3TJVSZryE5X0p9vnMKw6qWdXLSqi1AU1yPMlJ0f-vmuHx3SVsfMQzkNO36TSA9RmE8TcS5wm2LYwkhyphenhyphenCUOvFdpaEP3Loas5l-CL/s640/DSCN0279.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The path above the anchorage</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad on the far left, Los Cristianos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxylDSiLs1DfpzVhk4MZy0f9xFrgnUmuARjhK82o9iT2M21P53Bl1GcSHHI4-MLpum_8sYEi6PChLdPa1E5TPT9lV5AM5T1PT5q_58a-15EemzL0Ng3gooi0H2GTRmUxuQYIsxKwpPa-1k/s1600/DSCN0359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxylDSiLs1DfpzVhk4MZy0f9xFrgnUmuARjhK82o9iT2M21P53Bl1GcSHHI4-MLpum_8sYEi6PChLdPa1E5TPT9lV5AM5T1PT5q_58a-15EemzL0Ng3gooi0H2GTRmUxuQYIsxKwpPa-1k/s640/DSCN0359.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tenerife over the stern, sailing to Morocco </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTgXRBpxol5O19DhoIKXo7bLIgaoWJP7Ho9r5IS6gdTg4FR85bLmhYX2Pwcd9z1Xux1p-yP7YZ_scAYwDwhUR-P7bqczfDG3SHP2OR95CGDFmB3X0qAJSck0lgoOGfCSUPhMn8U_6R1mp9/s1600/PC271305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTgXRBpxol5O19DhoIKXo7bLIgaoWJP7Ho9r5IS6gdTg4FR85bLmhYX2Pwcd9z1Xux1p-yP7YZ_scAYwDwhUR-P7bqczfDG3SHP2OR95CGDFmB3X0qAJSck0lgoOGfCSUPhMn8U_6R1mp9/s640/PC271305.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrecife sunset<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-50721328277497738042015-08-30T07:10:00.000-07:002015-08-30T07:14:16.116-07:00Tan Tan MoroccoThe port of Tan Tan is near the village of El Quatia with with the town of Tan Tan located several kilometers inland. Upon arrival we were directed to tie to a tug and were met by the usual group of officials to do the clearing in process. Again we were made to feel welcome and there was no"problems" with any of the passports. Later that day one of the military officials that cleared us in stopped by to ask if we wanted a ride into Tan Tan which of course we accepted. We were given a short tour of El Quatia and Tan Tan and shown where to get taxis in and out of town and what not to take pictures of. We had become a bit of a curiosity in the area and were evidently much talked about. All of us were sitting in a shop that we found for refreshments and internet and were surprised when the officials from the port came in to ask us to move the boat so the tug could get out. How they found us that easily in a place we stopped at by chance is still a mystery. Nomad moved to an empty place on the far end of the harbor to watch the manuevers and became a local attraction as a crowd gathered to stare at the boat. The blowing dust and the ever present flies were becoming more troublesome as we headed further south in the Western Sahara. After being sandblasted while walking on the beach we came to understand why people here in the desert favor the the long robes with hoods for protection from the sand and wind.<br />
Since we decided some time ago to make a trip to The Gambia we needed some anti malaria pills and yellow fever vaccine. We searched all over Agadir but the answer was always the same: you must go to this place in Casablanca that was an eight hour bus ride away. Not being interested in sixteen hours on a bus and another huge city to deal with, we learned that it was <br />
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available in the Canary islands so we cleared out of Morocco and set sail for Lanzarote on the twenty fourth of December. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tied to a tug in Tan Tan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beach in Tan Tan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atlantic surf</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tan Tan fishing fleet</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main market street in Tan Tan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saharan sunset, returning from Tan Tan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tan Tan streets</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards the port</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing fleet tied up below the pot's offices</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olives lemons and chickens for sale in El Quatia</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clothes for sale in Tan Tan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Quatia streets</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Quatia mosque</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4maNXcssUnyRCauqkkhVfQA39YIyKk4kSxmWbfQ1oPd7Xn2VmIKDH5cYisX-_0ec3yvVWDhICOqxFja8GSSgjij2OfLeEvwJgID8ndJQkjuNCk8U3yLe4Tszx3ptCSKYkSFSj7iJkPxHs/s1600/PC201204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4maNXcssUnyRCauqkkhVfQA39YIyKk4kSxmWbfQ1oPd7Xn2VmIKDH5cYisX-_0ec3yvVWDhICOqxFja8GSSgjij2OfLeEvwJgID8ndJQkjuNCk8U3yLe4Tszx3ptCSKYkSFSj7iJkPxHs/s640/PC201204.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off road campers</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-27910327035270185692015-08-29T07:13:00.000-07:002015-08-29T07:19:42.585-07:00Sidi Ifni Morocco<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiElHI13cGo59euW1Dby4HZe0laffuHHDii7AAlZbFakUU28qniXIM2CJQ1Lnx8leHvkFRqsVZrXiNhgOmR0MqknM1bI9t_rXGA0mIEStY5b3nONN1t8ORzxx5OWefGlvHIsvvxZV9BChIV/s1600/PC181134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiElHI13cGo59euW1Dby4HZe0laffuHHDii7AAlZbFakUU28qniXIM2CJQ1Lnx8leHvkFRqsVZrXiNhgOmR0MqknM1bI9t_rXGA0mIEStY5b3nONN1t8ORzxx5OWefGlvHIsvvxZV9BChIV/s400/PC181134.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning of the Western Sahara</td></tr>
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As the sun rose over the blue-green coastal waters of Morocco, Nomad was becalmed thirty six miles out of Sidi Ifni.The overnight sail brought a radical change in scenery with the Atlas mountains now out of sight and the beginning of the Western Sahara silhouetted by the sunrise. After enjoying the tranquility of the sunrise, the motor was reluctantly started to ensure our arrival during working hours. The guidebook had only a few details of the harbor plan and none was shown on the chart so we worked our way around the charted shoal in the big Atlantic swell to line up on the harbor entrance and cautiously made our way in past a dredge working in the channel. We were directed to tie up on the wharf behind a tugboat where we were met by the usual group of officials. There was another sailboat tied up ahead of the tug, but it turned out to be a wreck that had been pulled off the beach. We were looking forward to exploring a new area after reading about it in the guidebooks, but it was not to be. After completing the usual paperwork, I had to go to an office to retrieve our passports with the entrance stamps. It was becoming a routine, but time consuming procedure at each port. However there was a undefined "problem" with Kris's Polish passport. It could be fixed in the next port,Tan Tan, but not here. We were given 24 hours to visit Sidi Ifni and then we had to leave. In Tan Tan of course the was no problem -I asked- we are welcome to stay. The officials were quite friendly in Sidi Ifni, even offering the ever present mint tea while doing paperwork but the impression is that they would prefer not to have us here in their harbor,although tourists traveling by land are welcome. Twenty four hours is not much time but we made the most of it walking into town and on the great beach backed by red rock cliffs with the town on top. The sky was beginning to be less blue and more slate grey from the blowing dust brought by the easterly winds blowing off the Sahara. The clear grey sky sky and the bit of blowing sand was just a taste of things to come as we progressed down the African coast. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbu1gy28gBG2ytvRArohyphenhyphenZrd560HJAjExMFxs0FhocFpI4ceTzxjFfTiN6ZUW_eFwRgZ1rQ0Suy9eh3NL42DItAjKQkL_hJzbtdr8dX8Ze5l7ROZKXSsZWt1N1x_VHSdKHNI__yK0p2UA2/s1600/PC191154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbu1gy28gBG2ytvRArohyphenhyphenZrd560HJAjExMFxs0FhocFpI4ceTzxjFfTiN6ZUW_eFwRgZ1rQ0Suy9eh3NL42DItAjKQkL_hJzbtdr8dX8Ze5l7ROZKXSsZWt1N1x_VHSdKHNI__yK0p2UA2/s400/PC191154.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dredging the Sidi Ifni entrance channel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigjXhGiZbjpjBFN-_d8h-9T21FQT5Lx4UsUzYjbU2z601ja5NQzB-9__jqyu5i1x6sg7EFgxQ0vr2NlEfdme_Moz-kQQ2EE9lZz6trZ3CCMG_mYG6UiNUbHQqTRkgDQ2wu4fBAyFdB5DP5/s1600/PC191156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigjXhGiZbjpjBFN-_d8h-9T21FQT5Lx4UsUzYjbU2z601ja5NQzB-9__jqyu5i1x6sg7EFgxQ0vr2NlEfdme_Moz-kQQ2EE9lZz6trZ3CCMG_mYG6UiNUbHQqTRkgDQ2wu4fBAyFdB5DP5/s400/PC191156.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wharf in Sidi Ifni</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sidi Ifni overlooks the Atlantic beaches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx3l6VTFdeJ-iQIB0qSlhwe7ki8CpJkUcbKS3knQGK2gCiE0gNfl9BLqDl3iZ3eokmZ-1q4mPj62VLlrTcrhInjkScdrnn9WLkZfMKLHohZhXVVUAE1lu1X1ORjF7Ofpz8vAoxQe6SmFLY/s1600/PC191189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx3l6VTFdeJ-iQIB0qSlhwe7ki8CpJkUcbKS3knQGK2gCiE0gNfl9BLqDl3iZ3eokmZ-1q4mPj62VLlrTcrhInjkScdrnn9WLkZfMKLHohZhXVVUAE1lu1X1ORjF7Ofpz8vAoxQe6SmFLY/s400/PC191189.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beachcombing on miles of deserted beaches</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1230781252"></span><span id="goog_1230781253"></span><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-48981514415503205692015-08-27T15:01:00.000-07:002015-08-27T15:02:23.507-07:00Agadir Morocco<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAE4yZHhLuV0nvwCJiQA9kYK_2QmWSKPiQsk3R20Z94AUX3GRydPOTOx6oDpSvWi6k5g3UCLry3bG-VA7rLvA4A6Ls0frnn9jD61p7I4_8F01L-rrj5Eay0EACfJbm-KGfWhrYhh5vu44P/s1600/PC141106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAE4yZHhLuV0nvwCJiQA9kYK_2QmWSKPiQsk3R20Z94AUX3GRydPOTOx6oDpSvWi6k5g3UCLry3bG-VA7rLvA4A6Ls0frnn9jD61p7I4_8F01L-rrj5Eay0EACfJbm-KGfWhrYhh5vu44P/s400/PC141106.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agadir from the kasbah</td></tr>
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Nomad arrived in Agadir after a twenty six hour sail from Essaouira that started out with a nice 15-20 breeze that slowly went to calm during the trip with the boat speed down to a couple of knots by then end of the day. It was a good introduction to sailing for Lyza and Kris first trip on the ocean. This was their second trip to Agadir so finding places in town was easier with some local knowledge. The yacht harbor in Agadir with its floating dock was to be the only facility of its kind on Morocco's Atlantic coast with daily, weekly and monthly rates. The next morning we cleared in, again. Morocco requires full clearance in and out every time the boat moves.By the time we left Morocco for the last time my passport had accumulated more than three pages of entry and exit stamps from each port. Agadir had the look and feel of any beach resort town and was not exactly the kind of place I would seek out, but it was the last chance to resupply before heading into the more remote parts of southern Morocco. Agadir is actually a "new" old city as it was nearly completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1960 and has been completely rebuilt, hence it's modern appearance. The kasbah overlooking the town is the only structure that survived the 1960 earthquake and makes for a great hike for a view of the city. We set out cross country from the back of the kasbah to enjoy some of the natural beauty of Morocco after too much city life. The scenery was nice and we got to see a camel ranch and a bee farm. This was to be our last view of the Atlas mountains as our next port would be at the beginning of the Sahara desert.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtxvl2p1CK8yQdq5AUz5WbeG3SZil3S-fwaZ-4YuyYuEDqN9EdxXf3pFljLESjyPufShsgyjeAGY6F0puuY30g3cCWQXS7hzwwlfBnvqSD2kfVQeEjh9kOUvlj27Ii4yV4JjE7bXjcwq1C/s1600/PC141122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtxvl2p1CK8yQdq5AUz5WbeG3SZil3S-fwaZ-4YuyYuEDqN9EdxXf3pFljLESjyPufShsgyjeAGY6F0puuY30g3cCWQXS7hzwwlfBnvqSD2kfVQeEjh9kOUvlj27Ii4yV4JjE7bXjcwq1C/s400/PC141122.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camel ranching</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTweLSyUcnimM9NNwMnWzWGSSZnCdjdZGGDbvMuhkI0L_0plDcHc8qnKBxMxCCvnDK3XKThBgxdQJF_qbVa-epL0x_O2SjL2lVxqtPNKdOELqw2u4r0CdLcvXaALkgPaLeyC4NciIIdYee/s1600/PC141128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTweLSyUcnimM9NNwMnWzWGSSZnCdjdZGGDbvMuhkI0L_0plDcHc8qnKBxMxCCvnDK3XKThBgxdQJF_qbVa-epL0x_O2SjL2lVxqtPNKdOELqw2u4r0CdLcvXaALkgPaLeyC4NciIIdYee/s400/PC141128.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading back to the harbor</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehSqjNIIZhyphenhyphen1wNhD05Kf7P4p1KqPZndCAYj_blxOnE4QmKs4n4dmvXVoDHvGeLZHubDqertsgi9Nr2Eb0_IheicpAlwmOVuTTgwvsXKxTm-3cYIVoocUVf3e0gejzYg3sRFmycH3aguiK/s1600/PC141129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehSqjNIIZhyphenhyphen1wNhD05Kf7P4p1KqPZndCAYj_blxOnE4QmKs4n4dmvXVoDHvGeLZHubDqertsgi9Nr2Eb0_IheicpAlwmOVuTTgwvsXKxTm-3cYIVoocUVf3e0gejzYg3sRFmycH3aguiK/s400/PC141129.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first and only marina for Nomad in Morocco</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-45471829241585076892015-08-24T07:51:00.001-07:002015-08-24T07:51:43.265-07:00Essaouira Morocco<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCixGi6DsVvLwBazMxFSKRGUpfV7UwNyA52yMjDpMrkrs4UDWb-iyX0lLi0UJCXKDObxaqQ02RRZt9IFDF8hipkVwp1fYPCF9Pfi2YDjbH-73ALUj5EAdkWm3NxE7XETcfvE_qfYdnIWhd/s1600/PC061012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCixGi6DsVvLwBazMxFSKRGUpfV7UwNyA52yMjDpMrkrs4UDWb-iyX0lLi0UJCXKDObxaqQ02RRZt9IFDF8hipkVwp1fYPCF9Pfi2YDjbH-73ALUj5EAdkWm3NxE7XETcfvE_qfYdnIWhd/s400/PC061012.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wooden boat building is still done in Morocco</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Four hundred miles is the distance from Madeira to Essaouira Morocco.Not a very long trip as far as ocean voyages go, but arriving in west Africa is like landing in another world. Nomad arrived in the late afternoon and I was able to complete clearing in formalities by sunset. This was a bit of a challenge, as the locals speak mostly French and Berber and all the forms were in French. As I stepped off the boat into the chaos of a busy fishing port, I asked for directions from a local and was taken directly to the office I needed to find. I found the people here friendly, as everywhere in Morocco, and willing to help despite the language barrier.As in all of Morocco, I was not permitted to anchor and had to pay 244 Dirhams, about 22 Euros per day to dock. The next day I went exploring the fort around the harbor and then entered the ancient walled city of Essaouira with its narrow streets and marketplace which is called a souk. This was my introduction to shopping Moroccan style: outside of cafes, bargaining is expected and is quite an art form and every local is a super salesman. The sight and smells of the souk are unforgettable,fresh baked flatbreads, spices, mountains of olives of every kind, pickled lemons and the most amazing olive oil. All this mixed in with shops selling everything from handmade woodwork to clothes and more with every shopkeeper trying to get you to come in for a cup of mint tea and to buy something from them.After a few days of this I was thinking of moving down the coast to the next harbor, intending to explore all the harbors down the coast before heading to the Cape Verde islands. It was here that I met a couple of hitchhikers (one from Texas!) looking for a ride to the Canary islands. I was not planning on going that way, but invited them to stop by the next day to chat. They arrived the next day looking for a place to stay, so I invited them onboard. We got talking over a bottle of Portuguese wine and found we had similar tastes in travelling so Kris and Lyza got invited to a trial run to Agadir, the next port south to see if they could handle the boat life and see how we got along with the possibility of making a trip to The Gambia if it went well. It was a bit of a squeeze getting them in since I have been mostly singlehanded sailing and was using to other cabins for storage. I arrived in Agadir with two new sailors lookiing for adventure on the sea.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlgVLBNBCHxb7YY_ligBiiKFu_J82Rjxie-JYQUp2diqqFGjSHD-YyWAErm0U2d4ENPrs24_vDKLPgrwE18pz8u2Z_u6eS-KA-krsgWAYyI3KuThyr-gFEsRL3Bs_ymVDtB0FtjsuKVpgh/s1600/PC061023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlgVLBNBCHxb7YY_ligBiiKFu_J82Rjxie-JYQUp2diqqFGjSHD-YyWAErm0U2d4ENPrs24_vDKLPgrwE18pz8u2Z_u6eS-KA-krsgWAYyI3KuThyr-gFEsRL3Bs_ymVDtB0FtjsuKVpgh/s400/PC061023.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the old walled part of Essaouira</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish market on the dock</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fortress protecting Essaouira from attcks from the sea</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6agdEiWUlNWCW7695H59OYM3CqUzglXB-6JCShsE7PCoUb4q4v3qQYoJFk29YvmLbL3m8iXylW62V9oAvVNngahQUv4_N4pkx_7aJN4HQtI0XZmXwF-cd6stLcGO60M9HYAoGna9-pJdV/s1600/PC071051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6agdEiWUlNWCW7695H59OYM3CqUzglXB-6JCShsE7PCoUb4q4v3qQYoJFk29YvmLbL3m8iXylW62V9oAvVNngahQUv4_N4pkx_7aJN4HQtI0XZmXwF-cd6stLcGO60M9HYAoGna9-pJdV/s400/PC071051.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nomad on the wharf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGlKhBUvrkSDlA8MbnBBn81LNi1YpQs9EShEyCpMgfz71CoriPFeZPp-IAoShjvamKV72AkkDm3pL9vvZT_v8Jx9ZAgjVF3k7N0Tkau62Q1ltVL80d12OpEmh8axhMOEgwkny2KOAzLqTD/s1600/PC071065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGlKhBUvrkSDlA8MbnBBn81LNi1YpQs9EShEyCpMgfz71CoriPFeZPp-IAoShjvamKV72AkkDm3pL9vvZT_v8Jx9ZAgjVF3k7N0Tkau62Q1ltVL80d12OpEmh8axhMOEgwkny2KOAzLqTD/s400/PC071065.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small boat harbor with the medina in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhA_hnuqP3s5uAtThNoQNWVCPVT2-iAApLkSX1omkxj4Zhl-ZRxNDwJ7mEtlcT7spkXW1Z2djtF3CJvrJCytuInYw3B5A8XluRSH5Q2Y66Hs9v5Gy8LRYEGuS68C0i1g-gTBd-ECl-koM/s1600/PC071073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhA_hnuqP3s5uAtThNoQNWVCPVT2-iAApLkSX1omkxj4Zhl-ZRxNDwJ7mEtlcT7spkXW1Z2djtF3CJvrJCytuInYw3B5A8XluRSH5Q2Y66Hs9v5Gy8LRYEGuS68C0i1g-gTBd-ECl-koM/s400/PC071073.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shopping, Moroccan style</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghgzFM3rJaLVoiqFxnk0B0wAaixhqIuIsjHROFceC6b7orFPQzO0972iPgHtQG8Pgme3fxA6g7QKDTnnCf9j4zzzqxT6jyijfC28FkiIk8zY0h6jMpRNgXyHz8lJS2vsPRGtaGbvWEaD1/s1600/PC071080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghgzFM3rJaLVoiqFxnk0B0wAaixhqIuIsjHROFceC6b7orFPQzO0972iPgHtQG8Pgme3fxA6g7QKDTnnCf9j4zzzqxT6jyijfC28FkiIk8zY0h6jMpRNgXyHz8lJS2vsPRGtaGbvWEaD1/s400/PC071080.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The souk reallycomes alive at night</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-13424415163719388002015-08-21T17:01:00.001-07:002015-08-21T17:01:12.718-07:00Madeira<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnBtjVYFuRt97Dg3oOpLfR4ZLnKtIybzNk6idBKvL71cSzsfFRdcfVWpEj-ypd2VXUNjsI2EGZxjE5Hm1Be-qatnX3OvRbM7r2cM-l6jDkikXWk7uiMeE0e7db6DfGk1aaAXQLxtQMU_W7/s1600/PB260972_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnBtjVYFuRt97Dg3oOpLfR4ZLnKtIybzNk6idBKvL71cSzsfFRdcfVWpEj-ypd2VXUNjsI2EGZxjE5Hm1Be-qatnX3OvRbM7r2cM-l6jDkikXWk7uiMeE0e7db6DfGk1aaAXQLxtQMU_W7/s400/PB260972_1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The North Atlantic getting lumpy</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQsdxWRI_4PQHEEEm250dciyFw0mfdly1mX9H6JjEG7HFtGTfikZEAjDeTIEGA9NKVIQBMZ84FoqHTbqo-A9KZjbQ4GtNQ7kk9qpeGBC8zMqgIwmzEH4ICTZA7zWe2hBCezLnzvueFaViv/s1600/PB280977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQsdxWRI_4PQHEEEm250dciyFw0mfdly1mX9H6JjEG7HFtGTfikZEAjDeTIEGA9NKVIQBMZ84FoqHTbqo-A9KZjbQ4GtNQ7kk9qpeGBC8zMqgIwmzEH4ICTZA7zWe2hBCezLnzvueFaViv/s400/PB280977.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The morning after in the yacht harbor at Funchal</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGxmK6YlQHOr8uSbFlZup4H96S7AQUh8k127xCDjgiz3vRxzzqvwezx2cmdzchLB0akn8YsNokpMZlQ5Va0Vyi25AZxQuDRyz8jow44yHvWn3d4Kpyzl_KQnt9ymtsWbMFQwlaYmUJZ_60/s1600/PB300990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGxmK6YlQHOr8uSbFlZup4H96S7AQUh8k127xCDjgiz3vRxzzqvwezx2cmdzchLB0akn8YsNokpMZlQ5Va0Vyi25AZxQuDRyz8jow44yHvWn3d4Kpyzl_KQnt9ymtsWbMFQwlaYmUJZ_60/s400/PB300990.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The town of Funchal has a spectacular viewof the coast</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Nomad sailed from Praia da Vitoria on the Azorean island of Terciera on the twenty first of November with as good a weather forecast as can be expected <br />this late in the year. I should make Porto Santo Madeira with some 25-30 knot wind on the day before arrival. As always long range forecast are not to be relied upon.<br />Four days out the approaching cold front caught up with me and the winds intensified to a full gale. With the weather rapidly deteriorating, the safety tube on on the windvane's water paddle broke and was hurriedly replaced with a spare in steadily building seas. By 0330 the next morning the seas were as high as the wind generator and some were beginning to break. This is not good when your course has the seas directly on the beam, so the course was changed to put the seas on the quarter. By chance this happened to put my heading directly to the west end of Madeira. Good, I thought to myself conditions should moderate in the lee of the island. It did not work out as I had hoped for with the wind wrapping around the island and coming from directly astern as I headed east along the south shore of the island. The radar had decided that it would reboot itself every couple of minutes, rendering functionally useless for navigation. This would add to the fun of making the harbor in Funchal on a rainy windswept night. After breaking a block in the foresail with only two panels up, I decided to drop all sail and start the engine to help with steering in the seas that were building as I approached the shallower waters near the island. As the seas were becoming steeper, the motor was helpful in keeping the boat from from getting broached even though it was doing about six to seven knots downwind with no sails up. Some caution is needed with this technique. As I was nearing the harbor entrance to Funchal a particularly steep wave was trying to twist the boat around and I applied full throttle with the rudder hard over to stop the turn which worked well, but adding that much power on top of a wave sent me surfing down the front of it with a most amazing acceleration this schooner has ever done! After verifying that this was indeed Funchal by counting seconds on the breakwater light, I turned directly towards shore trying not to lose sight of the light in the driving rain and eventually found my way around the breakwater into the welcome calm of the harbor. With no radar and rain soaked glasses navigation in the harbor was nearly impossible, so I followed the wharf around the perimeter of the basin and eventually found a promising spot to tie up behind a sailing school ship. The next morning the weather settled and I was advised that anchoring that was not allowed in the harbor and that I should move to the small boat harbor quickly before the wind picked up again and made docking difficult.<br />Madeira was a beautiful contrast to the Azorean islands with its high mountain peaks and lush vegetation. Ashore, it was a very cosmopolitan European city set up as a major tourist destination complete with shopping malls and bus tours. It was quiet for the time as the cruise ships were not coming in due to the bad weather. I made some repairs to gear that got damaged on the voyage over here and spent the afternoons hiking around town. When the weather settled in a few days and I awoke to find two cruise ships in the harbor and so many people on the waterfront it was nearly impossible to walk around I knew it was time to leave! After complaining about the high cost of docking here the marina only charged me for three days but the invoice was still for 125 Euros! Next stop: Morrocco.<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-726389656334073490.post-29016750082893856282014-11-15T06:58:00.000-08:002014-11-15T06:58:40.730-08:00Praia da Vitoria, Terciera, Azores<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBGOCYm8qOIu0UCZTHqVbXdAXTm27ALrunpvAKHbKtWacd8_fJQNALpatuiiIQAXxnVtwKCLkcsNJKk9I2399ZwL9U0Y9Wrd9Ujmd12zrIALERQS-ByKXhZfBOCdajH3qPgJ-AvcErAnbo/s1600/PA240841.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBGOCYm8qOIu0UCZTHqVbXdAXTm27ALrunpvAKHbKtWacd8_fJQNALpatuiiIQAXxnVtwKCLkcsNJKk9I2399ZwL9U0Y9Wrd9Ujmd12zrIALERQS-ByKXhZfBOCdajH3qPgJ-AvcErAnbo/s320/PA240841.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Praia streets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Nomad
has been in the Azores for over a month now, most of the time in Praia
da Vitoria on the Island of Terciera. I caught up on some much needed
maintenance as this is the first time I have really stopped to work on
the boat since leaving the Dominican Republic. I had sailed here with
the intention of anchoring in the harbor, but the surge in the anchorage
made launching the dinghy a hazardous operation. The marina transient
rates here for 12 to 15 meter boats is about $10 USD per day including
water, electric and wifi. Stay for a month and get 2 free days. This is a
bit of a boat trap, as people stop in for a week or two and end up
staying months or years! Walking around the marina one day, I noticed a
familiar boat, it was a couple I had met in the Caribbean earlier this
year and they are planning to settle here permanently. Everything in town is within walking distance and the is bus service all over the island including to Angra do Heroismo, on the south coast. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuGWEGT5g8BTjXo7uXbfmueK-sh-ouG6Z1GGRYZrqyxtKiqcC3ie4lz5RN8GxnEXFNlTHuahUVz_lodSxSg7sWYFzSF6wJJ3AbnXRQ5M4N-SFscppmDcR0F2KZINAr7pwNEQcu0T2vb3i/s1600/PA240844.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuGWEGT5g8BTjXo7uXbfmueK-sh-ouG6Z1GGRYZrqyxtKiqcC3ie4lz5RN8GxnEXFNlTHuahUVz_lodSxSg7sWYFzSF6wJJ3AbnXRQ5M4N-SFscppmDcR0F2KZINAr7pwNEQcu0T2vb3i/s320/PA240844.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old church in Praia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Azores are an intriguing place with a lot of European history ,
having been settled since the early 1400's although is is thought that
the islands were know of much earlier. The Azores has been a stopping
place for sailors from the time of Columbus, Labrador and Cabot through
Slocum and is still the stop of choice for cruisnig sailors crossing the Atlantic.<br />
It
is mid November and the weather is beginning to change into the winter
pattern here so it is time to get back to sailing again and head a
little further south.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1t0DsookCAI8jnR3Y4jG4S5muAx68X2mLXDOGEFeJnBvFq9T6TiOhzQeM_CcY_ZfkDBAnLRI7a-WTbec0Bmsxr4BnP6ZEUiG9hZQwKGulGlNCBwQbQjPc48ZmUEe2Ogg_rXITBdXarkvo/s1600/PA210829.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1t0DsookCAI8jnR3Y4jG4S5muAx68X2mLXDOGEFeJnBvFq9T6TiOhzQeM_CcY_ZfkDBAnLRI7a-WTbec0Bmsxr4BnP6ZEUiG9hZQwKGulGlNCBwQbQjPc48ZmUEe2Ogg_rXITBdXarkvo/s320/PA210829.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very narrow entrance into the marina</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1KtQE-h6lboHLysoBJFPdNAwrwI3VRiNPcI40DV388O-c39Ioo7i4fHRb39rZ51LBGEIc10JhpSHhB6D31q14sl58iT_WJgnZyEd3wtgY2BYfcbrm1bks-nRS7JQA7OrFJhN3piiS60o/s1600/PA210834.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1KtQE-h6lboHLysoBJFPdNAwrwI3VRiNPcI40DV388O-c39Ioo7i4fHRb39rZ51LBGEIc10JhpSHhB6D31q14sl58iT_WJgnZyEd3wtgY2BYfcbrm1bks-nRS7JQA7OrFJhN3piiS60o/s320/PA210834.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfront walk, Praia da Vitoria</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvZ_ZN4VceMU6C0kYRWZBfMlifdpxbbZ0xfQsRLFurlUUG-Ry6Cqmleg_FHwUjxR_4oOge_si4UYpqFiB4hQ6_50CB4fiIsAn-kt7JXq8hJhm7qafS_SsKvC2PLRQDNJ_JHjzqB88xwBqn/s1600/PA300850.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvZ_ZN4VceMU6C0kYRWZBfMlifdpxbbZ0xfQsRLFurlUUG-Ry6Cqmleg_FHwUjxR_4oOge_si4UYpqFiB4hQ6_50CB4fiIsAn-kt7JXq8hJhm7qafS_SsKvC2PLRQDNJ_JHjzqB88xwBqn/s320/PA300850.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Streets of Angra do Heroismo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp-Dd0xAoxUdURyA1Np4P7AJUknFaBInunSX_5pRiX7RiLhrMxknRGCfsWzRNHp0MjpT8hr7Semc6ZrtGE2Ts1UboXyTNizK1FbSAarzuV0R3n_TOqHWpcU_pZVvMP3EPmn_sMGEtpoyE4/s1600/PA300858.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp-Dd0xAoxUdURyA1Np4P7AJUknFaBInunSX_5pRiX7RiLhrMxknRGCfsWzRNHp0MjpT8hr7Semc6ZrtGE2Ts1UboXyTNizK1FbSAarzuV0R3n_TOqHWpcU_pZVvMP3EPmn_sMGEtpoyE4/s320/PA300858.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Town square, Angra</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrTidSeMyb-j85bDRfuzkKibi0QyI1nG_bA5xm7OndaGoAZC0taIsITrfvDeVW-1r7LGPW7dPCLhVcS0luy2-1FiJVm9OsvkxCShjmEhGndJv_Ylt-nnBxat8OOYJTt_jIkK_I5dMmqvNq/s1600/PA300861.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrTidSeMyb-j85bDRfuzkKibi0QyI1nG_bA5xm7OndaGoAZC0taIsITrfvDeVW-1r7LGPW7dPCLhVcS0luy2-1FiJVm9OsvkxCShjmEhGndJv_Ylt-nnBxat8OOYJTt_jIkK_I5dMmqvNq/s320/PA300861.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina with anchorage space outside, Angra</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfj33k8HaLvfpUbfwBbFiLTIowoPPxXEJTpUpi9r4HF3q9E0EhTPE_sGq0Qx168XT5AHhefUUQR6JnTiLNgUvrLnBk3AgXWeEwWM1ipWdT_5toNQQlBAb2PaETmlbQh-BfufndgusNt-9f/s1600/PA300864.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfj33k8HaLvfpUbfwBbFiLTIowoPPxXEJTpUpi9r4HF3q9E0EhTPE_sGq0Qx168XT5AHhefUUQR6JnTiLNgUvrLnBk3AgXWeEwWM1ipWdT_5toNQQlBAb2PaETmlbQh-BfufndgusNt-9f/s320/PA300864.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old church, Angra</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6x9bgf-UrZYd-XIh0axQ7RTp1qeDMzBgWGCvYyy1N3v76aDssEbF_UzSehuKLmPEK9hT9YsAv_wbtFaFjXQpdTKOZZ3Tp-ta5jjnAHsAqj-2yuUOXBd2Tc4vIzTBdMaiDwb5l-G4mjVDW/s1600/PA300866.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6x9bgf-UrZYd-XIh0axQ7RTp1qeDMzBgWGCvYyy1N3v76aDssEbF_UzSehuKLmPEK9hT9YsAv_wbtFaFjXQpdTKOZZ3Tp-ta5jjnAHsAqj-2yuUOXBd2Tc4vIzTBdMaiDwb5l-G4mjVDW/s320/PA300866.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garden in Angra</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR01sdrDVNWdZylXXM3DQo1wnecKl-nOkFduOs5sVfXJ7ypCNnr3CUw2kGu7a9DNRwBxJ__EW-kBaZJqmsgFXYyqdT9XoWAt53kzJ11vxyil7A8qxfzxMvTmUzHr7vptDnit2eGyxLbs8E/s1600/PA300867.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR01sdrDVNWdZylXXM3DQo1wnecKl-nOkFduOs5sVfXJ7ypCNnr3CUw2kGu7a9DNRwBxJ__EW-kBaZJqmsgFXYyqdT9XoWAt53kzJ11vxyil7A8qxfzxMvTmUzHr7vptDnit2eGyxLbs8E/s320/PA300867.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angra, more gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZKY_ffjQ3sJijY7Tvr6bgLTzDZq-HObMMTs6J7DKfyBLKrVv4s1ksbPf5H0xpqdAHzATysUFTQCvZKnlrwcCgIhigk2qHqgP9lcVcO4S38r8YN5XWihbjsiP5Qhsv6Mk9dXZRcTWQEIf/s1600/PB020878.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZKY_ffjQ3sJijY7Tvr6bgLTzDZq-HObMMTs6J7DKfyBLKrVv4s1ksbPf5H0xpqdAHzATysUFTQCvZKnlrwcCgIhigk2qHqgP9lcVcO4S38r8YN5XWihbjsiP5Qhsv6Mk9dXZRcTWQEIf/s320/PB020878.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up the stairs to the monument behind the Marina </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgORvZs3scsTt87CHADvB33t8atFalvkMQJN2_Bp3lJDBCfDOvamVRaw467cvfyfUZ-u1MCEMwlmHmSnpJTinU8QfWqRWwcRyPirCgklQrfIiys0GprdEfEbaoLuKnuLzdIbsbF7t1Q6X9X/s1600/PB020883.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgORvZs3scsTt87CHADvB33t8atFalvkMQJN2_Bp3lJDBCfDOvamVRaw467cvfyfUZ-u1MCEMwlmHmSnpJTinU8QfWqRWwcRyPirCgklQrfIiys0GprdEfEbaoLuKnuLzdIbsbF7t1Q6X9X/s320/PB020883.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down, halfway to the top</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1blax7sQ8DFlM_SFH1SdEY3Rw9MAQJ3n9iRfnklad-w8HmX1E9laS6kK-svCpGLb9Yaqten2xWMKU6kvVFlUj7E7tGeltnlfN7-iYqGSCgF_LjusUo0VflroAT3__KFkaifl4UHC5Lr6M/s1600/PB020899.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1blax7sQ8DFlM_SFH1SdEY3Rw9MAQJ3n9iRfnklad-w8HmX1E9laS6kK-svCpGLb9Yaqten2xWMKU6kvVFlUj7E7tGeltnlfN7-iYqGSCgF_LjusUo0VflroAT3__KFkaifl4UHC5Lr6M/s320/PB020899.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over Praia from the monument</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5EqqLPdBpQmsi22tFXNxZ_RdZ8MKzWyFDc1VsUszXTKryeh19T_OyvJNi8jVHPjDfd_BBHg1jERgH64JzktNSFyzntUfhJrJt9Jfi8XTEw51_GK-BrIjqfljU6vz6-hq6LVHO4gnR5Ar/s1600/PB020901.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5EqqLPdBpQmsi22tFXNxZ_RdZ8MKzWyFDc1VsUszXTKryeh19T_OyvJNi8jVHPjDfd_BBHg1jERgH64JzktNSFyzntUfhJrJt9Jfi8XTEw51_GK-BrIjqfljU6vz6-hq6LVHO4gnR5Ar/s320/PB020901.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Praia da Vitoria</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com